Giant gash/slice in van frame above fuel tank

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I have no idea really.

In the region of the damage there is only one tank support strap that I see. Is a strap missing?

I don't know why anyone would need to intentionally open such a long access.

FrameSliced.jpg

With the apparent "lip" along the edges, I lean toward torn metal, but have no clue what tore it open.

:2cents: vic
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
I have no idea really.

In the region of the damage there is only one tank support strap that I see. Is a strap missing?

I don't know why anyone would need to intentionally open such a long access.

View attachment 142089

With the apparent "lip" along the edges, I lean toward torn metal, but have no clue what tore it open.

:2cents: vic
If access to the strap nuts were needed, simple holes could have been made with a hole saw.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
There is a tank strap on the left, its just hard to see.
I kinda figured that. Far left, but away from the damage.

They shoulda used the differential to lift the truck and avoided that damage. :bounce:

vic
 

Bobnoxious

Adeptus Trollarium
Give me a hoist, grinder couple dozen 3/16 steel cheery rivets, clecos, stretch tape, polysulfide sealant, 3/16 steel for doubler, power brake, zinc chromate, 16-hours, mucho beer and $$$, piece of cake.

A vehical recovery where they hooked the thin frame and tore it . Seems very plausible.

Possibly a bad tow truck operator did it while pulling it up onto the flatbed
That's my guess.
Tried to snatch it by the big hole, and pull aft end first. Metal yielded and followed the bend of the frame channel. Must have made a horrible noise.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
This is almost as good as an oil thread. Just a bit narrower in scope. :bounce:

vic

I'd do your repair as described DIY in a heartbeat. :thumbup:

Not to disagree with other than material selection...

... 3/16 steel for doubler, ...
3/16" is pretty heavy stock. 16 ga. galvanized formed sheet steel would be more than sufficient. 18 ga. formed steel is probably good enough structurally, and easier to work. From the pictures, keep in mind that the repair is being sistered to a basically intact structure. The repair just needs to bridge/strengthen the gap. (A personal on site inspection might change my reply.)

:2cents: vic
 

Bobnoxious

Adeptus Trollarium
I'd do your repair as described DIY in a heartbeat. :thumbup:

Not to disagree with other than material selection...


3/16" is pretty heavy stock. 16 ga. galvanized formed sheet steel would be more than sufficient. 18 ga. formed steel is probably good enough structurally, and easier to work. From the pictures, keep in mind that the repair is being sistered to a basically intact structure. The repair just needs to bridge/strengthen the gap. (A personal on site inspection might change my reply.)

:2cents: vic
Yeah, I agree, 3/16 a bit much.
 

jtr210

New member
I'm loving all this input!

In the pictures, the front of the vehicle is on the left, rear to right.

There is a strap on the left. Nothing is missing.

The previous owner said his recollection of the towing three years ago is that the vehicle was pulled on the flatbed face first, so it's unlikely that tow job was the culprit, as the tear goes from front to back.

I can put some of my hand all way through the rear most part of the slice, above the bolt, and my fingers could touch the other side of the beam. I was able to barely put part of a fingernail under one of the bolts.

Here are a few more pictures...

...First is the beginning of the tear, front of vehicle to left. Next is a close up of the same section, with a tad bit of rust visible. This is the only rust I can spot anywhere. Third pic is from the rear facing forward. Fourth is close up of underside of rear bolt.

By the way, I'm in Colorado. Anybody wanna take a crack at this fix? :cool:
 

Attachments

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Just... WOW!!!

I definitely plan to try to have my insurance cover this as an act of vandalism.
Good idea. I wouldn't have thought to use insurance.

vic
 

Bobnoxious

Adeptus Trollarium
Was the vehicle stuck and pulled-out? Certainly a mystery.

Resembles a Jeep I saw cut in half by illegal space alien DEATH RAY, here's video proof!!! Happened in Burbank, CA.

 

MTGJR1

Active member
What are the vertical brown stains to the right of the transition from diagonal to horizontal on the left side and at the end on the right side? Does not look like shadow to me.
 

Shawn182

Active member
My money is on at some point in its life it was on an auto transport trailer and some jackwaggon driver used the fame hole as a chain tie down...and either load shift or forgot to remove that point when taking off the trailer. Too small of a rip for a tow truck hook but about the right size for a binder cain hook.
 

Kajtek1

2015 long/tall limo RV 2.1l
My first guess would be that somebody was pulling the van backwards on rollabed and that is how it happen.
Doing my conversion I noticed Sprinter van body made with very soft steel.
Meaning the uniframe is just sheet metal and doesn't take much to tear it like that.
When I was installing my gray water tank, I found the edge with double metal overlapping and only that made me feeling good for putting screws in.
Bottom line, whoever made it had no clue how unibody works.
 

manwithgun

Member
I’ll throw my hat into the ring with a guess. What if a long chain or strap was left hooked into the forward hole and was then driven away. As the flopping tailing would go beneath the rear tire it would rip a small segment until clearing the pinch point. Each time it would pass under the tire it would rip a new segment until it was trailing the rear axel far enough to be out of the wheel path. This would explain the “can opener” type sections...
 

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