Help identifying broken part please

sparkplug

Well-known member
Van has been running a bit rough so I thought I'd try cleaning the EGR valve.

The valve itself had been stuck back on with some silicone sealant and the gasket was in quite poor condition.

The previous owner has done some terrible things to this poor van and I keep finding new ones.

While taking the EGR off I spotted some electrical tape around a connector or sensor of some sort and this set off alarm bells.

This is where the 'sensor' (or whatever it is) is located.



and this is what was under the electrical tape :blast



I've no idea what this is, or where the other end of the lead goes. What I do know is that it needs replacing rather than covering over with sticky tape. :censored:

Any clues as to what the thing might be?

How do you even break something like that? Hoping I can order it tomorrow along with a new EGR gasket.
 

98Firebird

Well-known member
That's the coolant temperature sensor. Somebody probably broke it prying on the housing to get the sensor out so you may be in for a challenge in trying to replace it.
 

sparkplug

Well-known member
Thanks 98Firebird - Looks like you're right.

Part A0009056102 as far as I can tell.

Does anyone know if the cable is replaceable or if it just runs into the loom?

Or what the connector is?





 
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manwithgun

Unknown member
I’ve had good luck sourcing wire harness parts/connectors/terminals from Ballenger Motorsports but Mercedes should also carry them as either crimp on terminals or “repair leads” with wire already attached. Up to you to decide your splicing method. Much depends on how much effort the parts guy is willing to invest in your issue. And of course you’ll also need a new sensor.

Ballenger : https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109

Kostal @ Ballenger : https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109_211/page/1/sort/6a


Crimper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KFLY43/ref=dp_cerb_2

If everything is still functioning, want to leave well enough alone, and don’t mind a ghetto patch, you can also bond/seal it with liquid electrical tape....
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bend...d=1582521939&sprefix=Liquid+el,aps,211&sr=8-3
 
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sparkplug

Well-known member
As always I have had some good news, and some bad news.

The good thing is that my dealer not only managed to identify all the parts for me, but also had everything in stock!

Slightly different part number for mine than the one I though it was going to be (A099 905 38 00) but I also got the right connector and cables for the loom repair kit.



The invoice also includes a replacement EGR valve gasket so I'm happy with all of those parts for $38

What I'm not happy about is the disaster which has been trying to remove the old part.

Previous owner had obviously engaged in a bit too much of the 'brute force' attack as not only had he managed to destroy both ends of the connector, but the aluminium housing for the clip just fell off so he must have weakened that as well. The plastic part of the connector had become unbelievably brittle and there was no way of pulling it out. It just crumbled into almost a powder.



I scraped out as much of the crumbling plastic as I could to reveal the copper and drilled a screw through it so that I could try to pull the screw to get the whole thing out.



However this seems to be stuck fast (galvanic corrosion maybe?)

I've decided to pause here and have a think before I end up doing damage.

Any suggestions on how to proceed gratefully received. I'm considering using a drift and hammer and gently tap it to try to break the seal.

I'm considering applying some WD40 or penetrating oil to see if that frees it up.

I'm considering drilling it out - but I'm worried about where the swarf will end up, as well as the risk of the drill damaging the soft aluminium.

Coffee break while I think.
 

showkey

Well-known member
The fact there’s kit with all the needed components means there’s a known service issue.

Apply a little heat with air Heat gun ? Might break that galvanic corrosion?

Does the cover or casting where the sensor is stuck in.......come off as the next largest component?
 

dharmasprint

Well-known member
Penetrating oil is best. Any possibility of heating up the parts? Not sure if a torch would be appropriate but maybe a heat gun to aid the penetrating oil.
 

manwithgun

Unknown member
I’d hope that where it’s stuck is the wide gold flange between the o-ring and plastic. If you could somehow get the lip to fold down with a pick or small chisel/screwdriver, it may free up or give you a surface to grab with needle nose pliers; plus penetrating oil. At least the actual coolant sealing surface @ o-ring should not be compromised. It looks like you may have already attempted to sink a wood screw into the center. Did it bury firmly enough the grab the head with pliers and tap lightly outward like a slide hammer?

EDIT: If all else fails, and before drilling out, maybe a small pilot hole drilled all the way through the center to then thread in a long, slightly larger wood/sheet metal screw that could find purchase in the metal sensor body tip. Then grip with pliers and tap outward. Of course, you’ll be full committed after penetrating the coolant barrier!

And don’t forget to mind the loose wire ends resting on the block. Key on is likely to cause a small short. Best practice is to disconnect ground before dealing with electrics.
 
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sparkplug

Well-known member
Thanks manwithgun.

Disconnecting the battery is a reflex for me with any electrical work but thank you for mentioning it because it is important.

I tried penetrating oil with no success.

I tried a heat gun with no success.

I tried screwing a big screw through the sensor body and got some really good leverage on it with no success.

I tried very gently tapping the brass away from the aluminium and managed to get some long nosed pliers on it with no success



My next plan is to try to remove the aluminium 'part' (no idea what to call it) from the engine. It looks like this is held on with three torx bolts, one of which is incredibly inaccessible.

Depending on the cost of a replacement part I might just buy a new one which would mean I don't need to remove this sensor and it would give me peace of mind given the damaged clip holder.

Otherwise it would mean I can work on the removal of the sensor from both sides and without the confines of an engine bay.

I've already discovered that removal of the coolant hose from the radiator results in you dumping all your coolant - but that's the least of my problems.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Sparkplug
Reading this reminds me off a Sgt Major approach.
Look we can do this the right way or the bloody hard way.

The right way is simply to remove the whole stat housing and toss it in the dust bin.
Fit a new one comes with the sensor. Done done and done!
I can see going to such lengths if it was a rare vintage machine like an Hispano Suiza but its just a Mercedes and that whole is as as cheap as chips!

(Even I might add a salt & fancy vinegar flavour with a pint at the local pub! (with say Tetley's bitter)

I can see me dicking about with that thing on the side of the M4 in the pi$$ pouring rain
(NOT).
Simpy replace it!
Maybe even flush the cooling system if you have the time.
All the best
Dennis
 

manwithgun

Unknown member
Damn. I’m really hoping that I didn’t steer you wrong. My experience is only with the OM642 V6 so I don’t know the layout for housing removal. For E-torx that can’t be accessed from the front, I’ve found that a ratcheting 8mm 12-point will do the trick. For standard torx, a 1/4 bit can be turned with a crescent, open end, or mini 1/4 ratchet. Use lots of luck, patience, and persistence.
 

Attachments

sparkplug

Well-known member
The right way is simply to remove the whole stat housing and toss it in the dust bin.
Fit a new one comes with the sensor. Done done and done!
I came to the same conclusion. New housing, gasket and sensor is $65. I just ordered one and should get it in a couple of days.

As you correctly said, it's just not worth the time and effort to do this any other way.

Damn. I’m really hoping that I didn’t steer you wrong.
Not at all! I've managed two of the bolts and have left the last one until tomorrow as the light was fading, as was my patience!

Flushing the coolant system sounds like a good idea. I've no idea how to do it as my last car in 1997 was air cooled and all my motorbikes since then have also been air cooled.

I'm sure YouTube will come to the rescue once more!

All part of the fun and the learning curve.
 

sparkplug

Well-known member
Well, YouTube has shown me how to flush the coolant (pretty straight forward) but I'm struggling to find what the recommended coolant for the 311 is.

The stuff that was in there already was pink.

I've seen Comma Xstream G48 as an 'approved' option, but that's blue / green and from what little I've read you shouldn't mix the different types (or maybe it's OK if you've flushed it?)

Off to do some more reading, but if anyone has an answer to the "what coolant" question then I'd be grateful.
 
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4wheeldog

2018 144" Tall Revel
Well, YouTube has shown me how to flush the coolant (pretty straight forward) but I'm struggling to find what the recommended coolant for the 311 is.

The stuff that was in there already was pink.

I've seen Comma Xstream G48 as an 'approved' option, but that's blue / green and from what little I've read you shouldn't mix the different types (or maybe it's OK if you've flushed it?)

Off to do some more reading, but if anyone has an answer to the "what coolant" question then I'd be grateful.
With coolant, color has nothing to do with makeup. You want HOAT coolant, color unimportant.
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Well, YouTube has shown me how to flush the coolant (pretty straight forward) but I'm struggling to find what the recommended coolant for the 311 is.

The stuff that was in there already was pink.

I've seen Comma Xstream G48 as an 'approved' option, but that's blue / green and from what little I've read you shouldn't mix the different types (or maybe it's OK if you've flushed it?)

Off to do some more reading, but if anyone has an answer to the "what coolant" question then I'd be grateful.
If you look at the owners handbook extract that Vic (AP) posted in the ATF fluid discussion in Sprinter Talk then anything that meets BEVO 325.0 will do...

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/325.0_en.html

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83432

Keith.
 

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