Which aftermarket Turbocharger to go with?

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
The short version: I'm taking the owner and lead mechanic at Collie Auto in San Rafael at his word. He used to work for Mercedes on their engines, apparently. I am fairly early in my learning process about diesels and NCV3s in general but I'm working hard to learn as much as I can as quickly as I can.

Longer Version: I took it into the shop because I purchased the vehicle planned non-operational. Previous owner was working on it to get it up to snuff/road worthy again. He decided he was done with the project due to life/covid/moving/several reasons and sold to me.
He replaced:
1. Catalytic convertor
2. EGR
3. Radiator
4. Air intake resonator
5. DPF
6. Engine mount

I'm continuing the work to get it on the road as my adventure-mobile, potential full time living quarters for a few months at a time.

The van has check engine light on, intermittently. It starts alright. It won't exceed roughly 2500rpm max while driving, nor 60mph on flat roads. This seems to indicate limp home mode, which Collie corroborated.

The codes read from the vehicle by Collie are as follows:
"#2359, #2089 AND #2510 FOR BOOST PRESSURE TOO HIGH AND TURBO WASTE GATE MALFUNCTION. ALSO, EXHAUST
BACK PRESSURE SENSOR MALFUNCTION IS CURRENT. THE TURBO AND EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE SENSOR WILL NEED
REPLACEMENT TO RESOLVE THESE ISSUES."

The owner/mechanic at Collie was confident a new turbocharger is needed. I'm actually getting a 2nd opinion via a full inspection/diagnostic at CK Auto in Santa Rosa at the moment, but I anticipate it'll be a similar recommendation. I'll have them install a new turbo if need be.
Are you sure that you are getting a "Boost Pressure Too High"? If you really do, there is another possibility to consider. Boost pressure too high can be caused by a bad actuator, bad turbo, or a malfunctioning intake manifold pressure sensor by reading/sending a wrong value to the ECU. So you might look at the intake manifold pressure sensor if you are really getting the boost pressure too high.

It would be helpful to know the sub-code for the p2359. P2359-001 means boost pressure too low on the CDI4 control module. P2359-002 or 003 can mean something else...
 
UPDATE:

Wow. So I received my aftermarket turbo actuator and installed it for shits and giggles, to see if it is indeed the problem while I still wait for the replacement orange turbo seal...and....

Holy crap it worked. Actuator and vane seems to be opening and closing great. In stepping on the gas while in park, the engine revs up way past 2300 rpm. I then clear my engine codes and take the van for a test drive. Right as I start driving I can tell this thing is wayy more responsive.

I head to the highway entrance. I step on the accelerator to merge and the van IMMEDIATELY starts responding. It shoots up past 2300RPM, climbing way higher and successfully shifting gears with seeming ease. I drove it for 20 miles or so at speeds ranging from 40mph to 80mph.

Holy hell. I just replaced the actuator for about 100 bucks. That's kind of better than the $4000 OR SO the shops wanted to replace the turbo. Talk about a blunt instrument...

Ok so in checking my readiness monitors to inch towards smog check, I see that the EGR is not ready. I've gone down the rabbithole of research on this a bit and I'm a little nervous it may never be 'ready' and here in California, I understand thats a no-no in the past 2 years. We'll see. (I've also seen reports of people getting a GDE tune as the only way to resolve this.)

There is another issue now that I believe was masked by the first turbo issue; a new engine light has come on.
Code P2A00: O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1

Now I'm learning all about how to diagnose these O2 sensors... I would love some help/input here. It is worth noting that I am still waiting on the orange turbo seal replacement and I understand Exhaust pressure can have an effect on this. Should be here sometime today.

I would also like to check resistance and voltages on the sensor connection but need to find the relevant info for that.
2007 Dodge Sprinter 3500 V6 3.0L

I was told by a friend to see if I can monitor my fuel trim as well. Unfortunately I dont believe I can do that with my icarsoftMBII or my bluedriver.
I am planning on sending my icarsoftMBii back to amazon in the near future. I have an Autel AP200 Maxi arriving today as well.
 

sailquik

Well-known member
Something that's missing in this scenario is the fact that Mercedes Benz Authorized Sprinter dealers will not replace just the turbocharger
or the turbocharger actuator.
They insist (and perhaps Collie does as well) that the turbocharger and the turbocharger actuator are a matched set and that when Garrett manufactures or reconditions a turbocharger they test both the turbo and the actuator together to achieve very specific turbo performance.
Also, have you investigated the cost, at an authorized Mercedes Benz Sprinter dealer for a Factory/Garrett remanufactured turbocharger/actuator set.
It's possible to look at your OEM Data Card, by the VIN # of your
Sprinter to see if the correct turbocharger/actuator part number has
been upgraded/replaced by a newer (hopefully better) unit.
I just looked at the Daimler Int'l Parts Database for a turbo and actuator for a 2012 OM-642 Sprinter engine and the original Part Number has been superseded twice.
Roger
 

chads

Member
2006 sprinter 303,000 mi low to no oil consumption.
I noticed tonight on the way home that there is a hissing sound near the turbo side. It is not related to rpm only throttle/load.
When its pulling hard it will hiss/sounds like a leak etc.
I ran 60 miles into the wind pulling trailer with a small tractor w loader and hoe with a considerable load of tools and supplies inside likely pushing all load limits. She seemed a little low on power tonight but the boost gauge would go to 18 or 19 on the hills etc.
For the last couple of months I have been hearing noises/rattle/scratching sound, sort of thought it was a alternator or water pump bearing going out but have noticed it will start the noise at a a distinct time every start up like 10 -15 sec delay.
I pulled over and noticed considerable oil leaking all over the pressure hoses and the lower radiator. Also on the other side near the sensors on the drivers side was very wet there.
I pulled the intake hose and noticed considerable play in the turbo shaft. guessing under an 1/16" but sort of hard to quantify.
The blades look to be really close to the edge and sort of look like they have been rubbing but having never seen a new one so I have nothing to compare to. I don't want to change it unless it needs it but I guess I need to know how much is too much play,

I am thinking tomorrow to make a pipe up with a air chuck that I can put 15 psi on the intake side to look for leaks. I did not get a good number for boost that it starts the noise but thinking it was around 12-15 boost on my scangauge.
Any help would be great.
THanks
Chad

I think I will start a new thread too.
 

NightKitty

New member
My 2011 2500 went into limp mode. The scanner is reading both high and low charge pressure codes. Additionally, there is "charge pressure control is faulty" code. Does anyone know what will cause this? The van has about 260,000 miles with the original turbo, the seals on the turbo hoses have been replaced recently. But the hose connecting to the intercooler does leak some oil (pics attached), which I figured is normal for a turbo at this age.
 

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The Garrett turbochargers are very reliable. The reason you may not get many answers is because not many owners need to replace the turbo.


There have been numerous threads where an owner was told that they needed to replace the Garrett turbocharger only to find that a replacement didn't solve the problem. As Cheyenne suggests, be certain that your turbocharger is actually the problem.

:2cents: vic
Vic, quick question, have you found anyone replacing the turbo actuators on 3.0 turbos. I was wondering if you know anything about actuators for eurparts-sd, the rotomaster ones they carry.
 

OffroadHamster

Well-known member
I see this is mostly resolved for op, but for future parties: I would never replace factory turbo(s) with anything other than a factory unit, a turbo i rebuild myself, or one from a reputable builder (Blouch, FP, Garrett, Borg Warner etc).

A remanufactured unit from the common establishements is worth the negative value of an engine replacement. Basically the true cost of a Cardone etc is its part cost plus a $10K engine replacement when its compressor wheel lets go and sends shrapnel into your engine.
 

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