Fuel rail pressure exceeded - error code P2047

Lambertkl

Lambertkl

New member
Hi, I am new to the Sprinter van community. I just bought a T1N 2005 Sprinter Van but realized there’s an issue with it. The first long trip I took I had a problem 3 hours into the trip. It occurred driving up a very steep hill, when the check engine light came on and about 10 seconds later the vehicle lost about 50% of its power.

I checked the code at my uncles shop. First we got a low pressure DTC. Then we got a “Fuel rail pressure exceeded” code P2047

The code constantly reoccurs on steep hills, then the vehicle is sent into “limp home mode” and I lose almost all my power. Once I reset the error code the power returns.

I replaced the fuel pressure sensor and it hasn’t worked. Same codes.
 
Cheyenne

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Have you checked the turbo plumbing for boost leaks, this is the most likely cause of low pressure or under pressure codes. And then random other codes get thrown as the engine goes into LHM.

Keith.
 
autostaretx

autostaretx

Erratic Member
When the Sprinter detects that it's not getting the boost it expects ... it simply stops trying
(until you turn off the engine). Next time it's willing to boost again ... until it can't.

As everyone else is saying: look for leaks.
I located mine by finding evidence of oil spray (slightly baked on) in the engine area ... and then tracing where the spray was coming from.
(if you have an MB plastic resonator between the turbo and the first fat rubber hose, a common spot is a crack under the "lid" or a poor sealing job of lid-to-body)

Others find their leaks hiding out of sight under the bends.
A truly tiny leak can be fine in "normal" conditions, but once you start getting above 25 psi MAP (manifold absolute pressure ... equivalent to 10 psi boost) those cracks can open enough for the Sprinter to notice. (mine would trigger at 27 psi).
Live-time readouts (like a ScanGauge) can let you monitor things like MAP as you drive, and reveal patterns.

25 psi MAP is about 60 to 65 mph on a flat highway. Go up a hill and the boost increases.

--dick
 
2020sprint

2020sprint

New member
Lambertkl said:
Hi, I am new to the Sprinter van community. I just bought a T1N 2005 Sprinter Van but realized there’s an issue with it. The first long trip I took I had a problem 3 hours into the trip. It occurred driving up a very steep hill, when the check engine light came on and about 10 seconds later the vehicle lost about 50% of its power.

I checked the code at my uncles shop. First we got a low pressure DTC. Then we got a “Fuel rail pressure exceeded” code P2047

The code constantly reoccurs on steep hills, then the vehicle is sent into “limp home mode” and I lose almost all my power. Once I reset the error code the power returns.

I replaced the fuel pressure sensor and it hasn’t worked. Same codes.
Click to expand...
I am currently chasing a P2047(max) and P2017(minimum) in my T1N. One time it went into LHM and today it wouldn't restart hot for about 10 minutes. Both times after clearing codes it starts and runs fine. LMK if you come across anything.
 
jrod5150

jrod5150

Well-known member
2020sprint said:
I am currently chasing a P2047(max) and P2017(minimum) in my T1N. One time it went into LHM and today it wouldn't restart hot for about 10 minutes. Both times after clearing codes it starts and runs fine. LMK if you come across anything.
Click to expand...
Please see my reply to the OP
 
Lambertkl

Lambertkl

New member
Okay so an update. After failing to find the issue after chasing codes (P2047 and P2017) I decided to embark on a three day journey to Wyoming, despite the fact. The van made the trip, despite having to clear the codes on several large hills.

Now that I'm at my destination, I noticed dripping oil on the driveway. I checked the oil and it was now 1 3/4 quart low, and there was oil sprayed and baked all over the drivers side of the engine compartment. Oil was dripping off the intercooler / intake hoses pretty bad.

I replaced the fuel filter, and a $200 fuel rail sensor before the trip. I also put in marvel mystery oil into the diesel tank.

None of this has worked.

Also I inspected the upper intake manifold tube for leaks, and I found oil and some silver grainy material inside the tube. See photos.

Is this normal? Is this a clue?

Thanks for any advice!

PS: There are no turbo codes, and no oil caked up on the turbo side of the engine, so I don't think it's a turbo issue. Also my turbo resonator was replaced five years ago with a new plastic one.
IMG_1106.JPGIMG_1107.JPGIMG_1108.JPGIMG_1109.JPGIMG_1110.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Lambertkl

Lambertkl

New member
Just an update for anyone following this thread.
I’ve recently replaced the lower intercooler hose and the boost sensor that plugs into it. However I’m still getting a check engine light and “limp mode.” I’ve talked to a Sprinter mechanic who thinks that the turbo actuator may need to be replaced. Unfortunately this is sold new with turbo, so I am trying to find an OEM rebuilt one as I don’t think there is any problem with the actual turbo.
 
Sprinterair

Sprinterair

Active member
Change this quantity valve is pain in the hands Hi low pressure on fuel rail is challenging game , either way when change these sensors , negative cable must disconnect before and after you clear all pressure code such as P2046-P2017 and P0088 .
Many people here alway suggess replace with OEM parts only problem is they are over prices especially when our T1N vehicles getting older , Could be lucky me I took the risk by using cheap Chinese knockoff EGR valve it works better than Mahler EGR ( $400.00 new for Mahler) on my van with less than 65K miles since new ..Why Mahler broke down to early " Simple answer is : They are also source out to Chinese firms and it exact same with most OEM from MB.
 
Lambertkl

Lambertkl

New member
I have not changed the quantity valve. My Sprinter mechanic friend in Portland is convinced it is the turbo actuator. However since this part is $400 for a rebuilt one, I'm trying to decide if I should just buy a new Garret turbo (which includes actuator) for $1100. I don't want to spend the extra money, but maybe the turbo is worn out. What would you guys do?
 
T

trc.rhubarb

Well-known member
I'd say that while air is indeed, fuel, it's not the fuel being measured in the fuel rail. If the sensors read poor quantities, I'm not sure how changing air inlet flow would make any difference to those numbers. I am by no means a professional mechanic nor am i in front of your van as your friend is, but it doesn't seem to add up.

The actuator won't engage if the ECU turns it off because of going into limp home. It may partially engage in a partial limp home.
 
N

Njclimber

Active member
Just had a similar problem with high/low fuel pressure codes, ended up being my fuel pump. Some crud was getting sucked into the feed pipe for the pump and caused it to fail. I could audibly hear the pump failing. I had a rusted fuel cap. Some here say the fuel cap rusts so bad that the rust falls into the tank and then gets sucked up into the fuel pump ruining it. Check what your fuel cap looks like. If it's rusted to hell maybe you have a failing pump? I replaced the pump relay same time as the pump and no problems since. Also rinsed out the tank to get the crud out...

Search the forum for more info on how to diagnose the pump without dropping the tank..
 
jrod5150

jrod5150

Well-known member
Lambertkl said:
I have not changed the quantity valve. My Sprinter mechanic friend in Portland is convinced it is the turbo actuator. However since this part is $400 for a rebuilt one, I'm trying to decide if I should just buy a new Garret turbo (which includes actuator) for $1100. I don't want to spend the extra money, but maybe the turbo is worn out. What would you guys do?
Click to expand...
Unless theres some information you havent posted, a turbo actuator isnt going to cause a fuel rail pressure code. Quanity valve is $150. Actuator should be $200ish, turbo $1000. Personally I havent had an actuator fail although ive seen it on a clients van that I did a cruise control retro fit for. He had replaced his turbo with a cardone POS and it included an actuator that would not move with the ignition cycled. Chasing over and low boost codes that come and go I have yet to see one caused by a temperamental boost actuator. Imo they are either good or bad. So far theres been no inbetween
 
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