Upper Awning Windows - cracks anyone?

Hotratz

Member
Wondering if anyone has had any issues with cracks forming along the perimeter of the interior side plexiglass windows? As you all know our windows consist of two layers with a curved purple tinted exterior, contoured and trapezoidal in shape, and an interior rectangular clear piece bonded to it. The cracks I have are in the clear panel and run parallel to the long edges within the curved area mostly on the bottom edge. Likely you wouldn't notice these cracks unless you were looking closely. My concern is these cracks could easily propagate into the visible areas. I'm guessing these are not uncommon problems.

It seems to me that to mitigate further spreading small holes should be drilled at the ends of the cracks and then use some sort of specialty low viscosity plexiglass adhesive that can fill the cracks through capillary actiion. Otherwise, I have no idea.

Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks.
 

CaptnALinTiverton

xT1N Westfalia
Mine have longitudinal cracks that seemingly have not gotten substantially worst through the years. It might well be a function of hot climate where mostly docked or if often parked on a hot day with shades closed.

AL
 

Hotratz

Member
What type of plastic are the windows composed of? I presume some type of Plexiglass. I wonder if the exterior purple Plexi is the same as the clear bubble interior Plexi? Is the clear crosslinked?

I'm doing some research into what type of bonding/welding adhesive is best. Ignore all the crap from Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Need a commercial grade professional solvent/cement. So far I have found something called Weld-On 4 which is a water-thin solvent/cement which seems appropriate though use for cross-linked acrylic is not recommended. An important factor to consider is the tendency for "blushing" which is the formation of a foggy whiteness that forms around the bond due to moisture absorption. This #4 stuff is blush resistant. Anyhoo....
 

Kiltym

Active member
Just a data point. I tried a commercial solvent/adhesive on the large side awning window multiple times, but it never was 100% successful. Not sure if the material is the same, but the crack would flex enough somehow (temp change probably) to break the bond. I used a water thin solvent, and drilled a small hole at the end. I did not have much luck.
 

Kiltym

Active member
I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TCUJ7A8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1YLSW7UF6UU3X&psc=1 on the cracks.

And I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046768VS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A10RWI7IMZFD50&psc=1 on the holes I drilled.

For me, the hole did not work permanently. The first hole did work for about 6 months, then the crack started creeping away from the hole. I drilled more holes (at the end of new crack), but none worked to stop the crack 100%. Which means either the hole was not big enough, or the flex on the crack was too big.

Your situation may be different. But for me, window replacement was the only choice. I would try it though. $20 is way cheaper then a new window if it works.
 

Hotratz

Member
I just ordered that exact product.

I imagine that the stresses are greater on your large window vs. the smaller upper ones. The holes are tricky - clean cuts are a must as any imperfections, chips, etc. can seed another crack. And with the thermal expansion of the material and internal stresses already present from manufacturing...
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
1. Track down manufacturer info.

I think the labels on the upper windows say Seitz (although originally may have been Bonocar as Seitz bought Bonocar, then later Dometic bought Seitz). Googling Seitz windows seem to get primarily acrylic for their windows (but not specifically our window).

I wonder if there is a symbol or code for type of material?

2. Acrylic versus Polycarbonate

Googling how to tell differences, and polycarbonate is supposed to have a blue hue or tint on the edges while acrylic is clear. Doesn't help much when upper windows are tinted purple.

Also, polycarbonate is supposed to yellow with age.

So it could be acrylic is the preferred and likely choice?

3. Replacements

If you track down replacements, might suggest materials folks like to use for windows. Doesn't mean that originals are same materials.

Sonic got a replacement fixed one in acrylic from Fremont. There's a James Cook owner who was making replacements, but I don't remember what material. There's a guy in Spain making replacements.
 

Hotratz

Member
It seems the most vulnerable part of those windows is the interior side while the exterior is durable as its thicker and has no penetrations. I imagine re-creating the interior component by making a mold and using a vacuum former with the appropriate material. Trick would be removing the damaged plexiglass interior piece cleanly and without harming the exterior side. I think possible but perhaps time consuming. There's a maker-space with everything I need for such a project down the street from where I live. Since I've now got a replacement thanks to Robert Foster I may attempt it with my original broken one at some point.

I would imagine the guy in Spain charges a pretty penny + shipping overseas and risk of damage, etc. More fun and rewarding to make my own.
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Hotratz:

Some other threads which might be of some use as you consider making new windows:

Photos of a DIYer--coffeholic/Eric on James Cook Forum making some. 3mm acrylic.


US Westy folks looking around. Tarpondale apparently made his own:







Hollygirl used plexiglass to close off window and a decorative bent layer:


 
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I did make one to replace the passenger side which blew out . luckily we saw it cartwheeling down side of road and recovered the hardware including the top hinge . its a process to make one which includes a large oven to heat the plexi for shaping . I could walk anyone thru the steps to do it . tools needed are jig saw , table saw, and a commercial size pizza oven, I also used the weld on 4 solvent, which is a real PIA to work with as it evaporates fast and is much thinner than water
 

hollygirl

Member
These are our sliding upper windows. We finally decided it was time to do it after losing the last one after leaving it open. Ordered them through MotionWindows, which now has the pattern to make them. My husband and I were able to install them.
 

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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Thanks Hollygirl! The following is a cut and paste from an email response from Jeff Kemp at (360) 622-3322 | jeff@motionwindows.com The second email from Jeff was just the pdf instructions on measuring and how to order--presumably, they have Hollygirl's measurements of the windows.


An owner of a 2004/2005 Airstream Westfalia with a fiberglass top and two upper windows posted that she was able to get replacement windows from you. A screenshot of her posting is below, and a link to the group as well.

1. What model windows did she get?

It looks like this customer ordered the Series 1100 which is our most basic sliding window used in a variety of applications. The one thing to note regarding this model, it is not available with a screen. If you would like a screen for your slider, then you’ll want to spec the RV Elite Series 1600.

  1. What is the cost (she mentioned the winter sale)?
We custom manufacture each window to order and I will follow this email with another walking you through this process. We are currently running a 20% sale through the end of January.

  1. What other options are available?
See the next email.

  1. May I post your answers onto our forum for other owners?
Absolutely.
 

sprinter_wy

New member
These are our sliding upper windows. We finally decided it was time to do it after losing the last one after leaving it open. Ordered them through MotionWindows, which now has the pattern to make them. My husband and I were able to install them.
Can I ask how much each of these windows was? I need to replace my right side upper bunk window...
 
Hey all,

I am a dumbass, and managed to hit a tree branch while parking a few weeks ago -- broke the passenger-side bunk window. I went ahead and contacted Raymond ("Dray" in Romania from the post above -- he's also posted on the James Cook / Sprinter Westfalia groups on Facebook). He sent out a pair of his bunk windows, which I installed yesterday. I just want to report back to the group that I had a good experience and that Raymond's are perfect replacements for our originals. For my van at least, the grey color is also much preferred to the purple ones.

Speaking of the purple ones: I now have a driver's side window, and the packaging from my new ones sitting in my garage. The window has some cracks on the inner window near the bottom seam and some grey paint overspray on the inside of the shell, but is functional and without any major issues. $200 + shipping and an address and I will drop it off at UPS for you.
 

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