Oil jet remover tool .

Sprinterair

New member
Hello every one .
Newbie is here , very much appreciated to any one out there ( T1N or beyond) may has this forbidden tool in your tool boxes .
I am in process of rebuilding my broken 64K miles OM647 engine on my 2005 AirStream T1N ..Having a bad luck with this engine cylinders # 1 & 3 problem with piston crown burned and melted , engine needs rebore and honing to the 1st oversize but piston cooling oil jets are in my way , Special tool # 9746 is a small puller for these stupid press in type oil jets and I hate this engineering design ( Corvette engine oil squirter is very smart design ) .
Please contact me at " Fosurepdx@gmail.com @ any time .
I do not have picture of this tool is no longer available at Freedom tools & Racing supplier)
 

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Sprinterair

New member
We know exact bore but limit to not over MB spec , all other 3 cyls are still have a lotsa crosshair but all 5 will receive 1st oversize after cyl/liner measured the rest like bearings stay at STD. Still on the hunt for tool .
 

TGEMilwaukee

New member
You may have missed the section of my post there. So, I will repeat it here... This is the method I used to remove piston cooling jets without the need for the "Special Tool"

For the piston oil jets, I've used Vise-Grip & "OTC 6627 Grip Wrench Adapter" with slide hammer. Grind the nose off from the vise grip to get at the sharp teeth and use those to attach to the piston Jets. Done carefully and they probably could be re-used. I would not re-use them... They are about $9.00 each (6111800043)

Take photo's before removal for reference of position, angle and depth when installing.

Good Luck
 
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smcguyer

Member
BEFORE you remove oil injectors, first place something like a long 3/16" drill bit or rod into the injectors when the pistons are out. The rod must fit tight into the oil jet hole. Then at the top of the block deck, make a paper template to lay across the deck, and mark the exact locations where the rod in each cylinder intersects the deck plane. Now you have just made an index of where each oil jet is supposed to "shoot" .. When the oil jets are reinstalled, they must point and "shoot" to the same locations. This is a double check for bent jets or misaligned jets. I would also scribe exact marks on the jets and block, before removing jets, so you will know where align and start pressing the jets in... especially if you dont have the special installation- index tool. The special tool wont tell you if you have a bent jet! All the jets should "shoot" at the same location within the cylinder hole/deck plane index, or one was bent or misaligned!
 

Sprinterair

New member
These oil squirters are my focal point during teardown and re-installation procedures , Wish MB engineers could copy Corvette engine oil squirters as bolt on style for much better .
Thanks for great advise, I will tackle this week . Waiting for parts including new 5 piston oil squirters .Corvette squirter.jpg
 

Sprinterair

New member
Let is know if you discover the cause of your damage. Information like that is invaluable.
Here was I found out Oil filter housing.jpgCyls pics 3.jpgBlock and head to shop 1.jpgafter all , regardless what cause of this engine premature failure and just to be honest I don't know which of these following reasons below is the chosen one or depending on what are your experiences but happen at the same time :
#1- I changed engine oil grade which was not meet MB standard as 229................228..........( Very confuse oil grade ) I was Mobile 1 5W-40 synt.
#2- Oil fill level was high when test drive for only 14 miles then engine OIL HIGH warning , engine temps was a bit over 200 degree , I was stop driving at once and towed it home
#3- At home open up engine for rebuilding and found oil filter housing looks like this picture ..: Where are other broken plastic parts went ?
Maybe all of these about had cause my engine knocking hard before end of it life ( Poor Van has only 64K miles... )
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Here was I found out

#3- At home open up engine for rebuilding and found oil filter housing looks like this picture ..: Where are other broken plastic parts went ?
Maybe all of these about had cause my engine knocking hard before end of it life ( Poor Van has only 64K miles... )
If the black central 'leg' of the oil filter housing had not fully sealed the hole at the base of the housing casting then you would have zero oil pressure! This is a direct drain back into the sump to aid filter changes without spilling old oil.

Keith.
 

Sprinterair

New member
If the black central 'leg' of the oil filter housing had not fully sealed the hole at the base of the housing casting then you would have zero oil pressure! This is a direct drain back into the sump to aid filter changes without spilling old oil.

Keith.
Could and can be happen ?? How ? when the oil housing cap with 30mm of thread on the cap , snug tie down and it should be completed seal the hole if not oil will leak at housing , No oil leak on my case !!! Interesting .
Thanks
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Could and can be happen ?? How ? when the oil housing cap with 30mm of thread on the cap , snug tie down and it should be completed seal the hole if not oil will leak at housing , No oil leak on my case !!! Interesting .
Thanks
As the cage section of the central section is smashed it is quite probable that the smallest 'O' ring did not seal the drain to the sump. You would not see any external leak as it is an internal drain back to the sump.

But the resulting zero oil pressure would explain your wrecked engine! And MB do not fit any type on engine oil pressure monitoring so you would not know until the engine seized!

Keith.
 

Sprinterair

New member
Indeed , this is a very weak point on plastic case of this oil filter housing despite it is a high temp material but heat will make it plastic become plastic fatigue in long term ,beside the small ( Smart) O ring will have some resistance when whole housing turn in at same time , if separation into two pieces no one will know ...
Thanks for good input .
 

Sprinterair

New member
No . I was a little up set to didn't think about to do this ... It was knocking hard , I meant so hard from Cyl # 1 with conrod wrist pin liner melt and very large place between rod and wrist pin . Engine #3 piston rings burn and weld to piston .Luckily all cyls walls are good up to 1st oversize bore.
Conclusion of this event : Engine was thirsty of lubricant , lack of oil pressure from broken oil filter plastic housing , filter was dry when I open it .
 

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