2003 hard start

J

jamie

New member
Good evening, I have a 03 T1, 170 miles. I am in Silver Spring, Md. Weather is mild.
Glow plug light went out. Glow plugs & module , 3 fuel injectors were replaced a year ago.

Occasionally for the last two months it is hard to start, until tonight it would start after 3-5 try’s , but it would crank hard, sounding similar to trying start after changing fuel filter.
I’m thinking it’s fuel related, at the fuel ( I’m using one w/sensor) filter the clear fuel line doesn’t have air bubbles in it.
I cranked 10-15 times tonight but it would not start.
I may try to replace the fuel filter.
 
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NelsonSprinter

NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter
We do need to know where it is . Is it in winter or summer conditions?
Winter might mean gelled fuel, water frozen in filter. Summer might mean worn injectors reducing fuel pressure to below allowable limits.
Does the glow plug light go out?
Please try to add your van year and location in your permanent signature line seen in every post.
 
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C

Crosscut

Member
I found the Autel AP200 invaluable for diagnosing similar problems, I still haven't got to the root of the issue but at least I know what is going wrong.

Leaking fuel system, lets air in and therefore struggles to achieve pressure.
Replacing the O rings on the voss connectors (plastic fittings with white clips) is helping my leaky system, each time I get round to swapping one out it gets a little better. I now no longer worry about being stranded unable to start it.

The other thing causing me problems was a tired battery, the starter was unable to get the revs high enough
 
vanski

vanski

If it’s winter, I’m probably skiing..
You may also want to investigate cam and crank sensor synchronization.. sometimes they can intermittently fail without throwing a stored code.. but if you catch it in the act you can see a current code. This can get to be a ton of fun when there’s both a small air intrusion leak in fuel system causing over cranking causing voltage drop across the power system causing the cam/crank sensor intermittent failure. A good scanner, I guess the Autel AP 200 has worked for many, should help you get to the bottom of it.
 
J

jamie

New member
The mechanic that I’ve taken it to did some diagnostic work. Which revealed the glow plug module has input but no output. They are suggesting starting there. Does the Sprinter need glow plugs to start even when temperatures are 35 degrees F and above?
 
H

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
jamie said:
The mechanic that I’ve taken it to did some diagnostic work. Which revealed the glow plug module has input but no output. They are suggesting starting there. Does the Sprinter need glow plugs to start even when temperatures are 35 degrees F and above?
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No. I have lost confidence in your mechanic already.
 
M

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
If they haven't monitored the fuel pressure when cranking, and confirmed its good/bad during the events, find another shop.
 
H

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
hkpierce said:
I have lost confidence in your mechanic already.
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Let me expand on my statement. First, given the temperatures we are having in the Maryland/DC area, non-operating glow plugs are not an issue. I have had this condition for several years - and I have started even down to -2 degrees F (in WV on a Scout winter camping trip - not happy - but it did). Second, as noted above, there are many alternative possible reasons - and given their relative cost to even do a blind remove and replace on all of them would be cheaper than the glow plug replacement on an OM612. Third, glow plug replacement on a OM612 is difficult. There are many threads on this issue. If not done carefully and with the tools necessary to correct problems, this will turn into a costly nightmare.

Do the cheaper (and more likely) solutions before going to the glow plug route.
 
C

Coolio

Member
As a 2003 owner i will say that the fuel system is biggest problem with no lift pump and the fuel being pulled from the tank to the engine. I would recommend acquiring the alternative fuel filter without the water sensor/drain port and learning how to prime with the Hkpierce's mighty vac method https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57440 I also use a touch of vaseline on all the fuel filter connectons. High battery voltage for cranking is very important as well and at those miles if you havent replaced the fuel regulator o rings then its time.
 
J

jamie

New member
Thanks enjoy, I got the van back. I wouldn’t argue with you about fuel , vacuum leaks seem to follow these T1’s.
The van is running after glow plug module replacement
 
J

jamie

New member
Well I spoke too soon. The van would not start last night.
I will change the fuel filter and the Orings.
Does anyone know of a source for the fuel line Orings?
Thanks in advance for your help
 
H

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
jamie said:
Well I spoke too soon. The van would not start last night.
I will change the fuel filter and the Orings.
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Do you have bubbles in the line (at rest or running) or no fuel at all visible in the plastic fuel lines? If no bubbles and full of fuel, don't go into that part of the system that is visibly OK - you will more likely create a problem than solve a problem.
 
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J

jamie

New member
After sitting over night the van started, it took 4-5 times. Returned van to mechanic and they kept it for a few days, it started each time for them.
After picking it up I drove it for a 30 min , parked it & after sitting for an hour it wouldn’t start, temp gauge still read warm. I’m Wondering if it’s a injector issue?

At any rate I need to find a qualified tech to help me . I’m near Silver Spring, Md.
Thanks for your help
 
T

trc.rhubarb

Well-known member
You need a signal from the cam sensor to start. Without it, it won't go.
The sensor is right on top of the OM612 to the left of the injectors on the top back of the head and takes about 3-5 minutes to change.
If you have a scope, you can check it but otherwise, you can buy a cheap generic one for short term/emergency use and replace with the real deal if it gets you rolling.

Since there's no bubbles, don't touch the fuel filter as long as you're sure there is fuel in the lines; it's not south of the fuel pump but it could be a fuel pressure issue.
The common culprit there is all the way against the firewall on the back of the commonrail and is an easy o-ring change but has to be done 100% by feel.
(I'd hold that thought for now because it's a PiTa to do and you need to wait for parts)

An EGR that is stuck open will prevent starting and you could test by making a temp blockoff plate with a cut soda can. Easy to tell if you remove it and fill the exhaust side of the egr body with carb cleaner... it will fill the "bowl" on the intake side if the valve isn't sealing and may be fixable if it's just crud.

Since it wont start warm, it's not likely to be glow plug

It's not likely mechanical to be so intermittent, so my focus would be electrical and I'd start with that cam sensor.

Lastly, and be sure about this... are you sure there are no bubbles? With the lack of an in tank pump, there always seems to be just a little air in the system but nothing that makes it hard to start.
I'm thinking that maybe there is no fuel vs no bubbles.

Fuel/bubbles - ? seconds?
Cam sensor replacement - 3-5 minutes
EGR - 10 minutes to pull, check and put back


It will likely take you longer to wash up and report back than it will to check out those few things.
 
B

billintomahawk

Guest
When you have the EGR off you could shine a light into the intake manifold. If you see a lot of furry carbon you could suck it out with your shop vac if the extension tube fits in.

bill in tomahawk
 
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