Another 170 Cargo build thread

moses

Member
Just putting together a build thread for my 170 4x4. Hopefully it is either interesting to some or will help others. Or possibly y'all can keep me from doing something dumb.
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Started yesterday by printing some switch blanks for the panels under the steering wheel.
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They don't fit the curves perfect but they snap in and don't rattle. I just chase the hole with the appropriate drill bit.
 

Surfsprinter4x4

New member
I just bought the same van (color too). The only difference I see is that you have black wheels, mine are silver/black (stock steel wheels- for now) How many rivnuts (approx) did you use. I am trying to figure what to buy, from where, and how much to expect to lay out. My van is a work van first and pleasure van second, but I am going to build it for weekend trips and of course work stuff...
 

moses

Member
V1 of electrical is in. At some point I'll be building a cabinet that will be a bed support and enclose all of this. I'll probably get to that once I get the inverter and the rest of the 120v equipment.

Charging is accomplished by a Renogy dc-dc mounted under the pass seat. Though i didn't seem to manage to get any pictures of it. I'll include some below later. It feeds the bussmann fuse in the first picture.

Little switch is for some lights under the bed platform. Large one is for the main lights in the van. It is a 3 way setup with the similar one on the B pillar.
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pretty standard stuff here I think
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Using Renogy 100AH lithium fuse is on the main positive there.
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for now shore power is just the 10awg cord sticking inside the van. Eventually the triple tap will be cut off and the blue cord will be wired to inverter with interior distribution downstream from there.
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moses

Member
Shore power is a smartplug, I routed out the floor and into the rear driver rocker panel where the exterior plug is installed.

Coming through the floor from the previous post.
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Entering driver rocker panel
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Smartplug!
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I still need to cut the leftovers down and put the RV plug on the cord.
Any recommendations on how long the shore power cable should be? This might be too much.3ONd5Te - Imgur.jpg
 

tommtber

New member
V1 of electrical is in. At some point I'll be building a cabinet that will be a bed support and enclose all of this. I'll probably get to that once I get the inverter and the rest of the 120v equipment.

Charging is accomplished by a Renogy dc-dc mounted under the pass seat. Though i didn't seem to manage to get any pictures of it. I'll include some below later. It feeds the bussmann fuse in the first picture.

Little switch is for some lights under the bed platform. Large one is for the main lights in the van. It is a 3 way setup with the similar one on the B pillar.
View attachment 144941
pretty standard stuff here I think
View attachment 144937
View attachment 144938
Using Renogy 100AH lithium fuse is on the main positive there.
View attachment 144940
for now shore power is just the 10awg cord sticking inside the van. Eventually the triple tap will be cut off and the blue cord will be wired to inverter with interior distribution downstream from there.
View attachment 144939
Thanks for the pictures. On the picture showing the positive wiring, what is the blue device between the 100 amp fuse and the the dc fuse block?
 

moses

Member
Thanks for the pictures. On the picture showing the positive wiring, what is the blue device between the 100 amp fuse and the the dc fuse block?
That is a Victron Battery Protect. It disconnects loads from the battery under configurable high/low voltage conditions. It keeps you from hitting the batteries internal BMS shutoff.
 

pfflyer

Well-known member
My shore cable is 25' and in 6 years I don't recall needing more. I got a cheap one with RV so I use it as a back-up to the one I bought from the van but have never used it.
 

MTGJR1

Active member
I think 25' is pretty standard on RVs. I also carry 50' 10 gauge extension just in case; more used when at someone's driveway than in a campground.
 

moses

Member
This Summer I've been using the van more than working on it. These next several might not be in the correct order but I'll do my best.

Starting off with some window covers as I was tired of hanging random curtains to block the light.

The Sewing was difficult to get to look good but it works well enough. We stacked ezcool, thinsulate 600 and some fabric together to make these. We then sewed the edge together and slid some magnets into the hem and stitched them in. They are a little ugly but it was a thick stack up and round corners are hard. I bought a second hand industrial sewing machine as I wasn't about to do it by hand like some have. I figure once I'm done with upholstery I can probably sell it for what I paid.
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Much help while laying out the side window.

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I haven't gotten the insulation on the front section yet as the weekend came and it was time to use the van and not work on the van. I just haven't gotten back to it yet.
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It looks like lots of light coming through but it's really not bad. before we put in the rear fan it was easy to sleep until 10 as it was so dark.


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moses

Member
Tore the Roof apart to add a second fan and air conditioner. I recommend doing all of this before you install the interior but you know... money.

Used plastic taped to the ceiling to catch the metal as I cut more holes in the roof.

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Painted the cut edge to prevent corrosion. I Just used some paint in a cup with a q-tip. Towel held below to catch drops. (again do this before you put your interior in.)

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Went with a Coleman Mach 8 13.5K BTU. My research showed that smaller units can't quite keep up when it is really hot out. I'm planning to use this van in the southern Utah desert in the summer so I went bigger. The running power doesn't seem to be that much different between them.

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Fans and the air conditioner were installed with Hein's adapters, I used flex seal to coat the outside. There is one continuous layer from the fan plate to the van body per his recommendation. I haven't noticed any leaks yet so it seems ok. The adapters are a little spendy but they make life really easy.
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All buttoned back up. I didn't get the air conditioner in until most of the way through summer. I only had a few opportunities but it was wonderful to have. I'll cover cabinets later. I don't seem to have much for pictures from that project.

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moses

Member
Short break for summer trip pictures.
Several from outside Yellowstone in October.
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This is probably September in northeast Utah. I try not to go places I really need the 4x4 but the low range is nice to slow things down a little. I have the ATV to satisfy that want to go crazy places, no need to do any serious off-roading in the van.
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moses

Member
Back to work with storage.
After hitting my head several times on the cabinet in a rental we had for a few days last year I decided I didn't want any solid cabinets at head level where the lower stuff was removable. Seeing as I'd like to have this van be reasonably easy to use as a cargo van that means no hard top cabinets.
I started with a tube of fabric bolted to the ceiling to hold the plywood base.

We then used the clips to take it in enough to make the bag the correct size. There were a couple revisions on this before I got it correct. Originally it was way too deep and made the counter below weird to use. Also on the first one I just used the canvas to hold up the weight and it sagged significantly. On V2 I used 3 pieces of webbing bolted to the plywood and through the top screw between the inner plywood and canvas to hold the bottom. This worked much better. I attached the back of the plywood with a L bracket connected to the wall L-track. So far I can't say what it feels like to bang your head on but with the rounded corner I don't expect it would be too bad.

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The doors are just cuts in the main fabric with zippers on the side. there is a Velcro flap across the top to keep it all closed.
This is the sewing machine I purchased to do the upholstery in the van. It is a beast and you have to make sure to keep fingers clear as it would sew right through them. Though on this particular project I don't think there was anything you couldn't do with a regular home machine.
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once I had the shape I cut the ends out and closed it up. My faithful helper returns for all these "lets lay stuff out on the floor" kind of projects.
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In progress, but this shows how it works. Just one large compartment on the inside. We tossed the idea around of adding a middle divider and decided against it. Just one large compartment works for now. If I change my mind it will be easy to add Velcro one. There is a strap support on each of the screws on the ceiling. So the shelf could sit in place without any of the blue canvas. The canvas just keeps it from sliding off.
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All buttoned up and ready for stuff. My paper towel holder is very sophisticated. A bungee cord between rings on the L-track. I have two rolls because the one with the design is a preloaded soapy one. Just get it wet and it has dawn soap inside. I'm not sure where I got them but haven't been able to find anymore. If you know please let me know as they are great for quick dish washing.
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moses

Member
Remember how I said the bed platform was temporary? Well here begins V2.
The goal was to have a solid mount for all of the electronics, support the bed, be low profile, and maybe have some storage.

Started with a basic rectangular box. Then added a platform for the batteries.
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Mounted the inverter.
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Started to get some flat spaces to mount equipment.
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Test fit in the van. It fits around the wheel well and uses the original D-rings to hold it down.

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Just under the L track so it is still usable from above.
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