Do both hoses and get it over with at the same time. https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/49282/
loss of power going uphill
- Thread starter white whale
- Start date
marklg
Well-known member
Look at this thread:
sprinter-source.com
The smallest of leaks, an O ring in that case can cause the ECM to shut off the turbo.
If you have some hoses going, they plus the O rings all will go in a similar time frame. If you want to save yourself hassle, just replace all the rubber and plastic parts. Mine is also a 2006. It's old age for rubber parts.
Regards,
Mark
Losing Boost / LHM at Same Location
And as an alternative.. a homemade $15 smoke machine. I wonder if it matters if the sock is dirty LOL https://youtu.be/L9CDZ9lu6Rs Enjoy
The smallest of leaks, an O ring in that case can cause the ECM to shut off the turbo.
If you have some hoses going, they plus the O rings all will go in a similar time frame. If you want to save yourself hassle, just replace all the rubber and plastic parts. Mine is also a 2006. It's old age for rubber parts.
Regards,
Mark
autostaretx
Erratic Member
The baked-on nature of my oil spray spoke of quite a long time of "tiny leak" (too little lost for ECM to notice).
Then i went over a railroad crossing fairly hard.
(i may have even stopped within a mile to look for physical damage ... found none)
The "dropped the turbo" behavior showed up about 2 hours later.
(in the interim, i was usually on secondary roads that didn't challenge the turbo)
When i finally got around to replacing the resonator (1100 miles and two Rockies crossings later), the split in the resonator's plastic was at most an inch long and gapping less than a 20th of an inch (i.e. less than a millimeter).
I could run it up to 26 psi MAP without turbo loss ... 27.5 definitely lost it.
--dick
Then i went over a railroad crossing fairly hard.
(i may have even stopped within a mile to look for physical damage ... found none)
The "dropped the turbo" behavior showed up about 2 hours later.
(in the interim, i was usually on secondary roads that didn't challenge the turbo)
When i finally got around to replacing the resonator (1100 miles and two Rockies crossings later), the split in the resonator's plastic was at most an inch long and gapping less than a 20th of an inch (i.e. less than a millimeter).
I could run it up to 26 psi MAP without turbo loss ... 27.5 definitely lost it.
--dick
Nautamaran
2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
The cold-side hose assembly can be replaced from above. You do need to take the driver’s headlamp out to reach some of the fasteners. (maybe open the square lid of your boost heater while you’re in there? Mine usually wants cleaning.)
The hot-side hose is changed from below.
-dave
The hot-side hose is changed from below.
-dave
sailquik
Well-known member
white whale,
What is your "aversion" to manually downshifting out of overdrive (5th gear 0.81 :1 ratio) and getting your
engine RPM up into a range where the engine makes some power (>2700 RPM -3200RPM) and uses signifcatly
and measureably less fuel?
A Scan Gauge II is NOT a good Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) tool/scanner, but it's an excellent "driving aid"
and in your stated scenario you would have easily seen that the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) had dropped
from the normal 32-35 PSIA down to <~20 PSIA indicating a boost leak causing your Sprinter to go into Limp Home
Mode (LHM) due to an under boost condition, due to the small leak in your turbocharger plumbing/hoses.
As far as the oily mess at the plastic box with the AIT and MAP sensors, that is definitely NOT normal.
All the coupling/joints in your turbo plumbing/hoses/devices should be bone dry on the outside!
Any "oily messes" on the outside of these hoses and devices CLEARLY indicates that some oil (normal on
the inside of the turbo plumbing/hoses/devices) is somehow leaking to the outside at that joint and is a
highly likely source of MAP/BST leakage that can only get worse until it leaks enough that your MAP/BST
sensor falls below the programmed "under boost" level for your current engine RPM level and % engine
Load.
The Scan Gauge II, used as a driving aid/performance parameter indicator will let you know when any of
the most important parameters (I.E> LOD/MAP/VOLT/TEMP) is below or above the norm. and you are getting
near the programmed min./max. levels set by the ECM (Engine Control Module) computer.
When you begin to climb a grade, in 5th gear (0.81:1 overdrive) your % engine Load (LOD) will go from 50-65%
(normal flat road with no headwinds) to > 90%. And the engine RPM will begin to drop because the amount of
power required to climb the grade is more than your engine can make.
Clear indication (both the Scan Gauge II LOD reading @ > 90% and the engine RPM decreasing) that it is time to
manually downshift.
No need disengage cruise control, no need to do anything besides tapping the shift lever to the left and manually
downshifting your 5G-Tronic/NAG-1 transmission down into 4th gear (1:1 ratio through the transmission.
The Scan Gauge II and your Sprinter tachometer will register the downshift and you will see the RPM increase by
~500 RPM.
Very easy to accomplish, and you will immediately be in a better gear and at a better engine RPM level to get up
the grade.
If the grade is so steep (~> 5% normally) that your engine still cannt make enough power to get up the grade, you can
manually downshift to 3rd gear just as easily.
Hope this helps,
Roger
What is your "aversion" to manually downshifting out of overdrive (5th gear 0.81 :1 ratio) and getting your
engine RPM up into a range where the engine makes some power (>2700 RPM -3200RPM) and uses signifcatly
and measureably less fuel?
A Scan Gauge II is NOT a good Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) tool/scanner, but it's an excellent "driving aid"
and in your stated scenario you would have easily seen that the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) had dropped
from the normal 32-35 PSIA down to <~20 PSIA indicating a boost leak causing your Sprinter to go into Limp Home
Mode (LHM) due to an under boost condition, due to the small leak in your turbocharger plumbing/hoses.
As far as the oily mess at the plastic box with the AIT and MAP sensors, that is definitely NOT normal.
All the coupling/joints in your turbo plumbing/hoses/devices should be bone dry on the outside!
Any "oily messes" on the outside of these hoses and devices CLEARLY indicates that some oil (normal on
the inside of the turbo plumbing/hoses/devices) is somehow leaking to the outside at that joint and is a
highly likely source of MAP/BST leakage that can only get worse until it leaks enough that your MAP/BST
sensor falls below the programmed "under boost" level for your current engine RPM level and % engine
Load.
The Scan Gauge II, used as a driving aid/performance parameter indicator will let you know when any of
the most important parameters (I.E> LOD/MAP/VOLT/TEMP) is below or above the norm. and you are getting
near the programmed min./max. levels set by the ECM (Engine Control Module) computer.
When you begin to climb a grade, in 5th gear (0.81:1 overdrive) your % engine Load (LOD) will go from 50-65%
(normal flat road with no headwinds) to > 90%. And the engine RPM will begin to drop because the amount of
power required to climb the grade is more than your engine can make.
Clear indication (both the Scan Gauge II LOD reading @ > 90% and the engine RPM decreasing) that it is time to
manually downshift.
No need disengage cruise control, no need to do anything besides tapping the shift lever to the left and manually
downshifting your 5G-Tronic/NAG-1 transmission down into 4th gear (1:1 ratio through the transmission.
The Scan Gauge II and your Sprinter tachometer will register the downshift and you will see the RPM increase by
~500 RPM.
Very easy to accomplish, and you will immediately be in a better gear and at a better engine RPM level to get up
the grade.
If the grade is so steep (~> 5% normally) that your engine still cannt make enough power to get up the grade, you can
manually downshift to 3rd gear just as easily.
Hope this helps,
Roger