Click no start

NotSure 92

New member
Not sure what to do at this point. My sprinter 2006 Dodge 2500 will not start. Single click, no turn over. This happened 3 months ago I disconnected the battery terminals and tied them together for 1hour, van started up no issues till the other day. Now it's every time. And if I do the battery reset procedure it takes over night before it will start, which is still not 100 percent working. Things that have been done.
-Starter was replaced within the last 8 months
-Battery tested good at interstate today
-SOS diagnostics just returned our ecu and skreem module as reprogrammed, worked in test vehicle before sent back to us.
-I have voltage across starter relay pins 86 and 85. Pin 30 has continuity to ground and then shows voltage when trying to start.
-Starter relay clicks when I key on the ignition then again when I turn to start.
-Used jumper cables from battery ground to engine to help determine if I have bad ground.
I don't know what to do. The van is our home, the wife needs it this weekend for work/traveling two hours away. I really need to figure this out asap. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

-reed.
 

NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter
It can be a frayed wiring harness, common around the fuel filter rubbing it.
It can be a worn or lose steering wheel fusebox or starter switch. Sometimes lifting up on fuse box while pushing down on emergency flasher switch can identify a lose fuse box connection as it will startup
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
Employ the "jiggle" method described in 2006 service manual. While holding the key in Start position, jiggle fuse box and related wiring.
 

koenb

Active member
Does the large power cable to the starter have voltage (should be hot fed from bat) and does the smaller relay wire at the starter get voltage when key is turned. My thought would be don't rule out the starter without testing just because it was replaced in the last 8 months. If power is reaching the starter, either of the "pull in" or the "hold in" solenoid windings could have opened and reading down relay pin 30 to ground would not detect this. Solenoid on the starter could have failed. Worth ruling out FWIW. See wiring diagram 8W-20-6.
 
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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
If the output side of the starter solenoid is getting 12V when you turn the key, then the starter solenoid is stuck or has burned contacts. A new starter, or rebuilding the current one is required at that point.

If you are not getting 12V at the solenoid output when the key is turned to start, then you have another issue, and you need to back track the power flow until you find the source.

Consult the wiring diagrams for the starter system, its a chain of events, and a break in the chain results in no starter actuation.
 
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BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
Have you scanned your ECU for codes? If your Cam sensor isn’t sending a signal for instance, that can cause a click no start issue, along with a bevy of other possible causes.

You should hear the fuel pump relay activate when you turn the ignition to the first position and the starter click only in the second (cranking) position.

Check your other grounds. Try running the jumper cable from your battery negative post to the ground lug on the firewall, check the ground(s) under the drivers seat.
 

vanski

If it’s winter, I’m probably skiing..
Since you’re getting a click at the starter relay I don’t think this will work, but worth a shot anyhow.. try pulling the wiring harness back towards the ECM to see if you have a bad connection at the back of the ecm....
 

Brokecanadian

2005 Cargo 2500 SHC NA
I had a weak starter once. I simply removed the starter and hooked it directly with a battery on the driveway. Old starter spun, but new starter took off across the driveway (best to secure starter even if you just step on it)

Hands dirty, or open the wallet, as a shop might potentially get into some expensive diagnosis with wiring.

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
 

Zundfolge

Always learning...
I'm not joking here, and I can't believe no one's said it yet, but have you lovingly whacked the damn thing with a wooden mallet? It's quick, and worth a shot.
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
Grab the ground cable at the battery and wiggle it. They always fail. If that doesn’t do the trick check the block grounding strap it bolts on near the fuel filter and goes to the frame. you can use a jumper cable, one side to the negative post on the battery the other to the engine block or the grounding bolt on the firewall above the battery.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Okay, now you need to work backwards from the starter to the starter relay. Confirm good voltage at the starter. Best to measure with a volt meter while someone cranks the engine. You are looking to measure between the starer body and the small control wire from the starter relay. If that voltage is low, but not zero, then you have a wiring issue between the relay and the starter. If its zero, move upstream to the relay.

The relay gets its ground from the ECM and 12V from the ignition switch. The ecm supplies ground when it finishes the key chip check with the SKREEM. THe 12V comes when you turn the ignition to start.
 

vanski

If it’s winter, I’m probably skiing..
Every time I’ve seen no start due to can comm issues I haven’t seen start error in the IC; TCM and Shifter module in the two recent cases. I always thought the start error was screem related.. sure would have been nice if the IC told me it was a start error due to those can come issue!
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Your right, if its just the ECM, and the skreem and cluster can talk to each other, then the SKREEM would just sit their waiting for the ECM.
 

NotSure 92

New member
i have 12v hot all the time on positive cable to starter. When im testing to see if the starter voltage during crank, where am i putting the leads for my multi meter?
One on the case for solendoid? and the other goes on the smaller lead that comes from the relay?
 

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