2005 3500 dying intermittently

[Lutzo]

Hola,
My 2005 3500 with 130,000 is struggling currently. First time was about a week ago, stalled out after coming to a stop at a red after about 40 mins of driving. CEL came on, engines cranks but no start. Hooked up my MBII, about 6 codes came up (didn’t write them down the first time). Cleared codes, and van started up no problem. Now today. Been driving significantly all week. It’s hot, about 90F, first time really driving in this heat. Same thing, died at red light. At first, code reader couldn’t access the ECU. After disconnecting and reconnecting battery, no start (cranks fine), hey code reader to connect. Following codes show:
P2045
ICB-1040-000 - Can communication of ECM faulty
TDC 26-00 - Seat occupies plausibility error
P1817-002 - Revwraing light has short circuit
P240A- Can fault engine speed from ECM is implausible
HZRB 1004-008 - Not in database
Cleared codes. Van fires up after about 15 minutes on side of road
15 mins later, same thing at red light. No connectivity with MBII
Get towed, get to tow yard, van starts up.
Trying to save on the $500 tow back home, try and drive 1 more time, van makes it about 15 mins, dies while driving at about 45 mph. End up getting towed. Van will start, warms up, and dies.
Any ideas? Thinking camhaft sensor or wire harness issue. Going to go through with a multimeter tomorrow, but electrical is something I have next to no experience with. Thanks guys

 

[billintomahawk]

A known wiring pinch point is under the fuel filter, Have you checked that area for wiring abrasion?

You will have to cut the harness free to check it and then insulate it from sharp corners there.

bill in tomahawk

 

[Mxracer68]

injectors

 

[Lutzo]

I cut back the covering over the harness - the covering itself definitely had some abrasion, but the wires looked insulated.

 

[Lutzo]

I also did a leak off check on the injectors, all were fine except for #5, which was right at the limit of fuel in the hose. Not sure if that’s indicative of a completely failed injector? My impression was that indicated it was still working, just on its way out

 

[autostaretx]

I don't think the CAM shaft sensor will kill the engine when driving.
The CRANK shaft sensor can/will.

They're synchronized at the start, but i don't know if it cares after that.

--dick

 

[jrod5150]

I don't think the CAM shaft sensor will kill the engine when driving.
The CRANK shaft sensor can/will.

They're synchronized at the start, but i don't know if it cares after that.

--dick

Was going to suggest the OP starts with the p2045 but then thought the same thing you typed. I don’t think it could cause a stall out. Ive had the harness shorted on a Van that wouldn’t start unless wiggled and drove it 400 miles and it never shut off.

Op-after rethinking it, being that there is a cam code I think I’d still start there.

 

[Misolith]

Did you resolve this? I'm having trouble with a 2005 t1n sprinter which is stalling while driving, I have the I carport scanner and it's showing p240a code, as above, engine speed implausible

Any ideas of what to check?

 

[BrennWagon]

Did you resolve this? I'm having trouble with a 2005 t1n sprinter which is stalling while driving, I have the I carport scanner and it's showing p240a code, as above, engine speed implausible

Any ideas of what to check?

That points to a bad crank sensor. It’s awkward to get to and sometimes difficult to remove. PB Blaster is your friend.

 

[Lutzo]

Did you resolve this? I'm having trouble with a 2005 t1n sprinter which is stalling while driving, I have the I carport scanner and it's showing p240a code, as above, engine speed implausible

Any ideas of what to check?

It ended up being a bad crankshaft sensor, cheap part that in the grand scheme of things was a fairly easy fix.

 

[Nautamaran]

Any ideas of what to check?

I’ll pile on with Crank position sensor.

These are known to go bad slowly, intermittently failing while hot. So it starts just fine in the morning while cold, then stalls once the sensor gets hot and quits working… but will be fine again once it cools… rinse and repeat. This is often a spring/summer ritual, since cold winter air keeps the sensor cool enough to avoid the failure point, until one fine day you’re sitting in traffic and the engine stalls…

The sensor is located on the upper bell housing above the starter motor, accessible from above and is held by a single bolt… and about twenty years of corrosion. PB Blaster penetrating oil is indeed your friend. Start spraying today…

If it’s REALLY stuck then there is a “soft spot” in the floor of the van below the cup holders that provides better access. Lift the rubber floor mat, then use a cold chisel or drill to pop the spot welds holding the cover down. Glue it back down with a polyurethane adhesive like 3M 4200, short screws, pop rivets…

A shop will usually just drop the transmission then knock the sensor out from the back, poking a bar through gaps the flex plate.

Be aware that the sensor has a plastic housing that can crack and leave fragments in the mounting hole. Be sure you remove all of it, then ream out the hole to remove any residual corrosion. Your future self may thank you if you smear the hole with a good waterproof grease before inserting the new sensor, but don’t goop the end up too much. It’s a magnetic pickup, and grease can collect metallic grime, which interferes with the sensor’s operation (as it does with the speed sensors on the transmission conductor plate)

-dave