thanksIf you are going to replace it, I would use a bogart engineering model. Very solid setup.
As a practical matter, 400 watts into a low end 30 amp solar charge controller might be a push.
There are some solar charge controllers that are more sensitive to wire / terminal interface details. Some will even go so far as to suggest both crimp and solder. I don't solder, but I do have a pretty high end crimper and am really picky about the wire. These controllers aren't just pumping out power, they also take measurements of the battery behavior to operate the charging details.
If you lived near Livermore, CA, you could just stop by the shop and we could try a few things.
I'm forced to say "not according to the manual" ....If you disconnected battery first with full sun exposure you could have fired the controller.
My Morningstar manual: To connect battery > PV, and reverse for disconnect.I'm forced to say "not according to the manual" ....
The manual says "connect the battery last" (with no "shade the panels" warning).
The LEDs have a specific state for "panels active, battery disconnected", so they seem to have thought about it.
That should work. A /50 might have given a bit more head room (400 / 12 ) is pushing 30 amps hard but will work.im impatient.
i bought the victron 100v/30amp mppt charge controller. pricey for sure, but ill feel better knowing it charges batteries better. and eventually I'll upgrade my solar panels. this just keep the system a bit more posh.
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Makes sense. We are operating with a 5 meter separation minimum / 10 meter goal and using even more isopropanol than normal. Mask, etc.thanks
this controller came with the van *shrug*.
sounds like I should be replacing it.
I'm in the north bay ca, but need this issue solved sooner than later. and due to SIP, probably hold off for a bit longer. thanks for the offer.
For safety I labeled which CB to disconnect first. I could have used DPST switch instead of CBs but didn't have a surface mounted one.GeoreRa: in my earlier reply to the original posting, i also expressed (extreme) surprise about "batteries last".
This controller is the first/only one i've met that does NOT specify "batteries first".
Many modern controllers use the battery voltage to determine if your bank is 12v or 24v, and then adjust themselves to operate that way.
I would fear (or strongly suspect) that putting an over-current panel on a cheap controller (i.e. PWM) might translate that final phrase into "..the output stage will act as a fuse"There is no harm with putting a larger panel on a smaller controller. Remember that a panels rating is nominal, and real world conditions are less than that, usually around 85% max 99.99% of the time.
If the panel can supply more than the controllers output stage is rated for, nothing will happen, the output stage will simply be the limiting factor.