Glow Plug module location
- Thread starter project_x
- Start date
BrennWagon
He’s just this guy, you know?
It’s accessible by removing the drivers side headlight
Nautamaran
2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Correct.
To access: Remove grill, remove headlamp lower trim strip, unscrew headlamp pod.
(fiddle with electrical plug, realize PO broke it, give up in frustration, grab folding TV Dinner table, rest pod on table to avoid stressing wiring harness)
It’s bolted to the front of the wheel well, directly under the battery.
-dave
Last edited:
marklg
Well-known member
After doing it a few times, it is really easy to remove the headlight. It probably takes me only 5 minutes now. That saves a lot of time doing other things.
My go to process when working on the front of the engine now is to remove the two headlights and remove (grills) or loosen (radiator, etc) other stuff and put a wood block in to push the radiator forward. I think all that, which you don't need for the glow plug controller, takes me all of 20 minutes now.
The only issue is the screws loosen up after removing them a few times and I really need to replace the plastic fasteners they go into.
Regards,
Mark
Nautamaran
2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
+1... My knuckles are usually in much better shape if I go in through the headlamp cavity to reach the charge-air, intercooler, etc.
-dave
-dave
My answer to that issue was to replace the OEM fasteners with slightly larger sized gool ol' 'merican Phillips sheet metal screws. That made my life a bit easier all around.
vic
B
billintomahawk
Guest
'02 Freightliner.
The nuts will rust solid on the stud in salt country and you will shear off the stud trying to loosen it if it's a bad day.
Worth getting in there with PB blaster the day before.
bill in tomahawk
The nuts will rust solid on the stud in salt country and you will shear off the stud trying to loosen it if it's a bad day.
Worth getting in there with PB blaster the day before.
bill in tomahawk
doug022984
Sporadic Member Since 2015
Here's the pic you asked for. Since there's more than one way to skin a cat, I'll offer the other method to access it is remove the battery and battery tray. That's how I did mine. Then you might as well clean and rust proof your battery tray while it's out.
Attachments
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
Check and clean the ground stud down their while your at it. Check for corrosion of the battery support bracket. If it looks nasty. Hit it with some cold galvanizing paint/coating. That will buy you a few years until you need to remedy permanently.
B
billintomahawk
Guest
My ground bundle and the whole area was so screwed up with corrosion on my '02 I extended the whole bundle up to the firewall ground. All good now
bill
I think fumes or dripping from the battery makes that area susceptible to rusting. In hindsight it isn't the best choice of location. Extending the grounds up sounds like a good solution for a rotted or otherwise compromised ground point.
vic
B
billintomahawk
Guest
Good call Vic, my battery tray /support was mostly missing in action due to battery acid corrosion.
It's mostly replaced with exterior treated plywood now and working nicely.
bill
It's mostly replaced with exterior treated plywood now and working nicely.
bill
Cavah
2002 Hymer RV, 2500 chassis
The hardest part is removing the headlamp wiring connector........ it can be quite difficult until you get it off and look closely and say,,,,, Oh, that’s how...... I believe you can leave it connected and just kinda twist the assembly out of the way enough to gain access to the GP controller....
Unfortunately I cannot find the pics I took to document the process.
John
Unfortunately I cannot find the pics I took to document the process.
John