3/16" angle and flat connectors work well with 15 series. I use 5/16" carriage bolts. No need for machined connectors. For angles at least one of the holes needs to be 1" from the angle apex so nuts do not hit.There's more to consider than just the deflection of the material. I stopped using 10-series because I wasn't happy with the strength of the small 1/4-20 fasteners. The 15 series accepts 5/16" bolts, which are 66% stronger. I love working with the 15-series.
-Ken
There's more to consider than just the deflection of the material. I stopped using 10-series because I wasn't happy with the strength of the small 1/4-20 fasteners. The 15 series accepts 5/16" bolts, which are 66% stronger. I love working with the 15-series.
-Ken
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If using the carriage bolt connection method then I totally agree with Ken on this. However using the official 80/20 or T-slot connectors and bolts is a different story. Single connections with 10 series extrusions floating in the breeze can feel flimsy compared to 15 series, but once structures are all bolted together, the 10 series is very strong and sturdy. 1/4-20 carriage bolts break very easily; 1/4-20 T-Slot bolts on the other hand are all grade 8 and I have yet to break any of them.
I started my build using 15 series on Ken's advice, but I switched to 10 series for the majority of my build to save on weight once I realized the strength of a completed 10 series structure.
Shawn -Price out 1 5/8" Aluminum Strut from McMaster Carr. Stronger and cheaper than 80/20 even with shipping.
3/16" angle and flat connectors work well with 15 series. I use 5/16" carriage bolts. No need for machined connectors. For angles at least one of the holes needs to be 1" from the angle apex so nuts do not hit.
Hi, yes, those can be attached to wood, E-track, L-Track, 80/20, ...What about the Ikea Skorva bed rails I've seen others talk about here? That's what I'm planning to use for my removable bed platform. Probably supported by angle on the sides, with ply for the platform.
Hi Hein, Is this bed anchored to the wall or floors? Are there any more pictures of this bed design anywhere? I like it a lot! Thanks for sharing!
What do you think the best attachment method for the Skorva would be of those you listed? I am just learning about this as a bed option and am trying to figure out best method of attachment, since these rails are only $15 each and in stock near me. Thanks!!Hi, yes, those can be attached to wood, E-track, L-Track, 80/20, ...
'Best' will depend if you have cabinets under the bed, height of bed, and your preferences e.g. wood vs metal.What do you think the best attachment method for the Skorva would be of those you listed? I am just learning about this as a bed option and am trying to figure out best method of attachment, since these rails are only $15 each and in stock near me. Thanks!!
Have you worked it out? Just asking for I'm in the process of coming up with a fold up bed myself.Haven't tested yet, but since I'm making a fold up bed, going to look at using a hollow core doors from the Habitat Restore. (2) 32" doors would be perfect size in both width and length for our design. Will add removable cross
What size 80/20 did you use for your cabinet frames?I did something similar in my NCV3.
For the ply I used 3/4 inch and covered it with automotive fabric using 3M spray adhesive and then used furniture tacks to secure the ends of the fabric to the ply.
I did not use 80/20 to build my bed but did use 80/20 to build out the rest of the interior. I think this happened because I did the bed before I bought the 80/20 so I wasn't really considering the material. The way I built my bed I'm not sure I could use 80/20 but anyway, here are a few photos.
In the first photo you can see a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 inch steel tube with 1/8th inch walls and had a buddy weld the 1x1 inch 1/4 inch angle to the top of it. Don't do this! The 1/8 inch walls were so thin that my buddy often broke through the steel. Overall it did work and after some time with the wheel grinder I was able to make it look nice. Using this method allowed me to drill holes through the tube and attach my hinges. When all the bed pieces are flat, the plywood rests on the steel angles.
The second photo is probably the only one I have of the 2x2 inch steel angle I attached to the van walls using 1/4 inch threaded plusnuts (photo 3).
Fifth photo shows the bed in its many pieces. The rear folds up so it can be a sofa. The front also folds up and gives access to a storage compartment .
Photo four shows the storage space under the front of the bed before I added wood.
Sorry some of these photos are upside down. They are all correct on my computer but something goes whacky when I upload them.
1.5 inchWhat size 80/20 did you use for your cabinet frames?
Old thread but good to continue conversations. I saw your vid on the foam core bed platform and your design has a support in the center. What about spanning the entire width of the van. Do you think this design would work to span the entire 70" or so??I would not use 80/20 for platform supports. Consider a platform using a core of rigid polyiso with 1/4" plywood faces. It would be light weight and insulated. Make in two parts so panels could be loaded into van?
My bed platform consists of 4 hinged panels that store against the walls and fold down to sit on top of the table to create a bed platform. The reason for this design was enable the front two panels to be stored against the walls to expose 1/2 the tabletop so there is a place for two people to sit at a table during the day.Old thread but good to continue conversations. I saw your vid on the foam core bed platform and your design has a support in the center. What about spanning the entire width of the van. Do you think this design would work to span the entire 70" or so??