Changing my transmission filter and Fluid. What is the best method of turning the engine to access the torque converter bolt?

[bcolins]

I have been reading through the longish thread on this subject here. Noticed that the thread was started in 2008, so thought it might be prudent before starting this to ask if there has been any unpdate in required tools / easiest way to approach the crank bolt in order to rotate the engine CCW to access the Torque Converter drain bolt.

Suggestion I have read is a flex-head ratchet (I have numerous ratchets,....but not a flex head), a 27mm socket and a 1.5" extension. Is this still the current best tool configuration? Any tips on best point of access,....assuming it will be from underneath.

Brian in Austin

 

[rock_fencer]

I just used the 27 with a regular socket. I do remember there is a specific direction of
Rotation but can’t recall which way it was. Make sure you have a fresh hex bit for the torque converter plug to minimize risk of stripping it. Maybe have a spare plug on hand.

 

[Nautamaran]

Turn the crank pulley bolt to the right, as if tightening it.
Place a standard-depth 27mm socket onto the bolt, then attach your socket handle. I found I could push it with my leg and watch for the drain, but it’s FAR easier with a helper.

Also, there’s 4 litres of fluid in the torque converter, so raid the kitchen for some aluminum foil. Cover the cross member and fashion a crude funnel to redirect the draining fluid into your catch tray. This will save you a LOT of cleanup.

-dave

 

[az7000']

The foil is key! I had good luck with a breaker bar with the rotating the 1/2" end and a harbor freight impact socket. The HF sockets are my "large" size, cheap and fine for as often as I use them.

 

[tbuyan]

It's been said before, but turn the bolt in the tightening direction only. If you go too far and the drain plug goes past the window, do not turn the bolt backward; go all the way 'round again. There is no danger of the bolt loosening, but the cam chain mechanism doesn't like to be turned the wrong way.

 

[koenb]

One word - form-a-funnel. Absolute favorite for awkward oil drains.

 

[2x1968muscle]

Ditto on the form-a-funnel
Its a unique solution that actually works

 

[billintomahawk]

So working by myself I got the drain lug close going the right direction.
Then a little fore and aft with the 1/2 inch breaker bar dialed it in.

I expected the earth to open under the van and swallow me...but it didn't.

bill in tomahawk

 

[Nautamaran]

The risk is that by running the timing chain the wrong way the tensioner can be compressed and damaged. A small (1/2 inch?) movement backwards is probably okay, but going back a quarter turn is very likely to over-stress the tensioner mechanism.

-dave

 

[billintomahawk]

The risk is that by running the timing chain the wrong way the tensioner can be compressed and damaged. A small (1/2 inch?) movement backwards is probably okay, but going back a quarter turn is very likely to over-stress the tensioner mechanism.

-dave

That's what it was Dave and I went very slowly.

Hard when you are by yourself to get it perfect.

bill

 

[Nautamaran]

I drained mine alone, so I totally get where you’re coming from, Bill!

-dave

 

[Dougflas]

Here is tip when working by yourself. When you finally get the drain in the correct position, mark the balancer so you can see the mark. Then the next time you have to do it, simply turn the engine around until the mark lines up.

 

[obie]

Here is tip when working by yourself. When you finally get the drain in the correct position, mark the balancer so you can see the mark. Then the next time you have to do it, simply turn the engine around until the mark lines up.

That's a good idea! Some may cringe, but I've also used a prybay/large screwdriver to rotate the flywheel. Doesn't take much leverage, and you can go nice and slow. I'm deliberate with placement of the tip and fulcrum point, never had an issue.