Stone Grey - Into the Fray


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I'm thinking I'll use 1/4" baltic birch with an extra layer added where I'll be screwing cabinets to them. Any opinions?
Hi, steel or aluminum track would be much safer, anchored to the main pillars.


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Got the floor screwed and glued.
Now on to the ceiling.
I'm using the same 1/2" plywood to run length wise strips along the ceiling. Fastening the strips to the ribs with 1/4x20 screws into rivnuts. I used the factory holes (had to enlarge them a bit to get the rivnuts in) because they all have a dimple that will allow the rivnuts to be recessed so the wood strips will sit flat on the ribs.


The rib at the B-pillar is under the front headliner so I screwed and glued some blocks of wood the screw the strips into.
You will also see in this picture the headliner is such that with the 1/4" ply on the ceiling it will be pretty well flush with it, making for a nice transition. The gap where the headliner curves away from the wall will be covered by an overhead cabinet on the drivers side. In the PS we are thinking of a cabinet over the door as well. I'm not sure what I'll do with the B-pillar trim yet. It will probably have to be trimmed somewhat.



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Oh yeah.
We put new tires on.
The van came with 245/75/16 Continental Van Contact winter tires.
Since most of our driving will not be on winter roads we wanted a 4 season tire.
Our old van had the Falken Wildpeak AT3 and we got excellent performance from them.
Quite, awesome in the snow and off road and wore really well, so we went for them again.
Up sized slightly to 235/85/16 adding an extra inch or so of ground clearance.
Tall and skinny.



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I got a small problem dealt with during the week.
The rear door pillars have the wires that go to the back lights and the door on the outside.I wanted to run them inside the pillars for a clean pillar that will take a flat finished panel. I'll have an access panel there in case I need to access those connections.
Passenger side went through and existing hole and I drilled a new hole in the DS pillar and installed a grommet.
Not sure why MB did this to begin with.

Several other threads address this and I followed instructions from @Hodakaguy in his build thread.



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Today's big project was to install the Maxxair fan.
It's going in the front because that is where we will be cooking, and I don't like noise when I sleep.
We also have the opening bunk windows in the rear for good flow through the van when the fan is on.


I put the ceiling panel back in to mark the hole for the trim ring.


And there we have it.



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I need at least one other hole in roof. I will need to get power from the solar panels inside the van.
So, of the many wire glands available I picked an aerodynamic one.

The placement will bring the wires into van above my utility chase next to my shower.

It was a pretty simple procedure.
Mark the spot, drill the 1 1/4" hole and deburr, paint the raw metal edge and seal in the grommet.
I then fed the wires through the wire seals in the gland and laid a bead of sealant and then screwed it in place.
Finished off by putting sealant over the screw holes.

The gland was slightly wider than the space between ribs so I shaved off an 1/8" or so on each side.

You may also note that I had the roof rack powder coated bring the total cost of it to just shy of CDN$500.



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2017 4x4 144 Cargo
Did you do anything to the lower walls in regards to sound deadening and insulation or just left the Crew Van stuff in ?
most road noise seems to come thru the floor, wheel wells and lower walls...
no intention of having an awning ?? they are worth their weight in gold in my opinion..


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All the walls got the Kitmat sound dampener over the thinner factory applied dampener, then 2" of Havelock wool insulation and will be skinned with 1/4" Baltic birch. The original factory lower wall panels were sold. I retained the factory door panels. I haven't decided what will happen to the door finishes yet.


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I really am starting to question my choice of the Havelock wool as insulation.

I chose it because is a natural product, it doesn't require a vapour barrier and it is less than half the cost of the 3m stuff.

But after driving a few trips to the lumber yard etc. the batts are sagging down. I can only imagine what 1000 miles of Baja washboard will do.

I did use a small spray of contact glue but maybe I need to do the whole batt.

I don't know. My window to change my decision is closing.



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Moving along.
I'm working on the full height cabinets. They are the major components of the interior.
Since there are no straight walls or ceilings, and the van isn't perfectly level, the only baseline I can rely on is the flat floor.
So I built a 6' long square out of scrap plywood that I can use to get measurements.
By clamping my framing square to it at 90 degrees I can get a free standing square.


The first cabinet I made was for the fridge and toaster oven.
Under the fridge will be one drawer and under that part of the water tank.

I cut this piece of chip board close to the right curve and then screwed a scrap of plywood to the exact curve to get a template for the cabinet gables.


In the interest of saving interior space I sacrificed an inch or so of insulation to get the fridge into the wall cavity for the top several inches.
I still need to cut out the notch for the water tank and to cut in holes to allow for air circulation around the fridge.
The wall curves in about 6" from bottom to top.

I have the toilet/shower cabinet mocked up to give myself and my wife a sense of the space.
It sure gets small in there fast when you start adding cabinets.


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I was laying under the van today pondering placement for my front door steps and Decided to explore the fueling options for my diesel furnace.

Where do you pull fuel from if you want to use the stock fuel tank?


This under the driver's seat. The small line with the yellow connector feeds my auxiliary Espar coolant heater.
The rest of the small lines, I have no idea.


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Hi, you can put a Tee in the Espar line before the Espar pump.
Don't mess with the line to the engine.


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They are a generic version of the more expensive Bully steps and are half the price.
They come with some universal install hardware. I will have to supplement the provided hardware with a 1 1/4" blocks and 3" bolts where it attaches on the lip and will use 5/8" rivnuts for the upper connection.
Once I have the extra parts it should be a hour long install for both sides.

I am looking at an electric step for the slider but haven't decided on a particular brand or style yet.
I'm keeping an eye out for used stock steps that some people seem to not like and are removing.
They are heavy and shipping will be expensive and problematic though.

I don't like fixed running boards as they stick down too far.
These steps at the front will be about the same level as the splash guards and are pretty well half way between the ground and the door well step.


Well-known member
Any idea what size hose that is? Probably something metric.
Recent discussion for a 2018 diesel:

I am looking at an electric step for the slider but haven't decided on a particular brand or style yet.
These look nice... There's a couple threads here about installation.
AMP Powersteps TUSTIN CA - Best Power Running Boards & Electric Truck Side Steps & Power Boards | AMP Research

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