80/20 folding bed conversion idea for my 118" T1n motorcycle hauler

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
Sharing this SketchUp concept I worked out. I want to carry a motorcycle or two in my 118 while also carrying a full size bed for camping. I think 80/20 would work really well for this, given I have low woodworking capability. The mattress is two 25" x 75" memory foam folding pads common on eBay. The bed support is a 6-ft motorcycle ramp (approx 15"-16" wide) that might be sourced commercially but if not can be welded up locally. The bed platform is two piece. The main bed platform would be hinged directly to an 80/20 cabinet built on the left side of the van.The narrower portion of the bed platform is supported on the right side by a surface mounted length of L-track.

The cabinet would contain storage cubbies, lighting, power ports, fold-out table, additional L-track, etc. The folding bed platform would be secured (when vertical) by a positive retention mechanism (TBD) at each end. The nesting panel and ramp could probably be secured for travel using threaded knobs or heavy straps.

I need to figure out whether the bed platforms will be strong enough using only perimeter 80/20 frames, with a plywood top. My completely unedumacated mind says the larger frame would be fine using a stout rectangular extrusion (set longer side vertical) for deflection strength. This would allow the smaller platform section (made with smaller rails and possibly a cross brace) to nest inside the larger one when stowed for travel.

Can anyone confirm?
 

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Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
80/20 15 series would easily be strong enough. I would consider not using 80/20 for the bed platform. Use 1" aluminum square tube at the wall but make the bed panel using 1" rigid insulation with 7/32" plywood facings glued to the insulation. Lighter, cheaper and panel is insulated. Use 1" wood around 3 edges with tube at the wall edge. Continuous length aluminum hinges work very well for the hinge. McMaster-Carr sells the hinges. I used part # 1581A5631. Without holes and cut to length. You do need to add a flat washer between hinge and 80/20 to compensate for the tapered slot opening.

Look at PDF drawing # ODJ127-16 in the link. Different application but shows hinged panel details:

 
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hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
80/20 15 series would easily be strong enough. I would consider not using 80/20 for the bed platform. Use 1" aluminum square tube at the wall but make the bed panel using 1" rigid insulation with 7/32" plywood facings glued to the insulation. Lighter, cheaper and panel is insulated. Use 1" wood around 3 edges with tube at the wall edge. Continuous length aluminum hinges work very well for the hinge. ...
Great input, Dave, thanks. The insulation wouldn't hurt, and might help! Your sandwich design would preclude nesting, but with no net space loss. They would also have to be very sturdy and durably edged as they will get knocked about some. I'm also thinking that they might possible be joined together with a second hinge so that both travel together (up or down).
 

full metal racket

2012 144" High Roof
Very interested in this design as hauling bikes is one of the reasons I bought the van, but we use it to camp too. Will be finishing insulation and walls soon, then onto the bed. More things to think about!
 

jimkav

Active member
Looking at doing similar except not full width. 1/2 size fold over. Hindge on one side, support from straps off ceiling. Moto next to bed.
 

gs850gx

Active member
I hinged both panels with the hinge out from the wall to make the 5" mattress self storing. These are 30 X 80. they can be removed entirely as well without tools if desired. Three legs pivot down to the floor. Easily modified to make full width if the corridor is not desired.
 

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Rnbwalker

New member
You are well under way with a nice design, but here is another option for thought of having both the bed always made and yet room to roll your Moto in too. https://youtu.be/cdi727W5exM
KC, I saw your video a few weeks ago. I think I found the actuators you used but I’d love to get more details about the design and implementation of that awesome bed and bike drawer. It’s exactly what I want to do!
 

Garandman

Active member
Wanted something to hinge off the L track so it could swing up and down. Can’t weld aluminum tubing myself. But Army style cots have and aluminum frame (with folding legs). Thought about removing the frame and using the top as the bed.

Found the “Monk Bed” which is similar in concept but uses a rigid surface.

E34E997B-690C-4CE6-9881-71FC69C2DCAD.png
 
I'm following this discussion and appreciate the ideas and suggestions. In another thread I posted photos of my current 30 X 80 foldable bed that I have is a 2015 170 inch passenger van (Sprinters with Motorcycles). The bedframe is one-half of a inexpensive queen size frame that I modified slightly to move the middle leg toward the center to clear the wheel well. It is freestanding and can be folded

Although it's kinda tight walking back and forth, it sure is nice to have the bed always ready for a quick nap. Better yet, standard plastic storage containers fit below and the bed height is just right for sitting.

Haven't made a commitment on a mattress yet. Funny as it sounds, after a couple of nights testing, I can (quietly) vouch for one layer of cardboard and two very thick sleeping bags for padding. It is surprisingly comfortable. That's right, a cardboard mattress in a $50,000 sprinter :sneaky:.

Good luck with your plans. Please post up photos of your build.



1596491519737.png 1596491554290.png
 

TriJen75

New member
I hinged both panels with the hinge out from the wall to make the 5" mattress self storing. These are 30 X 80. they can be removed entirely as well without tools if desired. Three legs pivot down to the floor. Easily modified to make full width if the corridor is not desired.
How did you secure the rail to side of van wall? I love this bed set up.
 

gs850gx

Active member
Eye Bolt
I don't have a picture but there were holes from the factory already there that I used and spaced the eye bolts to match. I had to enlarge them slightly to accept the 3\8 bolt. Used a fender washer to spread the load then a locking nut. Plenty strong for the bed and light lashing but would not lash something heavy to them.
The hooks on the platforms can be bolt or wood screw depending on your platform. I cut pieces of vinyl tubing and slid them over the hooks to eliminate a little rattling on bumpy roads.
Dan
 

TriJen75

New member
I love this. Can you please share the materials
Wanted something to hinge off the L track so it could swing up and down. Can’t weld aluminum tubing myself. But Army style cots have and aluminum frame (with folding legs). Thought about removing the frame and using the top as the bed.

Found the “Monk Bed” which is similar in concept but uses a rigid surface.

View attachment 148711
I love this. Can you please post the materials you used for the bed and is it held by L track? To clarify, is that a monk bed?
 

TriJen75

New member
I
Eye Bolt
I don't have a picture but there were holes from the factory already there that I used and spaced the eye bolts to match. I had to enlarge them slightly to accept the 3\8 bolt. Used a fender washer to spread the load then a locking nut. Plenty strong for the bed and light lashing but would not lash something heavy to them.
The hooks on the platforms can be bolt or wood screw depending on your platform. I cut pieces of vinyl tubing and slid them over the hooks to eliminate a little rattling on bumpy roads.
Dan
Thank you! I have been reading as much as possible about using plus nuts for existing holes.
 

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