Bosch 2.5Gal Water Heater fittings

[Plaza]

Hello all,

I am having a hell of a time finding a brass 90 degree elbow fitting that will fit this heater.

Anybody have an online source? The threads on the unit are theoretically pipe fittings but any standard tapered pipe fitting won’t work. They’ll go on maybe 1-2 threads then that’s it. Not good.

The only thing that seems to fit are 1/2” fittings commonly found in faucets and fixtures where the threads are straight and not tapered like in pipe fittings.

Ive got PVC fittings now but looking to make it more solid...suggestions??

Thanks,
Bruno

 

[Kajtek1]

You probably have European pipe thread, but cylindrical, called G-connector.
US hose/pex connectors usually fit over just fine, when with some skills and lot of Teflon tape it is doable straight on.
You can find designated G adapters on ebay or amazon.

 

[kcshoots]

It's likely a BSP (British Standard Pipe) fitting; RV water heaters often have at least one BSP connection. These are readily available online (McMaster-Carr is a great place to order) and certainly at plumbing supply houses and likely some options at the big box home improvement retailers.

 

[Plaza]

Bump...

Does any owner of one of these Bosch water heaters have a direct online source for this? I've been to all the big box retailers and multiple plumbing stores here in los angeles and nothing fits.

 

[220629]

Bump...

Does any owner of one of these Bosch water heaters have a direct online source for this? I've been to all the big box retailers and multiple plumbing stores here in los angeles and nothing fits.

Have you checked with your supplier or Bosch? They may have an installation kit. If no kit, they should be able to give you the specs for what is needed.

Tapered NPT National Pipe Thread was adapted as a worldwide standard. That said, there are many custom fittings which are not NPT. If the thread on your water heater is not tapered the fitting will likely include a seal of some type to be water tight.

vic

 

[mikecol]

I have the larger 7gal model that has 3/4 and ended up using a braided hot water hose with shark bite on other end to get to PEX. The fitting for the heater has a rubber seal (instead of NPT like documented in all the Bosch specs). Bet the 1/2 inch version is the same.

Also used some G to NPT adapters from
Royal H&H Metals Brass Pipe Fitting on Amazon.

 

[sprint2freedom]

I had trouble making a leak-free connection to an Isotemp water heater. It came with a BSP to NPT adapter pre-installed, which leaked on the BSP-BSP threads.

My solution was to remove and discard the adapter. I used this PEX elbow instead, which is intended for NPT but happily threaded onto the BSP threads instead. It doesn't rely on watertight threads at all because it has a cone-shaped seal that presses against the inner diameter of the pipe instead. In my case, I did have to modify the adapter with a hacksaw to remove about 3mm of threads, because there weren't enough BSP threads to get it installed tightly before the fitting bottomed out. You're unlikely to have that same issue.. however you'll then have to adapt PEX to PVC, or replace all the PVC.

 

[SeattleNewbie]

I have one of these water heaters and want to share an unsolicited orthogonal suggestion for the electric wiring. Consider installing one of these guys so that your batteries don't run out:

20-Amp 30-Minute In-Wall Spring Wound Countdown Timer Switch

Woods 20-Amp 30-Minute In-Wall Spring Wound Countdown Timer Switch, White 59714WD - The Home Depot

The In-Wall 30-Minute Spring Wound Timer automatically turns off fans, lights, motors, heaters and other energy consuming loads. Installs conveniently in single or multi-Gang electrical wall boxes and

www.homedepot.com

For the 1/2" inlet and outlet fittings I used these faucet hoses to get to my PEX fittings:

BrassCraft 1/2 in. FIP x 1/2 in. FIP x 12 in. Braided Polymer Faucet Supply Line B8-12A F - The Home Depot

BrassCraft Speedi Plumb plus 1/2 in. Female Iron Pipe inlet x 1/2 in. Female Iron Pipe outlet x 12 in. L braided polymer water connector is corrosion resistant inside and out. Used to connect the water

www.homedepot.com

You might want to use PEX everywhere but I preferred to keep the PEX terminated a few inches away and be able to move the heater around as I made changes to my setup and until I was happy with its position.

 

[Plaza]

Ok so I solved the British threads problem by using some stainless steel 1/2” hoses. They don’t use tapered pipe thread but are still pipe thread. They seal perfect with the rubber bushing inside.

I ordered an Oxygenics shower head along with a thumb water control valve that attaches at the handle & supposedly shuts the water down all the way off. I have a temperature control valve installed.

my question is about a water valve for the shower. It seems like with the TCV, I don’t need a full on mixing valve which adds complexity and water lines, just something to turn on/off the water. I might use the thumb valve, and maybe just a 1/2” ball valve on the hot side after the TCV under the sink.

If there’s hot water, then the temp should be right. If there’s not, the TCV will still push cold water anyways. ‘Hot as I want it until it runs out’. Anybody see any issues with this?

 

[marklg]

Ok so I solved the British threads problem by using some stainless steel 1/2” hoses. They don’t use tapered pipe thread but are still pipe thread. They seal perfect with the rubber bushing inside.

I ordered an Oxygenics shower head along with a thumb water control valve that attaches at the handle & supposedly shuts the water down all the way off. I have a temperature control valve installed.

my question is about a water valve for the shower. It seems like with the TCV, I don’t need a full on mixing valve which adds complexity and water lines, just something to turn on/off the water. I might use the thumb valve, and maybe just a 1/2” ball valve on the hot side after the TCV under the sink.

If there’s hot water, then the temp should be right. If there’s not, the TCV will still push cold water anyways. ‘Hot as I want it until it runs out’. Anybody see any issues with this?

I left the mixing valve in the shower and connected the output of the thermostatic valve to the hot control and the cold water teed off to the cold control (with a check valve). That way you can get hot water or cooler water if you want. I admit it was easier to do that than to replace the mixing valve and have an extra hole in the shower.

I don't have it, because it was too hard to plumb in after most of the system was already there, but consider a loop from somewhere close to the shower back to the cold water tank so you don't waste the cold water in the pipes. If your hot water heater is close, maybe that is not a big deal. I'm not exactly sure how those work, but am aware some have installed them.

Regards,

Mark

 

[sprint2freedom]

If there’s hot water, then the temp should be right. If there’s not, the TCV will still push cold water anyways. ‘Hot as I want it until it runs out’. Anybody see any issues with this?

The main issues would seem to be 1) water too hot, or 2) water too cold.

I wouldn't do it. If you're going to all the trouble to have hot water, you might as well have your shower water be adjustable to a comfortable temperature.

Your TCV may not have the range of adjustment you're looking for. The one that came with my isotemp is turned all the way cold and still puts out >120F water.

Another potential issue is that by leaving the hot/cold mixing to a thermostatic valve you may not be able to get air in or out of parts of your system if the tank is too hot or too cold. So to drain the tank, for example, you'll need to open a hot faucet to let air in. Or to bleed air out of the cold side, you'll need to open a cold faucet. So under certain circumstances you could end up with large amounts of air in the lines (which might only be an annoyance).

 

[SeattleNewbie]

One thing to consider is that the Bosch water heater only has a few gallons of water. If you mix that hot water with cold, you'll have more warm water to use for a longer shower.

This is the mixer+hose that I got and it's been working well. But I specifically did not want a permanent shower head or shower structure, which you might disagree with.

Amazon.com: Dura Faucet DF-SA186-BK RV Exterior Quick Connect Spray Faucet with Multi Spray Nozzle (Black): Automotive

Buy Dura Faucet DF-SA186-BK RV Exterior Quick Connect Spray Faucet with Multi Spray Nozzle (Black): Bath, Shower & Faucets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[marklg]

The main issues would seem to be 1) water too hot, or 2) water too cold.

I wouldn't do it. If you're going to all the trouble to have hot water, you might as well have your shower water be adjustable to a comfortable temperature.

Your TCV may not have the range of adjustment you're looking for. The one that came with my isotemp is turned all the way cold and still puts out >120F water.

Another potential issue is that by leaving the hot/cold mixing to a thermostatic valve you may not be able to get air in or out of parts of your system if the tank is too hot or too cold. So to drain the tank, for example, you'll need to open a hot faucet to let air in. Or to bleed air out of the cold side, you'll need to open a cold faucet. So under certain circumstances you could end up with large amounts of air in the lines (which might only be an annoyance).

The temperature control valve I got:

Hiendure Solid Brass Copper Cartridge 1/2" IPS Male Connections Thermostatic Mixing Valve for Solar Shower System Water Temperature Control, Chromed - - Amazon.com

Hiendure Solid Brass Copper Cartridge 1/2" IPS Male Connections Thermostatic Mixing Valve for Solar Shower System Water Temperature Control, Chromed - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

has plenty of range to set it comfortably.

I do get air in the lines for lots of reasons, but my setup letting the cold valve remain in the shower allows a way out of every pipe, so it is only an annoyance. I have a city water / tank water check valve and it always fills the lines with some air when switching over, but it is not too bad.

I don't go places below freezing, so I don't have to drain the tank. That would be a major issue and the TCV indeed makes it more complicated. I really hate the pink antifreeze. After you go back to regular water, you have to add some bleach and clean out everything or it will smell from the remaining pink stuff.

Regards,

Mark

 

[sprint2freedom]

My water heater is inside so freezing is not a consideration either.

IMO, it's a mistake to assume you'll never need to drain your water heater. I did it several times during installation, and one or two more times since then.. it's only been a month since I added the tank.

If you go this route, I suggest adding a tee leading to a "dump" valve upstream of the TCV, and routing the output of the valve outside so you have some way to break the air lock if you need to. My 2 cents.