Serapis Sprinter
Member
Good deal! I will give it a go tomorrow and report back with my results.
Agree on gravity - I had one used D2 that I fixed that ran fine if I rotated the heater 90 degress with the exhaust and intake coming out the side. Turning it to the ports down position made it flame out. Replacing the burner fixed this. I didn't dissect the burner but suspect the mesh in the one position was shot.I believe that during operation gravity plays an important role in spreading the fuel and fuel vapor across the burner mesh. This in turn heats the mesh in that area preventing it from coking. So if the unit is too far off of level some areas of the mesh don't get hot enough to routinely burn off any buildup. I made a wedge spacer for mine to bring it closer to level, I believe it was just under half an inch thick on the low side tapering to nothing on the high side. YMMV.
Sounds like you’ve done everything right. Just two things to consider looking into and both have to do with proper fuel mixture and delivery. Could it be that at the junction where nylon fuel lines meet inside one of the little rubber tubes there is either a tiny gap or a slight bend between the two hard nylon lines? Or perhaps if you have an arch in your line somewhere the tiny air bubbles that normally flow with the fuel can accumulate to form larger bubbles. Either situation can introduce excess air in spots causing the fuel:air mixture to be off target for clean efficient combustion which I assume may trigger a fault code. Since it was running fine and is now acting up, I wonder if use and driving have introduced a bend of some kind and a source for air to accumulate. The puff of smoke may not be anything related, or maybe you have a lean fuel mix being burnt on start up? Just a guess on that last idea.Here's another similar but different problem...
Espar D2L S2, EasyStart Pro controller, purchased from Heatso in May of this year, installed last week. Total run time ~7hrs.
Installed in a 2022, under the passenger seat; combustion intake goes forward to just behind the mudflap (90° bend under the heater and wide 90° bend, with the intake hose vertical). Combustion exhaust runs a steady down slope approximately 1 meter, including muffler, and exits at the leading edge of the sliding door. Power comes from a 700aH battery bank at everything from 50%-99% state of charge
Fuel feed is a Doorman adapter from the factory fuel port, via rubber adapter hose to the small blue line, 12" to the fuel pump. Fuel pump is at approximately 25° upward slope, and fuel line goes another 10-12" to the filter, and then across (over heat shields) to the heater. Every fuel joint the small plastic line is bottomed out with no gap.
The heater starts right up, with a very slight puff of white smoke on start occasionally and produces plenty of heat, however, after between 60-90 minutes of running, it shuts down. Upon restarting error "1. H1: Service" is shown, but the heater fires right back up for another 60-90 minutes. Ambient temps during the tests have been between 36°-65°F, with the heater set to temps between 65°-85°F
I've cleared the code, as well as done 2 factory reset, same results.
Anyone have any ideas of what to try next?
Not sure if it was posted, but in case someone else comes upon this thread and gets to the end. One fix to try is to clear on your error memory. Obviously take note of your codes, but when I first installed my heater and when I disconnect power completely, I usually see H1 code. I just get by it by tapping the button. Those build up... and clearing the memory gets me back up and running.Tried to fire up the Espar S2 unit and got an "H1 Service" message and it wouldn't start. It also has the Easy start pro timer/controller. I only tried to just run the heater by starting it directly through the controller not by using the timer function.
Anyone familiar with this message? My Google searches have thus far been unfruitful.
A year later with tons of use over the winter and my heater is still working great after the burn-out process mentioned above with my original burner unit from 2019. Haven't seen an H1 error all year!Well, team… the blowtorch coke burnout trick worked its magic for me!
It took about 30-45 minutes to burn it all out, shock it with the cold water, repeat a few times, then vacuum/compress air it all.
Reinstalled the unit and on first try no white smoke and fired right up! Tested it a few more times in different ways before writing this and relieved to say it is finally fixed.
Thanks to all contributors on this thread!
Thats great! I am curious if you leveled your heater as well as doing the burnout?A year later with tons of use over the winter and my heater is still working great after the burn-out process mentioned above with my original burner unit from 2019. Haven't seen an H1 error all year!
I did not. Just the burnout so far. How I cut my exhaust pipe and have the muffler mounted, even an inch adjustment from putting a shim in there would require adjustments down the line and a new exhaust pipe so I kept the same mount for now. I like the idea and makes sense logically to me. The burnout did the trick which was the main culprit I feel for now.Thats great! I am curious if you leveled your heater as well as doing the burnout?
A few things I did seemed to help make heater run more consistently. Use plastic line before and after dosing pump. Make sure plastic line butts up to pump nipple and heater inlet. Use a brass fitting to reduce hose size at OEM quick connect. Keep the brass reducer ends butt up to each fitting. Want to eliminate any potential for air pockets when heater turns on and off. Lastly make sure easy start pro is set for control unit for both temp control and temp display. After changes are made go through the factory reset by setting the controller to settings and the clock picture below it. Then hold back button in upper right corner for 3 seconds. This puts you in workshop mode and do a factory reset. Apply your settings. set timer. Turn heater back on and let run for an hour. Heater will set a memory again.View attachment 167908
Thank You! Where can I buy the correct plastic pipe and correct pipe clamps. I could use brand/name/sizing or a link for pipe and clamps please. 🙏A few things I did seemed to help make heater run more consistently. Use plastic line before and after dosing pump. Make sure plastic line butts up to pump nipple and heater inlet. Use a brass fitting to reduce hose size at OEM quick connect. Keep the brass reducer ends butt up to each fitting. Want to eliminate any potential for air pockets when heater turns on and off. Lastly make sure easy start pro is set for control unit for both temp control and temp display. After changes are made go through the factory reset by setting the controller to settings and the clock picture below it. Then hold back button in upper right corner for 3 seconds. This puts you in workshop mode and do a factory reset. Apply your settings. set timer. Turn heater back on and let run for an hour. Heater will set a memory again.View attachment 167908
Dammit! Heatso for me. Getting H1 code, P000200IS HEATSO A SCAM?
The Plot Thickens...
...
I hope this helps someone not get burned by heatso.
I can't get past his pronunciation of 'E-SPAR'... I had a Jim Gaffigan moment when I watched the video and thought 'Have I been saying that wrong all these years?'Dammit! Heatso for me. Getting H1 code, P000200
Well, smoove says a lot, I like it better than smooth. If you spar with Eberspacher then it is e-spar. Eberspacher is more fun if you attempt to go for the SNL Sprockets pronunciation, maybe Ehkburrsspockahh??I can't get past his pronunciation of 'E-SPAR'... I had a Jim Gaffigan moment when I watched the video and thought 'Have I been saying that wrong all these years?'
I feel like most folks say 'S-per' or 'S-par'.. the 'E' is silent. I know Espar is the Americanized version of Eberspacher, but still!