2006 leisure travel van INFO please

[hiya]

hello, i am considering buying a 2007 (2006 chassis) free spirit 210b on dodge sprinter. It has the 2.7, 5 cylinder diesel engine. The van only has 77 000 km. body and everything seems in good shape...............engine and transmission wise i am unsure of the reliability, expense of repairs, problems etc. I have heard great things about the T1N's...............would this be something to consider or is it wrought with problems.........any advice, comments, info, opinions etc greatly appreciated.................thx...............

 

[Zundfolge]

The answer is incredibly long. First things first, where are you located, then maybe someone can direct you to a sprinter-capable mechanic for an inspection. Very important to do this beforehand if you're unfamiliar with Sprinters...

 

[hiya]

located in Vancouver Canada

 

[hiya]

The answer is incredibly long. First things first, where are you located, then maybe someone can direct you to a sprinter-capable mechanic for an inspection. Very important to do this beforehand if you're unfamiliar with Sprinters...

i wanted user input not a mechanic, are you able to give me personal experience/ comments or advice ?

 

[Zundfolge]

Well, yes I am able to. But there are many many threads covering this subject, have you read any of them or searched for this info first? There are quite a few threads detailing low mileage vehicles like the one you're looking at, and the potential upsides/downfalls of that situation. The reason I suggested a competent mechanic's inspection is because they know what to look for from experience, rather than a bunch of randos on the internet typing about all of their personal experiences - naturally biased as to each's own history.

Short story, if you get a good-great condition, well-maintained van *regardless* of mileage it will likely treat you very well for quite a while. Some downsides of low mileage vans at this age is that certain soft components don't always fare well with age, but that's rarely going to be a dealer killer, just a thing you'll need to deal with.

How mechanically adept are you? These things are actually quite easy to fix, and most of the time easy to diagnose. You need a sprinter specific scanner (like the Autel AP200, MD-808, etc) in the van at all times. Period. When something goes wrong you need to know where to start looking, and a sprinter specific scanner will most of the time be step 1. If you post here and say I have a problem, everyone will ask "what are the codes?"

They're wonderful machines, they need care, and they're not getting any younger.

If you really want help with this decision post the link to what you're looking to buy.

Have you read any of this?

Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Search: 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 check inspect deal buy advice First a fitting quote from JD Caples before you read my tips. 12-31-2011 While problems detailed in forum postings (and entire threads!) are real and quite unnerving, they are not necessarily representative of everyone's...

sprinter-source.com

Or this?

Buying a used sprinter, how to avoid a lemon?

Hi all I think about buying a used sprinter. I have seen some sprinters on cars.com who could be potential candidates, crew versions with lots of extras, they are from 2013 and 2014 with low milage. But after reading about all the issues here I am a little concerned and wondering if there is...

sprinter-source.com

This

Tips for New to Sprinter Owners

Some General Information for Owners New to Sprinters I presume if you are reading this then you are new to Sprinters so first let me extend to you a hale and hearty welcome to the forum. The Sprinter has some quirks and differences that many people wouldn't be aware of even if familiar with...

sprinter-source.com

Plus this

Buying a Used Sprinter Van - Top Ten Problems to Look Out For - Sprinter RV

So you found a beautiful used Sprinter van you want, and you ask – what should I look out for? First off, get a proper inspection from a qualified mechanic, preferably one very familiar with Sprinter vans – the Mercedes Sprinter van is a complex beast! Have your mechanic use a full-featured...

www.sprinter-rv.com

 

[Nautamaran]

Hello from Calgary... three years ownership of a 2004 140” cargo conversion.
Just passing 200,000 miles, 50,000 mine. Van was a bit rough on purchase (wear items), but once ironed out has been great, and has taken us coast to coast without issue. But it has required regular maintenance and the odd intermediate-level repair.

It’s 14 years old. It will have creaks.
If you can do basic service yourself you’ll spend perhaps $500 annually on wear items and service supplies.
If you want to drop it at a shop for service you can likely triple that number, but this forum can help you avoid that if you wish. Finding a trusted T1N mechanic can be challenging, but they exist. The platform is generally reliable, but understand that troubleshooting them is an acquired skill, and requires the right diagnostic tools. These skills won’t be as commonly available as they’d be with something build on an E350 platform, but the E350 isn’t likely to give you 20+ mpg on the highway either?

Ask for service records, but with such low mileage I’d expect the soft items will need attention... out of sight out of mind. I’d expect to need a coolant and brake fluid flush. Look for corrosion on brake rotors, e-brake adjuster linkage. glow plugs? hoses? transmission fluid & filter.

I can’t speak to the RV build-out, but there are other sections here for the various builders.

Good luck!

-dave

 

[hiya]

Well, yes I am able to. But there are many many threads covering this subject, have you read any of them or searched for this info first? There are quite a few threads detailing low mileage vehicles like the one you're looking at, and the potential upsides/downfalls of that situation. The reason I suggested a competent mechanic's inspection is because they know what to look for from experience, rather than a bunch of randos on the internet typing about all of their personal experiences - naturally biased as to each's own history.

Short story, if you get a good-great condition, well-maintained van *regardless* of mileage it will likely treat you very well for quite a while. Some downsides of low mileage vans at this age is that certain soft components don't always fare well with age, but that's rarely going to be a dealer killer, just a thing you'll need to deal with.

How mechanically adept are you? These things are actually quite easy to fix, and most of the time easy to diagnose. You need a sprinter specific scanner (like the Autel AP200, MD-808, etc) in the van at all times. Period. When something goes wrong you need to know where to start looking, and a sprinter specific scanner will most of the time be step 1. If you post here and say I have a problem, everyone will ask "what are the codes?"

They're wonderful machines, they need care, and they're not getting any younger.

If you really want help with this decision post the link to what you're looking to buy.

Have you read any of this?

Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Search: 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 check inspect deal buy advice First a fitting quote from JD Caples before you read my tips. 12-31-2011 While problems detailed in forum postings (and entire threads!) are real and quite unnerving, they are not necessarily representative of everyone's...

sprinter-source.com

Or this?

Buying a used sprinter, how to avoid a lemon?

Hi all I think about buying a used sprinter. I have seen some sprinters on cars.com who could be potential candidates, crew versions with lots of extras, they are from 2013 and 2014 with low milage. But after reading about all the issues here I am a little concerned and wondering if there is...

sprinter-source.com

This

Tips for New to Sprinter Owners

Some General Information for Owners New to Sprinters I presume if you are reading this then you are new to Sprinters so first let me extend to you a hale and hearty welcome to the forum. The Sprinter has some quirks and differences that many people wouldn't be aware of even if familiar with...

sprinter-source.com

Plus this

Buying a Used Sprinter Van - Top Ten Problems to Look Out For - Sprinter RV

So you found a beautiful used Sprinter van you want, and you ask – what should I look out for? First off, get a proper inspection from a qualified mechanic, preferably one very familiar with Sprinter vans – the Mercedes Sprinter van is a complex beast! Have your mechanic use a full-featured...

www.sprinter-rv.com

thanks, just what i wanted..............i will continue to read....................Marty

 

[hiya]

Hello from Calgary... three years ownership of a 2004 140” cargo conversion.
Just passing 200,000 miles, 50,000 mine. Van was a bit rough on purchase (wear items), but once ironed out has been great, and has taken us coast to coast without issue. But it has required regular maintenance and the odd intermediate-level repair.

It’s 14 years old. It will have creaks.
If you can do basic service yourself you’ll spend perhaps $500 annually on wear items and service supplies.
If you want to drop it at a shop for service you can likely triple that number, but this forum can help you avoid that if you wish. Finding a trusted T1N mechanic can be challenging, but they exist. The platform is generally reliable, but understand that troubleshooting them is an acquired skill, and requires the right diagnostic tools. These skills won’t be as commonly available as they’d be with something build on an E350 platform, but the E350 isn’t likely to give you 20+ mpg on the highway either?

Ask for service records, but with such low mileage I’d expect the soft items will need attention... out of sight out of mind. I’d expect to need a coolant and brake fluid flush. Look for corrosion on brake rotors, e-brake adjuster linkage. glow plugs? hoses? transmission fluid & filter.

I can’t speak to the RV build-out, but there are other sections here for the various builders.

Good luck!

-dave

thx, i bought it.......................would you mind telling me the best place to buy the oil, filters, coolant, etc for the routine maintenance , is lordco ok ? or do you order directly from mercedes. Not sure what is the best place to purchase these items in Canada. Also, the fuel is about 4 yrs old in the tank, should i remove the tank and clean it or run it through and then change the fuel filter ?...................thx

 

[Nautamaran]

Welcome to the club!

Yes, you can “polish” old fuel by hot wiring the in-tank fuel pump at the Fuel Pump Relay (side of seat) to push the fuel out through the filter, running a length of hose into a barrel, then pour or syphon it back into the tank with a dose of fuel conditioner (like Power Service Diesel Suppliment (white bottle), or if it’s truly foul hire a disposal company to come get it... or drop it at a recycling depot (or paving company?)

Engine Oil
I use Mobil-1 0W40 European Car Formula, which is MB-Approved 229.3/229.5 This is a “Full SAP” oil and good for >10,000 miles (>16,000 km), though unless you have the Assyst computer you should change it there (or annually). Walmart, Cdn Tire, PartSource will put the 4.5 Litre jugs on sale at least once per year for about $35. Buy a few when you see them... it keeps. A sump and filter change uses 8.5 litres, and I keep the last bit in a small bottle for top-ups (though I’ve never needed to top up)
Any oil stating “MB-Approved” and any of 228.3 / 228.5 / 229.3 / 229.5 are fine.
The “Low SAP” formulas like 229.52 are okay, but on a reduced interval.
Avoid cheap filters. I’ve had a FRAM element come apart in my Jetta...
I bought a few Mann “HU718/1K“ elements on Amazon.ca

Fuel Filter: 20,000 miles (30,000 km)
It’s a bit spendy but don’t ignore this one. It’s cheaper than a fuel pump or rail.
Hengst H278WK (on line all day...)

Transmission Fluid
I use Shell ATF-134 (MB-Approved 236.12) which I order by the case of 12 quarts from NAPA (same price as 8 separate bottles.) The full Pan & Torque converter drain and fill uses about 8 quarts, then I keep the other 4 for a pan-only suck & fill mid-interval.
This is said to help control “Rumble Strip Noise” (a shudder felt when decelerating at slow speed, caused by a resonance in the torque coolant clutch control)
You’ll want to pick up a dipstick with “ears” and a scan tool that can read transmission fluid temp to dial in the fluid level (Autel AP-200 is an affordable one) DO NOT OVER FILL! The ATF Filter and pan gasket are reasonably priced at MB dealers.
(the gasket is reusable, but accidents happen..)
I change my fluid and filter every 60,000 miles (100,000 km)
It’s probably okay to run the filter for two change cycles (it’s a big “lifetime” filter) but I like inspecting/cleaning the magnet so swap filters while it’s open.

Brake fluid - every two years.
I looked around then bought 331.0 from the MB dealer. It was cheaper.
A one Litre bottle will refill the reservoir and gravity-flush the four brake lines, but a proper “active“ ABS solenoid flush uses a second litre. This requires a factory tool (Star C3/C4, or DAD if you can find one). A few “spirited” stops on dirt- or snow-covered roads will exercise the ABS pump and exchange some trapped fluid, but is not as effective as the real ABS flush cycle.

Rear axle / Differential: 2 litres.
MB 235.0 or 235.6 - Spirax MB90, or a GL-5 sae 90 hypoid gear oil.

Rad Coolant - five years. 10 litres.
NAPA has concentrated Valvoline Zerex G-05 “HOAT” coolant, but it’s usually behind the counter. Ask.
Mix 2:1 with water. I used distilled, but I’m on the dry side of the mountains.

That’s all I can think of... probably already in a write-up somewhere, but where’s the fun in that?

-dave

 

[hiya]

thx dave, appreciate it..........................

 

[tinman]

Welcome. We bought ours with about 30k km. a few years ago in your area. The previous owner had kept a basic log of repairs, mostly DIY and pretty much just oil changes and a resonator replacement. We're up to about 120k km. now, with no extraordinary maintenance except the AC condensor (chafe hole). I have done all the fluids except the diff., and as preventantive maintenance replaced belt, pulleys, tensioner, and all the hoses. There are a few tools that aren't typically in the box (inside and outside Torx). The upfit from LT has been problem free other than a couple of plumbing fitting cracks, I think a result of stress that was built-in at initial assembly. If you don't have good maintenance records, I would "baseline" it by doing the stuff Nautamaran has outlined, get a Sprinter-specific scanner, then get out and start having fun. Feel free to PM me if you have questions I might be able to help with.

 

[hiya]

Welcome. We bought ours with about 30k km. a few years ago in your area. The previous owner had kept a basic log of repairs, mostly DIY and pretty much just oil changes and a resonator replacement. We're up to about 120k km. now, with no extraordinary maintenance except the AC condensor (chafe hole). I have done all the fluids except the diff., and as preventantive maintenance replaced belt, pulleys, tensioner, and all the hoses. There are a few tools that aren't typically in the box (inside and outside Torx). The upfit from LT has been problem free other than a couple of plumbing fitting cracks, I think a result of stress that was built-in at initial assembly. If you don't have good maintenance records, I would "baseline" it by doing the stuff Nautamaran has outlined, get a Sprinter-specific scanner, then get out and start having fun. Feel free to PM me if you have questions I might be able to help with.

thank you, i will spend the next couple of weeks doing all of what you guys mentioned, as well as dropping the fuel tank and cleaning it out.............M

 

[justinrggauthier]

Hello from Calgary... three years ownership of a 2004 140” cargo conversion.
Just passing 200,000 miles, 50,000 mine. Van was a bit rough on purchase (wear items), but once ironed out has been great, and has taken us coast to coast without issue. But it has required regular maintenance and the odd intermediate-level repair.

It’s 14 years old. It will have creaks.
If you can do basic service yourself you’ll spend perhaps $500 annually on wear items and service supplies.
If you want to drop it at a shop for service you can likely triple that number, but this forum can help you avoid that if you wish. Finding a trusted T1N mechanic can be challenging, but they exist. The platform is generally reliable, but understand that troubleshooting them is an acquired skill, and requires the right diagnostic tools. These skills won’t be as commonly available as they’d be with something build on an E350 platform, but the E350 isn’t likely to give you 20+ mpg on the highway either?

Ask for service records, but with such low mileage I’d expect the soft items will need attention... out of sight out of mind. I’d expect to need a coolant and brake fluid flush. Look for corrosion on brake rotors, e-brake adjuster linkage. glow plugs? hoses? transmission fluid & filter.

I can’t speak to the RV build-out, but there are other sections here for the various builders.

Good luck!

-dave

I just came across this thread as I am looking at an '06 T1N 10 passenger sprinter. I'm in Medicine Hat, just a couple hours from Calgary. Do you know of a mechanic in Calgary? Or, as unlikely as it is, in Medicine Hat?

I don't see many ads for the passenger versions of these vans in Canada ever, so I'm considering this one. Everything I ever see if the cargo version, but I want to be able to haul 10 people, or camp in it with my 4 person family.

It's an 06 with 200k, for 18.5k. Any thoughts on price of that from a dealership?

 

[Cavah]

Well, That looks really clean..... as you mentioned, not many passenger models or people looking for them for conversion. Although there are not many “sprinter” mechanics, there are plenty of diesel mechanics that can do most of the more complicated repairs beyond many diy shade tree mechanics, as long as you thoroughly research the issues needing attention and source parts and troubleshooting sequences, you should be able to find a local shop to help you out. The T1N is far less complicated compared to the newer models. You can also do most all the maintenance yourself with all the info and help from other enthusiasts. That van looks clean which is a great sign of being well taken care of. I would def offer less, they prob got it for 8k trade in. Is it 200k miles or kilometers ? How long has it been for sale ? Have you driven it ? Check out the videos of what to look for when buying a T1N online. If on FB, join the “sprinter owners T1N” page. Be sure to start a new post In This forum for better response.

 

[justinrggauthier]

Well, That looks really clean..... as you mentioned, not many passenger models or people looking for them for conversion. Although there are not many “sprinter” mechanics, there are plenty of diesel mechanics that can do most of the more complicated repairs beyond many diy shade tree mechanics, as long as you thoroughly research the issues needing attention and source parts and troubleshooting sequences, you should be able to find a local shop to help you out. The T1N is far less complicated compared to the newer models. You can also do most all the maintenance yourself with all the info and help from other enthusiasts. That van looks clean which is a great sign of being well taken care of. I would def offer less, they prob got it for 8k trade in. Is it 200k miles or kilometers ? How long has it been for sale ? Have you driven it ? Check out the videos of what to look for when buying a T1N online. If on FB, join the “sprinter owners T1N” page. Be sure to start a new post In This forum for better response.

Excellent, will do. Much appreciated!

It does look fairly clean. I'm several hours away, and this is a few thousand more than our budget. Really, this is the van we want in 2-3 years, but it's tempting me a lot right now. So I'm wanting to do a lot of research before driving 5 hours to test drive a vehicle I'm not 100% convinced I want over a minivan yet. So I haven't driven it yet.

I am not a mechanic, but am capable of small-medium repairs on my own once the issue identified.

I've never purchased from a dealer, and have only ever bought through kijiji or private sellers. So I'm always shocked at prices at dealerships as they are usually 20-40% higher than private. Hard for me to know the norm or average.

It's 200 km's, and has been for sale for 2-4 weeks, which seems like a long time in today's used vehicle market. I would hope to get it close to 15k if we paid cash and didn't need any sort of financing.

 

[Cavah]

I bought my 2004 158wb passenger , sight unseen from Mississippi. I’m in Boston. Paid 1k to hold it, then sent rest later in day. It was exactly what I was looking for with very low mileage. I got From a dealer, but a decent price. these are like a minivan on steroids. Standup room, similar gas mileage, no emission def,dpf etc. keepus posted

 

[justinrggauthier]

I bought my 2004 158wb passenger , sight unseen from Mississippi. I’m in Boston. Paid 1k to hold it, then sent rest later in day. It was exactly what I was looking for with very low mileage. I got From a dealer, but a decent price. these are like a minivan on steroids. Standup room, similar gas mileage, no emission def,dpf etc. keepus posted

Love hearing that. I agree, The downsides seems fairly minimal. Will keep posted on what we do!

 

[Nautamaran]

Love hearing that. I agree, The downsides seems fairly minimal. Will keep posted on what we do!

At $18k that van should be spotless, and all the bells and whistles should work. Make sure you’re getting that and more: Engine should be tight, with little to no blow-by (“oil cap dance”) and no sign of injector leaks (remove the plastic cover and inspect). It should track straight and steer precisely (front end tight) Shocks should should dampen after first or second bounce. Brakes, ABS, and cruise control functioning.
Check that all the dash lamps glow before cranking.

I have a 140” cargo with added bench, a queen bed in the tail with camping gear under, and hammocks up in the roof area above the windows. This allows us quick overnight stops when we’ve got longer distances to cover. It works for us, but we’ll often pull an 8 foot cube for bikes and toys on longer outings, and we’ll pitch a tent for the kids if we’re camping in place.
The 140” is a nice size for city driving, but fills up quickly. The benches are HEAVY… so switching modes seats to cargo is a workout (nothing resembling “stow-n-go”…) The roof a/c ducting does cut into the 72” headroom, but helps cool the back. The dash a/c can’t keep up without it?

Do have it checked, but it looks great at first blush.

-dave