Hodakaguy's 4x4 Sprinter Conversion - Pic heavy!
- Thread starter Hodakaguy
- Start date
Travelroqs
Active member
Hey Ryan...I did something similar to hodakaguy for the ceiling braces. I used aluminum c-channel. Rather than welding I used three inch aluminum L. I cut them into one inch brackets. Drilled two holes in each side. I riveted them on to the C-Channel, then riveted them onto the braces on the van. Was very tedious to make, but worked beautifully if you can't weld...
senator2001
Member
Hi @Travelroqs - What a cool idea! I’d love to see some pics of your setup. This sounds like an approach I might give a shot. Thank you for sharing it
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Day started of with an Awesome thunder storm....and one of the most vibrant red sunrises I've ever seen. This photo is straight out of camera.
More panel progress....
Drivers side lowers built and installed.....Nice!
This will be the power feed for our portable Dometic Refrigerator.
Time to get the forward ceiling panel wired back up with lights
Mike did a bang up job on the new panel, it looks great!
Feeding the wiring on the Genuine Marine lights back through the panel.
And trim ring back in place.
Installing the 3 way switches
Getting ready to wire up the switches and lights....again lol.
Wiring up the lights to the switch.
Continued below....
More panel progress....
Drivers side lowers built and installed.....Nice!
This will be the power feed for our portable Dometic Refrigerator.
Time to get the forward ceiling panel wired back up with lights
Mike did a bang up job on the new panel, it looks great!
Feeding the wiring on the Genuine Marine lights back through the panel.
And trim ring back in place.
Installing the 3 way switches
Getting ready to wire up the switches and lights....again lol.
Wiring up the lights to the switch.
Continued below....
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Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Continued from above....
I decided to use Flag style terminals (Available Here: CLICK HERE) this time around as the clearance behind the switch is limited with the insulation in place.
These style of crimp tools work good on Flag terminals
Some heat shrink added and the connection is ready to make up.
I also swapped out the ceiling wiring terminals over to Flag style for more clearance.
A flapper wheel made quick work on removing the sharp points sticking through the panel on the back side, don't need those wearing on wiring ect.
While I was prepping the Panel my buddy Mike at VanLab was trimming the B pillar plastic trim to fit with the new panels. Had to take a little material off the bottom edge to get the pillar to sit flush with the thicker than OEM panels. Fit's like a glove now!
Next up It's time to fabricate some tabs that will apply pressure to the back side of the ceiling panels and make sure they sit tight into the L-track. Some 1/8" x 2" Aluminum flat bar should do the trick.
Cut and Drilled...ready to install.
Tabs Pop riveted into place.
Some foam tape added to the ends of the pressure tabs to make a snug fit on the back side of the panels.
Wiring attached to the 3 way switch, panel is ready to be installed.
Anchoring the panel into place with screws, these screws will be hidden by the Maxxfan trim rings. Here I'm using a solder iron to seal the fabric where I'll be drilling the hole, sealing keeps the fabric from fraying over time.
Continued Below...
I decided to use Flag style terminals (Available Here: CLICK HERE) this time around as the clearance behind the switch is limited with the insulation in place.
These style of crimp tools work good on Flag terminals
Some heat shrink added and the connection is ready to make up.
I also swapped out the ceiling wiring terminals over to Flag style for more clearance.
A flapper wheel made quick work on removing the sharp points sticking through the panel on the back side, don't need those wearing on wiring ect.
While I was prepping the Panel my buddy Mike at VanLab was trimming the B pillar plastic trim to fit with the new panels. Had to take a little material off the bottom edge to get the pillar to sit flush with the thicker than OEM panels. Fit's like a glove now!
Next up It's time to fabricate some tabs that will apply pressure to the back side of the ceiling panels and make sure they sit tight into the L-track. Some 1/8" x 2" Aluminum flat bar should do the trick.
Cut and Drilled...ready to install.
Tabs Pop riveted into place.
Some foam tape added to the ends of the pressure tabs to make a snug fit on the back side of the panels.
Wiring attached to the 3 way switch, panel is ready to be installed.
Anchoring the panel into place with screws, these screws will be hidden by the Maxxfan trim rings. Here I'm using a solder iron to seal the fabric where I'll be drilling the hole, sealing keeps the fabric from fraying over time.
Continued Below...
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Continued from above...
Right on the money!
Now it's on to speaker installation and installing the power port for the fridge.
Here's the power port setup that I fabricated for the fridge power. There is a Blue Sea Marine cigarette plug on the top (Available Here: CLICK HERE) and a PowerLet port on the bottom. The PowerLet ports are great as they snap into place and won't vibrate loose going down rough roads etc. I always install a Powerlet port on the end of the fridge power cable for reliability. (Powerlet Ports Here: CLICK HERE)
Wired in and getting ready to screw into place.
I'm installing these JBL speakers in the new panels...they sound soooooo much better than the OEM units.
Speakers going in...
And installed. The fit and finish of the panels are great! If your looking for custom panels or cabinets Mike does great work!
The L-track stops short on the front for a tight fit against the B-pillar plastic.
Slider door panel curing and waiting to be installed.
With a severe thunder storm warning in effect and thunder not to far away we decided to call it a day and get both of our vans into the safety of Mike's shop for the night. More progress tomorrow.
More to come....
Hodakaguy
Right on the money!
Now it's on to speaker installation and installing the power port for the fridge.
Here's the power port setup that I fabricated for the fridge power. There is a Blue Sea Marine cigarette plug on the top (Available Here: CLICK HERE) and a PowerLet port on the bottom. The PowerLet ports are great as they snap into place and won't vibrate loose going down rough roads etc. I always install a Powerlet port on the end of the fridge power cable for reliability. (Powerlet Ports Here: CLICK HERE)
Wired in and getting ready to screw into place.
I'm installing these JBL speakers in the new panels...they sound soooooo much better than the OEM units.
Speakers going in...
And installed. The fit and finish of the panels are great! If your looking for custom panels or cabinets Mike does great work!
The L-track stops short on the front for a tight fit against the B-pillar plastic.
Slider door panel curing and waiting to be installed.
With a severe thunder storm warning in effect and thunder not to far away we decided to call it a day and get both of our vans into the safety of Mike's shop for the night. More progress tomorrow.
More to come....
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Rear ceiling panel is in!....
Fabricating the rear tension strips. These tabs will apply pressure to the bottom side of the ceiling panel and ensure a tight fit against the L-track.
Installing lights and switches in the rear panel. Using the solder gun again to melt the fabric where the screw holes are located, prevents the fabric from unraveling.
Installing the rubber bushings on the back side of the panel to protect the wires from chaffing
Wired Up.
Continued Below....
Fabricating the rear tension strips. These tabs will apply pressure to the bottom side of the ceiling panel and ensure a tight fit against the L-track.
Installing lights and switches in the rear panel. Using the solder gun again to melt the fabric where the screw holes are located, prevents the fabric from unraveling.
Installing the rubber bushings on the back side of the panel to protect the wires from chaffing
Wired Up.
Continued Below....
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Continued From Above...
Installing the tension tabs
Powered up...
Pinning the panel to the center braces.
These screws will be covered by the fans trim ring.
And installed. The fit up is really good!
These aluminum tabs are temporary supports for the panel to keep it from sagging, eventually the panel will be supported by the rear trim piece. The tabs are held in place with VHB tape for now.
Couple shots with the Fisheye Lens.
More to come....
Hodakaguy
Installing the tension tabs
Powered up...
Pinning the panel to the center braces.
These screws will be covered by the fans trim ring.
And installed. The fit up is really good!
These aluminum tabs are temporary supports for the panel to keep it from sagging, eventually the panel will be supported by the rear trim piece. The tabs are held in place with VHB tape for now.
Couple shots with the Fisheye Lens.
More to come....
Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguy -Progress........
Adding some additional sound dampening material, the whole family got into the game on this one.
Time to get this hole on the roof plugged up, I'm tired of putting tarps on the roof to keep water out of the van lol.
I fabricated an adapter plate to cover the hole that was left behind from removing the Roof AC and create a 14" square opening for the Maxair vent fan. I also made up 3 smaller covers that will seal up the smaller holes left by the AC wiring and hose connections. I covered the plates in Raptor Liner, Raptor Liner is a bed liner material that is very durable and holds up great over time.
Here's the adapter plate in primer, getting ready for the Raptor Liner to be applied.
Raptor Liner fully cured. Here the adapter is setting in place and getting ready to be permanently attached.
The adapter will be bonded to the roof with 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive.
Panel in place with adhesive applied. The panel is being held down with weights and clamps while the adhesive cures, no screws or rivets needed which helps to eliminate leak points.
Next up its time to cut the hole for the rear Maxair Fan. A little measuring, marking and a skinny wheel made quick work of this task.
Here we are cutting a blades width off each side of the fans base. By slightly trimming the base it will fit perfectly between the roof ribs without having to use a separate adapter plate to raise the fan base up, this gives a perfect fit and reduces the number of sealing surfaces and leak potentials.
The fan bases are sealed in place with Sikaflex 252 sealant.
With the bases cured in place I sealed the screws on the bases with Silaprene and sealed the edges of the black adapter/seal off plates with black Sikaflex 221 (Not really a necessary step but can't hurt
Good coverage of sealant squished down inside, nice waterproof seal.
Getting ready to install the fan unit
Continued Below...
Your van has inspired me to take another look at my situation and rethink the factory AC. I agree I don’t think its really needed so I’d like to remove it. Any chance you’d be willing to fab up another bracket to sell?
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
You can get some pre made adapter plates on Ebay, i would use panel adhesive instead of tape though like he supplies. Heres the link: CLICK HERE
You van also get a sunroof that fits the hole here: CLICK HERE
Hope that helps
Hodakaguy
Awesome! Thanks, I should’ve know Hein would have something like that. Will do on the adhesive. When disconnecting the AC, simple as having the coolant drained, pulling the fuse and then pulling out everything?You can get some pre made adapter plates on Ebay, i would use panel adhesive instead of tape though like he supplies. Heres the link: CLICK HERE
You van also get a sunroof that fits the hole here: CLICK HERE
Hope that helps
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Installing the trim rings on the Fans.
I ordered aftermarket Black trim rings from RB components to replace the white units that came with the fans. I like the looks of the black trim as it ties into the black light switches.
Fan unit ready for a trim ring.
Black and white trims rings...figured I would put them both up into place and see which one I like the best.
White....
Black...
And one of each...
Yep....I like the black trim rings! Now to install them for good.
Time to clean up the rear wiring. The factory runs the rear taillight wiring harness down the face of the pillar and then into the cavity at the first large opening. This creates a problem when trying to make a panel to cover the rear area as you have to work around the wiring harness. Time to move the wiring out of the way and make room for panels....
Here's a shot of the factory taillight wiring harness....Yep, in the way!
To pull the wiring harness out of the pillar the wires need to be removed from the factory connectors. Here the taillight connector has been unplugged from the passenger side taillight and I used my phone to make a quick wiring diagram so I can ensure the wires get replaced in the proper order.
Using a set of pin release tools to remove each pin from the connector. There is a small lock on each side of the connector and you need to apply pressure on both sides of the connector at the same time to get it to release. If you don't have a set of pin release tools they are super handy and very affordable. Pin Release tools available here: CLICK HERE
First carefully pry up the lock tab on each side with a thin screw driver and lift the tab up out of the way.
Then slide in the pin release tool on each side of the connector. Push to release while keeping tension on the wire and it will slide out the back of the connector.
And removed. You can see the two little catches on the top and bottom of the connector. The tool releases the catch on each side that grab onto these tabs.
There are two more connectors on each side above the taillight that you need to remove in the same fashion.
Connectors removed and the wiring harness has been pulled out of the pillar.
Continued Below....
I ordered aftermarket Black trim rings from RB components to replace the white units that came with the fans. I like the looks of the black trim as it ties into the black light switches.
Fan unit ready for a trim ring.
Black and white trims rings...figured I would put them both up into place and see which one I like the best.
White....
Black...
And one of each...
Yep....I like the black trim rings! Now to install them for good.
Time to clean up the rear wiring. The factory runs the rear taillight wiring harness down the face of the pillar and then into the cavity at the first large opening. This creates a problem when trying to make a panel to cover the rear area as you have to work around the wiring harness. Time to move the wiring out of the way and make room for panels....
Here's a shot of the factory taillight wiring harness....Yep, in the way!
To pull the wiring harness out of the pillar the wires need to be removed from the factory connectors. Here the taillight connector has been unplugged from the passenger side taillight and I used my phone to make a quick wiring diagram so I can ensure the wires get replaced in the proper order.
Using a set of pin release tools to remove each pin from the connector. There is a small lock on each side of the connector and you need to apply pressure on both sides of the connector at the same time to get it to release. If you don't have a set of pin release tools they are super handy and very affordable. Pin Release tools available here: CLICK HERE
First carefully pry up the lock tab on each side with a thin screw driver and lift the tab up out of the way.
Then slide in the pin release tool on each side of the connector. Push to release while keeping tension on the wire and it will slide out the back of the connector.
And removed. You can see the two little catches on the top and bottom of the connector. The tool releases the catch on each side that grab onto these tabs.
There are two more connectors on each side above the taillight that you need to remove in the same fashion.
Connectors removed and the wiring harness has been pulled out of the pillar.
Continued Below....
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Continued from above...
I'll be routing the wiring back into the pillar up high and out of the way of the panels. Here I'm using a Unibit to open up the small factory hole to accept the wiring harness through.
Next slide a rubber grommet up the wiring harness and then slide the harness into the new hole and back down the pillar.
Just slide the wires back into the connectors and they instantly lock back into place.
And...no more wiring in the way
Process was repeated on the drivers side.
Wiring now enters the pillar behind the wood fir strip.
Next up installing more panels...
Screw installed to mark the location where I decided to install another power port in the drivers side rear ceiling panel.
Cutting and drilling the hole for the power port. Again using a heat gun to seal the edges of the fabric.
Power port wired in.
Continued Below...
I'll be routing the wiring back into the pillar up high and out of the way of the panels. Here I'm using a Unibit to open up the small factory hole to accept the wiring harness through.
Next slide a rubber grommet up the wiring harness and then slide the harness into the new hole and back down the pillar.
Just slide the wires back into the connectors and they instantly lock back into place.
And...no more wiring in the way
Process was repeated on the drivers side.
Wiring now enters the pillar behind the wood fir strip.
Next up installing more panels...
Screw installed to mark the location where I decided to install another power port in the drivers side rear ceiling panel.
Cutting and drilling the hole for the power port. Again using a heat gun to seal the edges of the fabric.
Power port wired in.
Continued Below...
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Continued from above...
Panels going up. Velcro is installed on the back side of the panels and stapled in place. There will be 3 screws per panel as well as the Velcro for a nice tight fit.
Using matching colored Snap Caps for a finished Look. Snap Caps Available Here: CLICK HERE
Re-installing the LED Eyeball Light. This light will be for my son so he can have directional light while we travel at night. Light available here: CLICK HERE
Swapped out the black screws on the upper rear door panels with matching snap caps for a more finished look.
Coming together! Mike at Vanlab did an awesome job on the panels, They fit like a glove!
More to come....
Hodakaguy
Panels going up. Velcro is installed on the back side of the panels and stapled in place. There will be 3 screws per panel as well as the Velcro for a nice tight fit.
Using matching colored Snap Caps for a finished Look. Snap Caps Available Here: CLICK HERE
Re-installing the LED Eyeball Light. This light will be for my son so he can have directional light while we travel at night. Light available here: CLICK HERE
Swapped out the black screws on the upper rear door panels with matching snap caps for a more finished look.
Coming together! Mike at Vanlab did an awesome job on the panels, They fit like a glove!
More to come....
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
12V Charger Ports - What's best for your build?
This in my 4th video in a series highlighting build out tools and tips. In this video I cover the differences in 12v power ports, advantages and disadvantages of each and when you might want to use each style in your own build.
Hope you find these videos helpful.
Amazon Affiliate Links to the products I use. When you purchase a product using my link I get a small kickback from Amazon for sharing the link. I don't get paid to review products and only share links that I actually use and like in my builds. Thanks for the support :beer
Blue Sea Marine Power Ports available on Amazon Here (Face plate is removable): CLICK HERE
Powerlet socket available on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Powerlet 90 Deg Male Plug on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Hussel Metal USB 3.0 Car Charger on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Hodakaguy
This in my 4th video in a series highlighting build out tools and tips. In this video I cover the differences in 12v power ports, advantages and disadvantages of each and when you might want to use each style in your own build.
Hope you find these videos helpful.
Amazon Affiliate Links to the products I use. When you purchase a product using my link I get a small kickback from Amazon for sharing the link. I don't get paid to review products and only share links that I actually use and like in my builds. Thanks for the support :beer
Blue Sea Marine Power Ports available on Amazon Here (Face plate is removable): CLICK HERE
Powerlet socket available on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Powerlet 90 Deg Male Plug on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Hussel Metal USB 3.0 Car Charger on Amazon Here: CLICK HERE
Hodakaguy
8TrackDirtPlayer
Member
I'm really enjoying this thread, the quality of your work is top notch. Thank you for sharing your process, offering links for parts, and giving tool recommendations!
Hodakaguy
Well-known member
Door Speaker & Panel.
VanLab Mike finished up the panel for the slider door and we started to install it when we came upon a problem.....The speaker grill sticks to far out and won't allow the sliding door to open all the way. Once the door was about 3/4 of the way open the speaker grill would want to contact the body of the van, no good. We discussed a few options, changing out the speaker (But I already have 3 others mounted and want them all to match) or making some kind of recessed adapter. Solution below.....
Here's a shot of the speaker and grill mounted on the lower sliding door panel.....To High!
I thought about welding up an adapter, then though about making a ring of wood to attach to the panel on the back side and cover the edges in matching carpet. Mike came up with a much more elegant and factory looking solution. Here Mike printed my up a recessed adapter on his 3d printer to allow the speaker to sit flush in the door panel. Nice!!
The mount consists of two parts, first the recessed adapter that the speaker will sit in and second a locking ring for the back side of the panel that will allow clamping the speaker in place without any visible screws from the front.
Test fitting the speaker and grill in the adapter....nice!
Next up modify the door panel to accept the adapter.
Sealing the edges
Speaker in the vice and drilling the mounting holes into the adapter, the HUGE vice comes in soooooo handy for many tasks.
Bolts installed
Next up I used some scrap aluminum to make some mounting tabs for the rear of the speaker. Since you won't be seeing these ever again I didn't spend a ton of time making them Pretty
Continued Below....
VanLab Mike finished up the panel for the slider door and we started to install it when we came upon a problem.....The speaker grill sticks to far out and won't allow the sliding door to open all the way. Once the door was about 3/4 of the way open the speaker grill would want to contact the body of the van, no good. We discussed a few options, changing out the speaker (But I already have 3 others mounted and want them all to match) or making some kind of recessed adapter. Solution below.....
Here's a shot of the speaker and grill mounted on the lower sliding door panel.....To High!
I thought about welding up an adapter, then though about making a ring of wood to attach to the panel on the back side and cover the edges in matching carpet. Mike came up with a much more elegant and factory looking solution. Here Mike printed my up a recessed adapter on his 3d printer to allow the speaker to sit flush in the door panel. Nice!!
The mount consists of two parts, first the recessed adapter that the speaker will sit in and second a locking ring for the back side of the panel that will allow clamping the speaker in place without any visible screws from the front.
Test fitting the speaker and grill in the adapter....nice!
Next up modify the door panel to accept the adapter.
Sealing the edges
Speaker in the vice and drilling the mounting holes into the adapter, the HUGE vice comes in soooooo handy for many tasks.
Bolts installed
Next up I used some scrap aluminum to make some mounting tabs for the rear of the speaker. Since you won't be seeing these ever again I didn't spend a ton of time making them Pretty
Continued Below....