313 sprinter with Sprintshift gearbox

Oldfartt

Active member
When is the oil in the sprintshift gearbox required to be changed and how is it done?

Cheers

Ross
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
The advice in 2000 - when Sprintshift was introduced - was that the transmission was "sealed for life" and its oil wouldn't ever need replacing. Call me sceptical if you will but I just couldn't accept that advice at face value. Who was that advice actually aimed at? I really don't know who would believe it.

A policy of over maintaining my vehicles seems to have served me well thus far. I've done my Sprintshift transmission fluid annually for nine years now and its got well over half a million miles on it. That's a lot of shifting...

You have to remove part of the valve assembly to get access to the bung, it's not difficult but it takes bit more effort than a manual 'box.
 
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Oldfartt

Active member
My sprinter is year 2000 with nearly 200,000K on the clock. I saw somewhere that it should be changed at the first service and then every 100,000K. I have had the van for 5 years and done nearly 60,000k and have not changed the gearbox oil. No problems so far (touch wood!). Dont know if it was changed at 100,000k, hence the question.

Cheers

Ross
 

Iggy66

Member
Hello Ross,

Mercedes now state 300,000Km/10 Years (originally sealed for life) as the oil change interval for the Sprintshift gearbox, I changed mine at 185,000Km, 6,000Km after buying the vehicle, and the shift quality improvement was amazing. I filled it with Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 (same spec as Mercedes oil) and also added Nulon G70 PTFE gearbox treatment. If you need any more info regarding this gearbox just let me know.
Mean in Green is on the right track, oil is cheap, sprintshift gearboxes are VERY expensive. I think Mercedes only care that the vehicle gets through the warranty period and even 300,000Km is just crazy for any oil subjected to oxidation,shock and shear forces, let alone all the suspended metal particles from the running in process.

Cheers,

Mark
 
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Oldfartt

Active member
WIS recommends the following oils for sprintshift:

Exon Mobil Gear oil MB317
and
DaimlerChrysler MB 235.10 Schaltgetreibeol A001 989 2603

Looks like Castrol Syntrans 75w-85 with Nulon G70 PTFE would be an equivalent, as Castrol Syntrans is only specified for Manual gearboxes (non Sprintshift).

I suppose it will come down to price and availability will finally determine which oil to use.

I would appreciate it if a picture of the area where the filler and drain bungs are, was available, and maybe a short description of the procedure to gain access to the filler bung.

Cheers

Ross
 

moregoodstuff

New member
Hi. I know it a long time since you post this but did you manage to replace the sprintshift oil ? if yes can you let me know the procedure and where all the plugs are / thanks
 

Oldfartt

Active member
Hi Moregoodstuff,

Yes have replaced all the fluids in the sprinter except the hydraulic fluid used in the sprintshift gear control.

The gear oil I used is the MB 235.10 Schaltgetreibeol A001 989 2603. In NZ the only stuff available which is certified by MB. It is expensive, $52 NZD /litre and you need 1.5 litres So you have to buy 2 litres. This works out to be about $10/year on change every 10 years or 300,000kms. Do not use any other substitute oil. It is not just worth it. The cost of repairing/ replacing the transmission is huge compared to the cost of the oil.

To replace the oil:

1. Find the reservoir on the right side of the gearbox housing. It is held in place with a C clamp and two bolts. Remove a third bolt at the bottom front of the reservoir.
2. Pull out vent bleed connection on reservoir and swing the assembly away towards the back.
3. The oil filler plug can now be seen behind where the reservoir was.
4. Clean around the plug before removing. 14mm hex key plug is required.
5. The oil drain screw is found underneath. Remove and drain oil when oil is warm.
6. Remove metal particles off the drain plug. Screw in drain plug. Torque to 60Nm.
7. Fill with transmission oil.
8. Check the oil level with an allen key inserted into the oil filler hole and ensure that the oil level is exactly 10mm below the bottom edge of the oil filler hole. Do Not overfill. (and don't drop the allen key):yell:
9. Screw in the filler plug. Torque to 50Nm.
10. Reposition pressure reservoir, Oil vent bleed connection. and screw in the single bolt removed in item1. Do not tighten.
11. Position C clamp on reservoir and tighten all three bolts to 15Nm.
12. Arrange for Significant Other to make a cup of tea while cleaning up!

Cheers

Ross
 

Oldfartt

Active member
Cheers

Ross
 

Martin Duffy

New member
Gee this is all an interesting read.

From here on I will be instructing my mechanic to change the oil every 12 months which is about 25,000 km's for me.

I had to replace the hydrolic pump and relay at 125,000 kms and don't want to do it again!

I love the Sprintshift, think its totally brilliant but it can be costly to fix.

Go preventative maintainance!

thanks for the great posts

Martin
Australia
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
Annual fluid changes on my Sprintshift saw it reach 840,000 in nine years without ever needing to be opened up.

Pumps every couple of years on average, clutch kits around every 200,000.

A technically brilliant concept.
 

Martin Duffy

New member
Annual fluid changes on my Sprintshift saw it reach 840,000 in nine years without ever needing to be opened up.

Pumps every couple of years on average, clutch kits around every 200,000.

A technically brilliant concept.
I wonder why MB ditched the Sprintshift yet VW have kept their version?

so Mean_in_green r u suggesting u changed the hydrolic pump every 200,000'ks as well. based on u doing around about 100,000 ks a year?

Also how many engines in that time?
What size engine?

Gee thats alot of ks u do mate.
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
Don't know why Sprintshift was ditched, I got on famously with it during ownership. It was the van's best feature, although it's true to say that to a degree you have to drive the transmission the way it wants to be driven. I would have had another one if it had been possible anyway.

You can tell a tired hydraulic pump by how long it takes to build pressure at ignition on - listen outside and time the pump whine when you turn the key without starting. Around ten seconds or less is fine. A tired pump will take longer to build the necessary system pressure. It will still work, but may eventually leave you stranded unfortunately.

How many engines in 840,000? Just the one. Inline five / 2.7litres.
 

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