Boardhead build thread

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Looking good, how are you planning to attach the galley to the floor. Will you have a table or slide-out cutting board, this would be a good time to think about it.

If you are going to attach drawer sliders on 80/20 slots I would recommend to cut ¼” x 1” x X" “jigs”, 4 per drawer, much easier to assemble. Using VHB I left them in place to provide additional enforcement.
 

Airtime

Well-known member
Looking good, how are you planning to attach the galley to the floor. Will you have a table or slide-out cutting board, this would be a good time to think about it.

If you are going to attach drawer sliders on 80/20 slots I would recommend to cut ¼” x 1” x X" “jigs”, 4 per drawer, much easier to assemble. Using VHB I left them in place to provide additional enforcement.
Good questions. In general my plan is to:
- bolt to the floor using the factory D-ring locations, and as few new locations as I can
- bolt to rivnuts in the wall in a few locations
- bolt the individual module frames together after installed in the van

So I'll need to locate some the holes in the van relative to the galley frame. I may attach with aluminum angle sections where necessary.

I plan a fold-up counter extension on the left side of the galley. We had that in our Airstream B-190 and it was very useful. I should be able to attach to the 8020 structure for that. I also plan a table that works for the two swiveling front seats. No plan on that yet, I've seen some good ideas including the one you did. I'll have to work out some kind of articulating table that folds away. I expect to attach it to the van wall behind the driver seat. I think that design should be independent of the galley module so I'm leaving that for later.

Thanks for the tip on the jigs. Not sure I have it pictured, I'll look at your build thread for more detail. I do plan to use Accuride drawer sliders as you did.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR

Airtime

Well-known member
On this post https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/21773/page-21#post-281928 see the picture #......163 you can see the plywood insert, I forgot I attached it with a screw but small ones with VHB.
It's a bit hard to see, I only see plywood in the back. Are these spacers with a length set to align the glides based on drawer height? With glides attached to 8020 vertical member, and the spacers in between the glides? You said 4 per drawer--do you mean front and back, one at each corner? I did not see any spacers in the front part of the frame.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
It's a bit hard to see, I only see plywood in the back. Are these spacers with a length set to align the glides based on drawer height? With glides attached to 8020 vertical member, and the spacers in between the glides? You said 4 per drawer--do you mean front and back, one at each corner? I did not see any spacers in the front part of the frame.
My pictures are not the best, sorry. You got it, they should be called spacers. For assembly from bottom up: set 4 spacers in, 2 sliders, 4 spacers etc.
 

Airtime

Well-known member
I've finished the panel designs for the 1/2" HDPE material for my galley doors and drawer fronts, fridge module drawer fronts, and shelf and backer boards for my electrical cabinet. I've generated DXF files for each part and sent to three CNC vendors--two in Portland and one local Idaho. They fit in one 4x8 sheet. I did a sample layout just to check--but in asking the CNC vendors they don't need a layout just the individual part DXF files. Their software will fit parts to the panel.
Panels.jpg
I also plan to do the same for the 1/4" panels that I will use for the rest of the cabinets, and compare that cost to what 80/20.net quotes online for their panel machining services (edge radiusing and corner notching only).

The 1/2" panels in my design include the following details in addition to the basic outline cuts:

Doors/drawers:
- 1/16" radiused edges
- Southco latch holes positioned to allow engaging with the series 10 slots as described above

Utility module panels:
- 1/4" edge notch to allow inserting in slots-
- 5/16" radius corner notches for internal connectors (will not be visible),
- 1-1/4" notches for the 1020 upper members for the side panels.

Looking forward to seeing the quotes and also any feedback I get on the DXF files and integration with their CNC process.
 

Airtime

Well-known member
How are you planning to attach these panels to drawers?
Good question! I was going to look at what you did and copy that! Although before I actually order I should confirm that detail. I plan to do Barker drawer boxes as you did. I am guessing counter-sunk screws from box into back of door, and I should add those features.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I was considering using inserts as I did in a few places in my conversion, but, too much headache. So I stayed with screws. Countersinking can be difficult, I just recently purchased a good tool to control the depth, to prevent over-drill, from BrownTool. I CNCed mounting holes, less work for me. For nuts, bolts and screws I primarily used McMaster Carr, they have excellent selection and quick shipping.

ZGR22362.jpg


dg.png
 

Airtime

Well-known member
I've finished the panel designs for the 1/2" HDPE material for my galley doors and drawer fronts, fridge module drawer fronts, and shelf and backer boards for my electrical cabinet. I've generated DXF files for each part and sent to three CNC vendors--two in Portland and one local Idaho. They fit in one 4x8 sheet. I did a sample layout just to check--but in asking the CNC vendors they don't need a layout just the individual part DXF files. Their software will fit parts to the panel.
View attachment 155211
I also plan to do the same for the 1/4" panels that I will use for the rest of the cabinets, and compare that cost to what 80/20.net quotes online for their panel machining services (edge radiusing and corner notching only).

The 1/2" panels in my design include the following details in addition to the basic outline cuts:

Doors/drawers:
- 1/16" radiused edges
- Southco latch holes positioned to allow engaging with the series 10 slots as described above

Utility module panels:
- 1/4" edge notch to allow inserting in slots-
- 5/16" radius corner notches for internal connectors (will not be visible),
- 1-1/4" notches for the 1020 upper members for the side panels.

Looking forward to seeing the quotes and also any feedback I get on the DXF files and integration with their CNC process.
Reporting back on my experience to date working with CNC suppliers. I originally sent .dxf files with the "all views" box checked when exporting. Multicraft in Portland wanted just a top view, then later asked for .step which they could read just fine. They were very responsive by the way, treated me as if I was a major account not just some DIYer getting one sheet of HDPE machined.

I also found a local CNC supplier just 5 minutes away!! My original .dxf files worked fine for them. Their software handles the nesting, so all I needed to provide was a .dxf file for each part. I had 13 total doors/drawer fronts of 10 different types, as shown in the picture I showed earlier. Their quote was $125 with customer-supplied 1/2" HDPE material. That seems pretty reasonable to me, considering how long it would take me to do it by hand, even if I had the tools.

I won't be able to try them for a few more weeks--I have a design change driven by a fridge door clearance issue that my CAD model made clearly visible. When I do, I'll report back on end to end CAD -> CNC -> assembly experience here.

Edit: Actually meant to post this in the 3D CAD thread since it is more about the process than about my build :) Will re-post there
 
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Airtime

Well-known member
I thought I was close to done on design a couple months ago and then went through a significant change. Everything in a van is inter-related, there are so many constraints. I'm glad I'm doing this part in CAD and not in my shop!

With winter here it's time to build it out. Here's a couple views of the updated design. Almost all major components are specified, layout determined, have bought most already. Still some remaining cabinet details before ordering rest of 80/20, Starboard ST panels with CNC machining, and cabinet hardware.
NE view 17 Nov 2020.jpg

And a view of the kitchen with the shower etc. hidden:
NW view of kitchen.jpg

Main drivers on changes:
- Wanted more width in hallway and at the slider entrance
- Want to go a week without any toilet smells, connections, or dumping chores
- Custom tank ideas did not pan out due to cost and an interfering brace in VS30 4x4s
- Adopted @gltrimble's 31" Transit bench seat layout

Galley
- moved oven from fridge cabinet to galley so I could lower the fridge and shrink the fridge cabinet depth 2"
- reduced galley from 48 to 45 inches.
- added a Mini Duo induction cooktop. Two burners, 1800W total, and flat glass in the counter is usable space.
- Isotemp Slim Square water heater mounted in back of sink bay
- hot/cold and engine coolant lines can route down through covered step area
- To do: finish and order doors, drawers, and 80/20; custom oven and stove ventilation; re-plumb Isotemp Slim Square connects with elbows

Bath
- Raritan Marine Elegance macerating toilet. Square back, narrow pedestal for more foot room, good reviews on sailing sites.
- Following @PNW Overlander's Van Wife shower installation, may do the same. Having trouble getting quotes on stainless.

Tanks
- 42g Fresh: Class A Customs T-4200 inside at left rear as before.
- 18g Sink Gray: Ronco RVB235 18 gallon sink gray tank fits well in the bottom of the galley, inside heated space.
- 26g Shower Gray: Custom Roto W-201 in long drivers side bay. 10.75" depth minimizes clearance loss to <1".
- 21g Black: Agile Off-Road spare tire tank. Uses tire mount, no fabrication or drilling, no loss of clearance.

Heating
- Espar D2 heater under passenger seat
- Isotemp Slim Square water heater in galley
- 1/4" Mini-cell and 1/2" Thermo-lite Tough in floor for minimum height loss, Thinsulate in walls and ceiling

Bench seat
- thanks again to @gltrimble for his 31" Transit bench seat example
- bought a new removal Transit seat--crash-worthy and with shoulder harnesses, and maximizes aisle space
- mounting on L-track allows seat to be placed either forward (for travel) or sideways (more space when just 2)

Bed
- Adventure Wagon Moab bed as posted previously
- wide height adjustment range with variable width panels
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Great work, congratulation. With this amount of water inside you could consider adding some internal baffles to prevent excessive splashing noise. I have a long 12-gal fresh water tank under the sliding door and if the tank is half full, I can hear a splashing noise.

One of our key objectives was openness and light so we have 360-degree windows visibility from inside. You could consider adding more light by adding a skylight or a marine hatch. Some of them are double pane. See this as an ultimate example of light entry through van’s roof. https://www.adria-mobil.com/vans/twin
 

Airtime

Well-known member
Great work, congratulation. With this amount of water inside you could consider adding some internal baffles to prevent excessive splashing noise. I have a long 12-gal fresh water tank under the sliding door and if the tank is half full, I can hear a splashing noise.

One of our key objectives was openness and light so we have 360-degree windows visibility from inside. You could consider adding more light by adding a skylight or a marine hatch. Some of them are double pane. See this as an ultimate example of light entry through van’s roof. https://www.adria-mobil.com/vans/twin
Yes I have room allocated on the roof for a Maxxfan and for a marine hatch. One space in between the shower and cooktop, planning Maxx fan there. It will let in some light through the tinted cover, but not a lot. I do also plan large windows in the slider and behind the driver seat. I plan to put the hatch in the back over the platform bed. Less cave-like, and can look at the stars :) May also fit a small skylight in the shower, we'll see.
I'm ashamed of my van now. :cry:
Ha! Thanks, but it's mostly just bits in a computer and parts on shelves right now.
The real challenge is attaching all that cabinetry safely to the van. Lots of test and check.

Looking good though. I like it.
Thanks! Yes, fitting the curved wall won't be CAD, just cut and try. And some spacers to take up any slack, I want a thermal break anyway. On the floor holes--measure 5 times above and below, do a small pilot hole, and proceed from there...
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
………………………………
- Isotemp Slim Square water heater in galley
………………………….
If I recall correctly you are planning to heat Isotemp with engine coolant. Engine coolant temperature can exceed a resettable thermo safety switch set temperature point disconnecting power to the Isotemp electric heater rod. If you are not planning to use shore power it is no problem but if you do you will need access to Isotemp to reset the switch.

Another option would be to run a second coolant loop to Isotemp. You will need a reservoir, flat plate heat exchanger and a pump. Pump could be disconnected if engine coolant temperature would reach 180F. Having a separate system from engine coolant would minimize potentially major engine problem due to coolant leak.

I have Espar D5 / Isotemp, controlled by EasyStart Timer (D5 + D2), without connection to engine coolant and would likely repeat the same design or go with Truma.
 

Airtime

Well-known member
If I recall correctly you are planning to heat Isotemp with engine coolant. Engine coolant temperature can exceed a resettable thermo safety switch set temperature point disconnecting power to the Isotemp electric heater rod. If you are not planning to use shore power it is no problem but if you do you will need access to Isotemp to reset the switch.

Another option would be to run a second coolant loop to Isotemp. You will need a reservoir, flat plate heat exchanger and a pump. Pump could be disconnected if engine coolant temperature would reach 180F. Having a separate system from engine coolant would minimize potentially major engine problem due to coolant leak.

I have Espar D5 / Isotemp, controlled by EasyStart Timer (D5 + D2), without connection to engine coolant and would likely repeat the same design or go with Truma.
Hmmm, interesting... I could find no mention of this thermostat trip point in the manual. I found a picture of the part, looks like rated at 96C +0/-6. So the minimum trip point could be as low as 194F. I'll have to find out what the VS30 engine thermostat setting is, can't seem to find that either but I would guess it is close to that. I can see where it would trip it on a hot day. If I can't reach it from under the sink, I'll put an access plate on the back of the galley. Thanks for the tip!

I'll use coolant heat mostly, as it is "free" and I'm usually on the move daily. But I do plan to use electric heat as well, whether shore power or off of my inverter. I'll have the battery and solar capacity to handle it when I need it.

I don't think I'll add the complexity of another heat exchanger and pump. I think two coolant lines from engine bay to under slider door should be safe and well protected. I've never seen an engine coolant leak in recent decades.
 

Attachments

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Hmmm, interesting... I could find no mention of this thermostat trip point in the manual. I found a picture of the part, looks like rated at 96C +0/-6. So the minimum trip point could be as low as 194F. I'll have to find out what the VS30 engine thermostat setting is, can't seem to find that either but I would guess it is close to that. I can see where it would trip it on a hot day. If I can't reach it from under the sink, I'll put an access plate on the back of the galley. Thanks for the tip!

I'll use coolant heat mostly, as it is "free" and I'm usually on the move daily. But I do plan to use electric heat as well, whether shore power or off of my inverter. I'll have the battery and solar capacity to handle it when I need it.

I don't think I'll add the complexity of another heat exchanger and pump. I think two coolant lines from engine bay to under slider door should be safe and well protected. I've never seen an engine coolant leak in recent decades.
Another option which I chose was to “reposition” the thermal sensor attached to the thermo trip and avoid the nuisance trips. The thermo safety trip is set at 205F and will trip on hot days and extended uphill climbs. I moved the sensor from the center core of the Isotemp to just outside the core. It has only tripped once since then. I did add an access port in the plastic cover to reset the switch but not an easy task for me since my Isotemp is under the van. The thermo safety switch is intended to stop a runaway electric heating element. The Isotemp has a pressure relief so it should function regardless if the tank exceeds boiling temperature.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I followed Hein drilling a hole for resetting the thermo-switch. He has his Isotemp under the hood heated by engine coolant. Since I didn’t have a problem but am careful to have water in the Isotemp before turning electric heater on.

 

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