P2633 - 09 Dodge Sprinter 2500 with CEL and reduced power uphill

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
I have an 09 Dodge 2500 with 154k miles. I have had it for 2 years. For the most part, it has been running like a champ. I built it into a camper, have lived in it full time for a year and have been on a long road trip since early February. No recent service done except last December I had some rusted out transmission lines replaced at a dealership.

About 10 days ago I started experiencing loss of power on inclines. It first happened on a long slow incline where I would have normally been able to keep a steady 40-50 mph without much gas. On this day, I had the pedal to the floor and my mph were declining quickly, down to 20mph and I was struggling to keep it at that. The rpms were topping out at about 30. I heard a deeper sound from the engine on this day when hitting the gas pedal. I did not get any CEL during that drive. I stopped for a couple hours in the next city and when I started the van back up, my CEL was on. I ran a scan with my Autel AP200. At that point I only got one code: 9100 - KI-Instrument Cluster - Engine CAN bus - CAN fault. I decided to drive to my next destination before investigating further. I drove it a few hundred miles and the CEL stayed on through multiple stops and starts.

I scanned it again 3 days later while driving and received a new code: P2633. When researching P2633 I see that it is for Charge air system offset drift under load. In a previous thread Dennis listed possible causes for this code as intake air system leak, intake air temp sensor, maf air sensor or possible egr problem.

I continue to experience the same loss of power uphill, and the CEL remains on all the time. It may have improved a little, or I might have just gotten better at compensating for it. I can eventually get the van up to 60mph or higher, but it takes longer than usual especially going uphill. I have not heard the deeper engine sound again (not since that first day of experiencing the issue).

I checked my engine oil and transmission fluid level and they are both fine. I have read all the threads on this code, and all about the turbo seals, the air intake system seals / hoses, etc. The air intake tube from the air filter to the turbo has no cracks. The orange seal at the turbo seems intact and tight although I plan to replace it as a precaution. From my initial inspection, I noticed oil spray in two locations:
1. Photo 1. From the aluminum charge elbow to the resonator. Is this just an o-ring seal on this side? I think its this part that should be replaced.
2. Photo 2. On the hose leading to the intercooler on the passenger side. I believe it is this part. I can’t tell if this oil means the hose should be replaced or if it might be something else?

The 3rd and 4th photo are just to show the other side of the resonator, I don't think that is leaking but you can see some oil spray behind/under where the resonator is in these two photos.

intercooler hose.JPG
resonator 1.jpg
resonator 2.jpg

resonator 3.JPG

If anyone can tell me what else to check / replace as a starting point I would be very grateful. I’d like to do any repairs myself if possible, and that will happen in a parking lot or national forest. I am a total beginner here and learning as we speak so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I am also due for an oil / filter change, and fuel filter change so I will be doing that at the same time (this will be my 2nd time doing all that). I will also add BG245 to the tank after changing the fuel filter.
 

Dima74

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
I have an 09 Dodge 2500 with 154k miles. I have had it for 2 years. For the most part, it has been running like a champ. I built it into a camper, have lived in it full time for a year and have been on a long road trip since early February. No recent service done except last December I had some rusted out transmission lines replaced at a dealership.

About 10 days ago I started experiencing loss of power on inclines. It first happened on a long slow incline where I would have normally been able to keep a steady 40-50 mph without much gas. On this day, I had the pedal to the floor and my mph were declining quickly, down to 20mph and I was struggling to keep it at that. The rpms were topping out at about 30. I heard a deeper sound from the engine on this day when hitting the gas pedal. I did not get any CEL during that drive. I stopped for a couple hours in the next city and when I started the van back up, my CEL was on. I ran a scan with my Autel AP200. At that point I only got one code: 9100 - KI-Instrument Cluster - Engine CAN bus - CAN fault. I decided to drive to my next destination before investigating further. I drove it a few hundred miles and the CEL stayed on through multiple stops and starts.

I scanned it again 3 days later while driving and received a new code: P2633. When researching P2633 I see that it is for Charge air system offset drift under load. In a previous thread Dennis listed possible causes for this code as intake air system leak, intake air temp sensor, maf air sensor or possible egr problem.

I continue to experience the same loss of power uphill, and the CEL remains on all the time. It may have improved a little, or I might have just gotten better at compensating for it. I can eventually get the van up to 60mph or higher, but it takes longer than usual especially going uphill. I have not heard the deeper engine sound again (not since that first day of experiencing the issue).

I checked my engine oil and transmission fluid level and they are both fine. I have read all the threads on this code, and all about the turbo seals, the air intake system seals / hoses, etc. The air intake tube from the air filter to the turbo has no cracks. The orange seal at the turbo seems intact and tight although I plan to replace it as a precaution. From my initial inspection, I noticed oil spray in two locations:
1. Photo 1. From the aluminum charge elbow to the resonator. Is this just an o-ring seal on this side? I think its this part that should be replaced.
2. Photo 2. On the hose leading to the intercooler on the passenger side. I believe it is this part. I can’t tell if this oil means the hose should be replaced or if it might be something else?

The 3rd and 4th photo are just to show the other side of the resonator, I don't think that is leaking but you can see some oil spray behind/under where the resonator is in these two photos.

View attachment 145184
View attachment 145185
View attachment 145186

View attachment 145187

If anyone can tell me what else to check / replace as a starting point I would be very grateful. I’d like to do any repairs myself if possible, and that will happen in a parking lot or national forest. I am a total beginner here and learning as we speak so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I am also due for an oil / filter change, and fuel filter change so I will be doing that at the same time (this will be my 2nd time doing all that). I will also add BG245 to the tank after changing the fuel filter.
If you checked for leaks between air filter box and compressor, check the O ring seal between compressor and the pipe that goes to the resonator. See pictures and the link also...

Look at this on eBay

A few things that you need to pay attention to based on the pictures you posted...

The oily spot at turbo resonator, realign everything and make sure that you do not have any leak there. A leaking turbo resonator can destroy the intake manifold linkage and create a costly problem for you, replacement of the intake manifold/manifolds.

The leak at the intercooler, make sure that the clamp is tight and make sure that you don't have an intercooler leak due to a cracked intercooler tank.
 

Attachments

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
If you checked for leaks between air filter box and compressor, check the O ring seal between compressor and the pipe that goes to the resonator.
Thank you Dima74, I appreciate your feedback very much. I will definitely replace that o-ring just to be safe. The parts diagram is very helpful, I appreciate you including that for reference.

A few things that you need to pay attention to based on the pictures you posted...

The oily spot at turbo resonator, realign everything and make sure that you do not have any leak there. A leaking turbo resonator can destroy the intake manifold linkage and create a costly problem for you, replacement of the intake manifold/manifolds.

The leak at the intercooler, make sure that the clamp is tight and make sure that you don't have an intercooler leak due to a cracked intercooler tank.
That is a good point. I thought the seal at the left side connection to the resonator might be leaking, but I didn't consider it might be the resonator itself. I am trying to find an E10 external torx socket today and having trouble, so I might need to order and wait a couple days for it to arrive in order to remove the resonator and inspect.

Earlier today I pulled the oily passenger side tube to the intercooler off and didn't see any obvious cracks in the tube or the intercooler (from what is visible). It is a little frayed at the bottom end edges and the hose clamp has left some deep ridges in the tube. I will order a replacement.

I also scanned the van again today while driving. I got the same P2633 code and now a new code P2626 - The trimming resistor connection of oxygen sensor 1 (cylinder bank 1) has an open circuit or other electrical faults.

I have a couple more stores to check for the E10 socket, then I will research more about how this new code might shed more light on the issue.
 

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
This morning I took the resonator out to inspect it. I didn't notice any cracks, but it does seem to be warped a little causing it to separate at one corner of the bottom seam. There didn't seem to be any leaks at this location, however. Any opinions about whether this resonator needs replacing?

underside resonator.JPG

After taking the components apart and putting them back together, it seems the brackets for the bolt locations holding everything in place don't allow both sides of the resonator to be firmly seated into both aluminum pipes. If you look at the previous photo in my first post you'll see how the side connected to the aluminum elbow was about 1/2" away from being fully seated. I suspect this was the main cause of the oil leaking underneath the resonator. I had to make a choice for where to leave the extra gap since bolting it back together would not allow everything to be very tight. So I made sure the aluminum elbow was tight to the turbo/green o-ring and also tight to the resonator / black seal. That meant the driver side of the resonator going into the straight aluminum pipe was a little higher that I would have liked. The bolt hole still lined up, though, so maybe it is supposed to be like that. This is what it looks like now:

resonator adjusted.JPG

So I got back in the van and proceeded to scan it again while driving a couple miles up a 10% grade. The van performed the same (still reduced power and lagged shifting) but now I was hearing a high pitched whine that I hadn't heard previously. The whine did not happen going downhill, traveling on a level surface, or going up smaller hills. This time I got the two previous codes showing as Current and Stored (P2633 and P2626 as listed above). I also got two new codes both showing as Stored. These were 912D - (Instrument Cluster (IC)) - Component 'A1e13') Preglow indicator lamp)' is defective and P1480. Still not sure what P1480 means for my '09. I only see it listed on the forum for T1Ns - is that the same? Does anyone know? If so it would be Glow Plug indicator error. My glow plug indicator appears to be working fine, it comes on every time I start the engine, and I wait for it to turn off before starting.

I'm still trying to figure out what to do. I read this thread from 2014 late last night which caused me to question if I should even try to start fixing this issue. I can not perform many of the functions listed in that thread on my own, and the nearest trusted sprinter mechanic is about 6 hrs away. I am leaning towards replacing certain parts (o-rings, seals, intercooler hose shown above) as well as doing fuel filter change, oil filter change, and going from there. Any feedback or thoughts greatly appreciated.
 

turbo911

Active member
the big seal on top of the resonator from your picture is not seated. i would venture to say after you did all your work if you look its not seated again hence your losss of boost pressure. if you have no cracks in your charge pipe hoses(also a source) do what i did. first as far as the resonator is concerned make sure replace all seals with new ones. jb weld the s**t around the sealing edges where the o ring resides on the resonator. it is a potential loss of boost pressure too. make sure the drivers side charge pipe is adjusted all the way up. then loosen all the bolts on the linkage that holds the charge pipe from the turbo to the resonator and seat the resonator flush (i do me flush) to the charge pipes on both sides. fit the clamp and screw to the charge pipe. do the short bolt behind the resonator. then the 2 in front. make sure the charge pipe at the turbo is seated and tighten the bolt at the charge pipe then the linkage. at this point check that the resonator is still seated flush on both ends to the charge pipes. then get a wide ty wrap and wrap it behind the big flange at the left side of the resonator leaving a little gap. safety wire the area between the screw and the c clamp at the bootom of the resonator to the ty wrap tight and cinch to prevent the resonator being blown out of the charge pipe on top. the later cars have an additional brachet at the front and mounting bolt area of the turbo charge pipe to prevent blowing out so i assume the factory figured out this was a problem source. if you dont want to rube it spend big bucks to replace your charge pipe and get the additional brackets of a later model sprinter.
 

turbo911

Active member
the next thing i would suspect is a leak at the egr valve. pull egr valve and make sure the bottom valve closes under pressure of the spring. clean it while it out and if it closes properly reinstall. next check the tube from the side of the egr valve to the intake manifold is not leaking at the intake manifold.( the other end of the tube where it bolts into. ) mine was and its like a tear in one of the charge hoses. when i said jb weld the resonator i am talking about the middle where the two halves join not the ends. next check the throttle valve sensors for cleanliness. lastly check your turbo actuator visually . when you view it with key off it should be at 2 o clock. when you turn key on it should be at 5 o clock, if its still at 2 you are in limp home mode. there are tests you can view on youtube. the easiest one is to carefully remove the circlip from the arm of tthe actuator. with the arm from the turbo free you should be able to push it down with no resistance. if it moves the vane in the turbo is ok. next is to check actuator. this is best explaine d by watching youtube video. the + and - of the actuator are jumped and the sense wire is jumped. and the arm should move from 2 to 5 oclock position. if it doent actuator is bad. there are hacks to fix on you tube or replace. all the actuator tests and senor tests can be done at dealer or mechanic with xentry good luck
 

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
make sure the drivers side charge pipe is adjusted all the way up. then loosen all the bolts on the linkage that holds the charge pipe from the turbo to the resonator and seat the resonator flush (i do me flush) to the charge pipes on both sides. fit the clamp and screw to the charge pipe. do the short bolt behind the resonator. then the 2 in front. make sure the charge pipe at the turbo is seated and tighten the bolt at the charge pipe then the linkage. at this point check that the resonator is still seated flush on both ends to the charge pipes.
This was a huge help, thanks for describing this in such detail. I did not even realize prior to reading your message that the vertical charge pipe was adjustable. After seeing this, I knew this was a big source of my issue. Once I received the parts I had ordered (new resonator with both seals and turbo intake seal) I went back in and made the adjustments as you described when putting the new parts in. I also ordered a set of external torx hinged sockets that were very useful for adjusting all the bolts. The old resonator/seals were very loose in the pipe and came out easily. The new ones I put in were sealed so well that it took a lot of strength to get them seated properly. I made sure to have it flush as you described.

After doing this and driving the van, it feels much improved. Two of the codes are still showing Current and Stored (2633 and 2626). It's still not 100% back to normal, but seems to be getting better each time I drive it. I still want to replace the intercooler hoses (MB sent me the wrong one) even though they don't seem cracked, I think they've expanded and the seals are no longer as tight as they could be.

then get a wide ty wrap and wrap it behind the big flange at the left side of the resonator leaving a little gap. safety wire the area between the screw and the c clamp at the bootom of the resonator to the ty wrap tight and cinch to prevent the resonator being blown out of the charge pipe on top.
I didn't do this part yet because I don't have the supplies, but I will keep it in mind for a future add-on. It is a good idea.

the next thing i would suspect is a leak at the egr valve.
I will plan to take a look at this too and also the actuator as you mentioned. At this point, when driving it seems that I can mostly get the power I need when on an incline, but there are times where it takes a few seconds of pushing the gas before the rpms increase. It seems like its getting stuck at first, usually only at speeds of around 40mph. Wonder if that is indicative of an egr issue or something else, but I will check it out just to make sure.

Thanks again for your comments, they really made a big difference in helping me figure out how to approach attempting this fix.
 

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
I spent the entire weekend on the egr valve. I removed it, and cleaned it. It seemed to be functioning just fine even when dirty. It took forever to remove, because it was so stuck. I used PB Blaster, did my best to shimmy it, hitting it softly with a hammer. I finally had to resort to this technique I found on youtube. This solution worked like a charm, the small marks it caused are hopefully just cosmetic since they don't interfere with the gasket.

The van feels like it is driving normally again, except for rare cases where I need to accelerate quickly while also going up an incline.

I did another live scan this morning with my Autel AP200 and the two codes (P2633 and P2626) are still showing Current and Stored. I also found a new code this morning P2853 that is showing as Stored. I have no idea what this is, nothing on the forum to describe it. I need to see if I can figure that out.

Right now I'm going to do an oil change, fuel filter change, both air filters change, and I'm adding BG 245 to the fuel tank.

And then I need to decide where to go from here.
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
From the Autel Code Look-up site:

P2853 Clutch 'A' Pressure Discharge Performance

https://www.autel.com/autelcms/dtc/queryDTCInfo.jspx
Which sounds like Transmission to me, but may have been triggered by a sudden loss of engine power!

Keith.
Thanks for that, Keith. For some reason I did not have that code lookup page as a resource but now I have bookmarked it. Its interesting that the Autel site tells me different descriptions for the previous two codes than what I read on this forum. So now I have a little more to investigate.

The van was operating mostly normal, but then I arrived at my new camp spot that is at about 6k in elevation. I was previously at 3k elevation when experiencing and diagnosing the issue. When driving up this small mountain/big hill the van was experiencing the reduced power issue the same as I had encountered the first time it started showing up. I couldn't get it to go much faster than 20mph with the pedal to the floor. Every now and then it would seem to shift up, but then no change in speed or power. So I've done lots of repairs but still nothing has seemed to fix the issue.

I think I'll see if I can figure out how to check the turbo actuator, and learn more about the sensors (MAF, oxygen, maybe others) and how to check on those. I will probably also replace both intercooler hoses. Maybe take it in for a de-soot once I get to Billings. And of course lots more reading and researching to see what more I can do here in the middle of nowhere by myself. Any tips much appreciated.
 

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
Update.

I replaced the passenger intercooler hose a week ago. I experienced what seemed like improved power. I did not take it to a shop while I was in Billings.

Still had the following current and stored codes from Autel AP200. (This is the description from the Autel website.)
P2626 - O2 Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open Bank 1 Sensor 1
P2633 - Fuel Pump B Control Circuit Low

It seemed to be driving mostly normal at that point. CEL still on. A few days later, I had one experience when starting the van when it did not respond to acceleration. I was boondocking without cell reception. I shut it off and restarted a couple times and then it seemed back to 'normal'.

The next day, I started hearing a high pitched whistle occasionally when driving. Sounded like it was coming from the area behind the key/ignition. It started intermittent and then became constant over about an hour of short trips. Then while driving I experienced extreme reduced power where I couldn't get above 10-20 mph. A few minutes later, the engine started chugging, I just barely pulled to the shoulder and it shut itself off. I tried to restart it to get to a pullout that was 40ft in front of me. It restarted but wasn't running smooth and when I tried to accelerate it shut itself off. When I looked under the hood, there was smoking coming from what seemed like the turbo area, and a burning plastic smell. The air tubes and hoses on both sides of the turbo seemed tight and intact. (No chance the orange seal could've gotten sucked in, it was brand new and very snug.)

I scanned the codes and got the following codes from Autel AP200
stored:
B1301 - (Air Conditioning System) - The component 'M16/8 (blend air flap actuator motor) is blocked, has incorrect polarity or has an open circuit.
current and stored:
P2078 - Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 1a
P2079 - Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Intermittent Bank 1a
P2626 - O2 Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open Bank 1 Sensor 1
P2633 - Fuel Pump B Control Circuit Low

I wanted to have it immediately towed the ~600 miles it would take to get to Linden Engineering but they are booked out 5 weeks. I live in this van, so instead it was towed ~120 miles to a Floyd's Truck Center. The sprinter tech looked at it yesterday afternoon and got the following codes:

2503 476/1 - (cylinder 1 injector) Unknown fault type - 1
2504 476/2 - "
2505 476/3 - "
2506 476/4 - "
2507 476/5 - "
2508 476/6 - "

2500-004 474/1 - (Pressure Regulator Valve) - signal line interrupted

He checked inside the wiring harness that typically gets chaffed and those wires are all intact. He said he can communicate with the ECU, but that it doesn't appear to be getting power. The grounds are good.

He has it again this morning, continuing to try to diagnose it.

I'm interested in any ideas or help anyone might have.
 
Last edited:

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
The final assessment from the shop is that the 'CDI' needs to be replaced. On this forum it is typically referred to as the ECU, from what I can tell.

This is the tech's write up:
"Verified that the engine cranks, but does not start. Pushed into the shop and read the fault codes. There are current faults for cylinders 1 thru 6. 1503 thru 2508. There is a stored 2123-0087 injectors output stage, general error. Cranked the engine and monitored rail pressure, nearly 300 bar. Checked for fuel leaks, none. Started checking for engine wiring harness damage. Removed the air cleaner and the right plastic cover. Ran continuity check between the CDI connector and injectors 1 and 2. Both ohm out at .2 and .4. These pins are not grounding out. Measured continuity to the pressure regulator valve, ok. Checked the powers and grounds to the CDI, ok."

They quoted me $1600 for parts and $800 labor (including diagnostic time), so we're moving forward with that because I reached my limit of DIY knowledge and my own diagnostic abilities long ago. Not sure this is going to fix all my CEL problems, but as long as it gets the van running again I'll worry about those later.
 

MN170

Member
The final assessment from the shop is that the 'CDI' needs to be replaced. On this forum it is typically referred to as the ECU, from what I can tell.

This is the tech's write up:
"Verified that the engine cranks, but does not start. Pushed into the shop and read the fault codes. There are current faults for cylinders 1 thru 6. 1503 thru 2508. There is a stored 2123-0087 injectors output stage, general error. Cranked the engine and monitored rail pressure, nearly 300 bar. Checked for fuel leaks, none. Started checking for engine wiring harness damage. Removed the air cleaner and the right plastic cover. Ran continuity check between the CDI connector and injectors 1 and 2. Both ohm out at .2 and .4. These pins are not grounding out. Measured continuity to the pressure regulator valve, ok. Checked the powers and grounds to the CDI, ok."

They quoted me $1600 for parts and $800 labor (including diagnostic time), so we're moving forward with that because I reached my limit of DIY knowledge and my own diagnostic abilities long ago. Not sure this is going to fix all my CEL problems, but as long as it gets the van running again I'll worry about those later.
I wish you good luck. I just had my Sprinter at Floyd's in Belgrade. The Sprinter tech did a great job on my van.
 

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
Two weeks later, I am still stuck at the shop, unable to drive anywhere this whole time. The tech was wrong about the computer being the problem. He put the new one in and same issue. Over the last two weeks a number of things have been replaced, combined with time waiting for parts. He decided to replace the wiring harness and located damage behind the turbo due to an exhaust leak there. He told me the gasket at the back of the turbo had failed, and the heat from that leak melted the wiring harness probably causing short circuits, and also damaged the glow plug. (This explains the smoking I saw near the turbo the day the van shut off while I was driving). He replaced the gasket and the glow plug. Then he determined that the DPF was completely clogged. He tried to run a re-gen 4 or 5 times and it was unsuccessful. They advised the DPF needed replacing. That takes us up to a week ago. The DPF was expected to arrive Friday, but didn't come. Then they told me Tuesday. Didn't come. Finally arrived today. The tech had the van from 10am-3pm today putting the new part in. I spoke to him after he put it in. We looked at the old part together. At this point the van was idling outside the shop and he said he was "getting it up to temperature to run a re-gen" and then he planned to take it for a drive. I sat outside waiting another hour or so in anticipation, but then he took the van back into the shop. I knew something was wrong. After speaking to the service counter, they stated that it turned out the part that was received was a DOC and not a DPF. So they have ordered the DPF and it should arrive tomorrow. So I waited a week for something they could have had in one day. Not to mention, does the part really have to be entirely replaced (something that took 4-5 hours) and a re-gen attempted before the tech realized that it was not the DPF? I'm really really confused about this.

I have not received an updated estimate from the service counter, yet. It was supposed to be $5500 for all parts and labor to replace the wiring harness, gasket at back of turbo, glow plug, and DPF. I have now been here for 18 days (although its been 21 days since the van broke down) and I'm trying to keep my patience and positive attitude but its starting to wear on me. I also didn't mention the only day during this time they told me I could drive it (after wiring harness, but before gasket and glow plug repair) and I took it a couple miles down the road to get groceries. It sounded terrible, wouldn't go above 20mph, and it was gushing out power steering fluid but I didn't realize that until it was too late causing a pretty scary ride back. Apparently the tech hadn't secured the reservoir properly after reinstalling it following the wiring harness installation. And today he told me he has only had one year experience working on sprinters. And when I asked him what the part was just beyond the DPF (is it the SCR? I wasn't sure what it is called) he said "oh yeah, I know what you're talking about, I don't know". :oops:

He is very nice, and I thought was super conscientious and skilled enough but after all of this I am really starting to worry about what I've gotten myself into here. I hope I don't regret it whenever I am able to leave here with a hopefully repaired van.
 

luckworthy

'09 2500 144" cargo
The update is that it was finally 'fixed' at the Floyds Truck Center. The DPF arrived and was installed and after that the tech was able to run a manual re-gen and clear the two codes (P2633 and P2626). They ended up charging me $4088 for everything. Since then I traveled back to Massachusetts. The van drives mostly back to normal but something still seemed off to me power-wise. I could also still smell exhaust when at a stoplight with the a/c on and especially bad with the windows down.

So I took it yesterday to the Benz dealer in Burlington MA where they know their stuff. I asked them to check the work of the previous repair, to make sure the DPF is doing auto regens, and check for exhaust leak. They confirmed last regen about 200 miles ago. Although their scan made it seem like the DPF is still blocked with a pressure of -6. They discovered the tech at Floyds used the wrong bolts at the back of the turbo, they were too long causing a gap that prevents a tight seal. This might be the cause of the negative pressure reading. Apparently the sensor might've relearned from the wrong place due to the gap/space issue and that could be causing the negative reading.

So to fix the gap plus a fresh gasket will be ~$300. Plus the $160 I paid for diagnostic. I have an appointment next week to get it fixed. I called Floyds to request reimbursement for this since it was their error and they were supposed to be in touch with the dealer today to confirm it was their fault. Still waiting to hear back from them on confirmation.

I requested this particular tech at this Benz dealer (Carl, well known to this forum) and was lucky enough that he had the time to take a look. He also talked to me about my van at length and that was amazing. Super cool guy. Confirmed a lot of my suspicions and told me a lot I didn't already know which was awesome. He was super generous with his time and knowledge and I'm feeling a huge relief that my van is finally in good hands. Hoping after next week this whole fiasco will finally be behind me.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
The update is that it was finally 'fixed' at the Floyds Truck Center. The DPF arrived and was installed and after that the tech was able to run a manual re-gen and clear the two codes (P2633 and P2626). They ended up charging me $4088 for everything. Since then I traveled back to Massachusetts. The van drives mostly back to normal but something still seemed off to me power-wise. I could also still smell exhaust when at a stoplight with the a/c on and especially bad with the windows down.

So I took it yesterday to the Benz dealer in Burlington MA where they know their stuff. I asked them to check the work of the previous repair, to make sure the DPF is doing auto regens, and check for exhaust leak. They confirmed last regen about 200 miles ago. Although their scan made it seem like the DPF is still blocked with a pressure of -6. They discovered the tech at Floyds used the wrong bolts at the back of the turbo, they were too long causing a gap that prevents a tight seal. This might be the cause of the negative pressure reading. Apparently the sensor might've relearned from the wrong place due to the gap/space issue and that could be causing the negative reading.

So to fix the gap plus a fresh gasket will be ~$300. Plus the $160 I paid for diagnostic. I have an appointment next week to get it fixed. I called Floyds to request reimbursement for this since it was their error and they were supposed to be in touch with the dealer today to confirm it was their fault. Still waiting to hear back from them on confirmation.

I requested this particular tech at this Benz dealer (Carl, well known to this forum) and was lucky enough that he had the time to take a look. He also talked to me about my van at length and that was amazing. Super cool guy. Confirmed a lot of my suspicions and told me a lot I didn't already know which was awesome. He was super generous with his time and knowledge and I'm feeling a huge relief that my van is finally in good hands. Hoping after next week this whole fiasco will finally be behind me.
Not an uncommon mistake since the three elephant tube neck bolts are about 4 mm shorter than the identical form "bronzy" 6 off fixing the turbo Y pipe to the exhaust manifolds..(three per side)
I put that down to Yankee workshop flat rate compensation, prevalent in big truck shops in NA.
It promotes sloppy work.
Pricing is about right and don't forget to tell the Floydie guys to segregate the bolts in future with the appropriate gasket, then you won't make that mistake again. :devilish:
All the best
Dennis
 

Top Bottom