Sound deadening and floor insulation

ForestGrump

Grand FVanale
Good info on sound deadening & insulation- but since I am working on a new van without an existing floor, I assume the way to do it would be to glue furring strips to the metal floor in order to attach (new) plywood flooring, then install sound deadening & insulation in between?
 

ForestGrump

Grand FVanale
Probably no. The sound reading material should be directly applied to the metal.

placed between the furring strips it would be on the metal. But I doubt if I can glue the furring strips over the top of the sound deadening. How else can i insulate the floor besides using furring strips?
 

hein

Van Guru
Our Minicell kits are very popular for floor insulation. Minicell is pretty good for reducing noise and does not require furring. It can be used over sound deadening if desired. Some customers are using Thinsulate AU4002-5 under floors and best practice is to do some furring around the perimeter of the floor in that case.

Experience has shown that it is not necessary to apply additional sound deadening to floors when using Minicell or Thinsulate. The metal floor is not really an unsupported panel that is prone to resonance and normally has plenty of stuff on top of it (thereby constraining it) when the build is complete. An area rug or mat is great for comfort and to further reduce noise (if needed).

We just received our first shipment of 3M's new Engineered Damping Material which is roughly half the weight of other stick on mass loading materials. We believe Thinsulate SM600L on its own (in walls and roof) is sufficient for resonance control, noise absorption and thermal insulation but some folks want to take it further. Saving weight in a van is important and we believe this material serves that need very well.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan

 
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RVBarry

Active member
placed between the furring strips it would be on the metal. But I doubt if I can glue the furring strips over the top of the sound deadening. How else can i insulate the floor besides using furring strips?
I don't think anything needs to be glued as long as the floor is properly bolted in.
 

ForestGrump

Grand FVanale
Our Minicell kits are very popular for floor insulation. Minicell is pretty good for reducing noise and does not require furring. It can be used over sound deadening if desired. Some customers are using Thinsulate AU4002-5 under floors and best practice is to do some furring around the perimeter of the floor in that case.

Experience has shown that it is not necessary to apply additional sound deadening to floors when using Minicell or Thinsulate. The metal floor is not really an unsupported panel that is prone to resonance and normally has plenty of stuff on top of it (thereby constraining it) when the build is complete. An area rug or mat is great for comfort and to further reduce noise (if needed).

We just received our first shipment of 3M's new Engineered Damping Material which is roughly half the weight of other stick on mass loading materials. We believe Thinsulate SM600L on its own (in walls and roof) is sufficient for resonance control, noise absorption and thermal insulation but some folks want to take it further. Saving weight in a van is important and we believe this material serves that need very well.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan

thanks for info! Just followed your page links for the 8020 & realized I bought my 3M 600 wall & ceiling insulation on eBay from you (ebay name ‘thingsfromafar’) ! I’ll call tomorrow to get the flooring material & 8020 !!!
 

ForestGrump

Grand FVanale
I don't think anything needs to be glued as long as the floor is properly bolted in.
ok... trying to figure out the best way to do this. Saw a dyi build on YouTube where they glued wooden furring strips so they would not have to put screws into the metal floor. And in between the furring they put the insulation, then they screwed the subfloor to the wooden furring. Seemed reasonable to me, but maybe that’s not the best way to do it.
 

sms

New member
Appreciate the write up and Youtube videos.

We did the sound deadening and floor installation as described above about a month ago. Pretty easy (not technical) install. Hardest parts were probably getting the rear seat out of the van as well as the floor (just awkward). Found the D rings to be a bit more work than anticipated.

We split the install over two days and took our time. No divorce proceedings were initiated during the process. Probably took six hours total. We did not do anything to the front. Separately, when I did Scopema swivel seats last weekend, it looked like the fronts had some factory sound deadening already. And with the battery under the floor in the driver's side, it felt like anything up there was going to be more in the way than helpful, so I have decided against that for the time being.

The only suggestion that I would have that might be a bit different than the video is how to lay the sound deadening. I moved back to front. And started so that one full piece of sound deadening mat butted the drivers side wheel well. I think this reduced the number of cuts necessary. Plus it was easier to work some of the smaller leftovers around the wheel wells and seat brackets. Pretty minor as the material was very easy to work with and relatively forgiving. I missed the D rings that are toward the rear, middle and easily went back and pulled enough material out to clear the space.

No real issues otherwise. Raised the floor a bit so have bigger gaps on the sliding door, rear door, and around the edges. Bought some round found stock from Grainger and inserted as a non permanent solution (3/8" and 1/2" seemed to fit best, although 1/4" around the wheel wells). It is also a touch crowned since the D rings seem to tighten the edges with no corresponding force in the middle

Biggest issue was I decided to try to black out the silver trim pieces with bed liner, since virtually everything else in the van is black. That's not adhering to the trim as well as I would have thought and is chipping a bit as we drag coolers etc in and out of the van. I touched it up once, but might have to figure something else out.
 

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hilld

Member
Appreciate the write up and Youtube videos.

We did the sound deadening and floor installation as described above about a month ago. Pretty easy (not technical) install. Hardest parts were probably getting the rear seat out of the van as well as the floor (just awkward). Found the D rings to be a bit more work than anticipated.

We split the install over two days and took our time. No divorce proceedings were initiated during the process. Probably took six hours total. We did not do anything to the front. Separately, when I did Scopema swivel seats last weekend, it looked like the fronts had some factory sound deadening already. And with the battery under the floor in the driver's side, it felt like anything up there was going to be more in the way than helpful, so I have decided against that for the time being.

The only suggestion that I would have that might be a bit different than the video is how to lay the sound deadening. I moved back to front. And started so that one full piece of sound deadening mat butted the drivers side wheel well. I think this reduced the number of cuts necessary. Plus it was easier to work some of the smaller leftovers around the wheel wells and seat brackets. Pretty minor as the material was very easy to work with and relatively forgiving. I missed the D rings that are toward the rear, middle and easily went back and pulled enough material out to clear the space.

No real issues otherwise. Raised the floor a bit so have bigger gaps on the sliding door, rear door, and around the edges. Bought some round found stock from Grainger and inserted as a non permanent solution (3/8" and 1/2" seemed to fit best, although 1/4" around the wheel wells). It is also a touch crowned since the D rings seem to tighten the edges with no corresponding force in the middle

Biggest issue was I decided to try to black out the silver trim pieces with bed liner, since virtually everything else in the van is black. That's not adhering to the trim as well as I would have thought and is chipping a bit as we drag coolers etc in and out of the van. I touched it up once, but might have to figure something else out.
What were the before and after sound differences just driving around?
 

sms

New member
What were the before and after sound differences just driving around?
There definitely a difference, but I don't want to oversell it. Sitting in the driver / passenger area, I think we're still getting a lot of road noise from the doors and front (another project). However, road noise is reduced (especially rear tire). The biggest difference is probably reduced resonance. A lot less tin canny noises on bumps and so forth. I also want to take a crack at the rear doors as well.
 

wquek

Work in progress
There definitely a difference, but I don't want to oversell it. Sitting in the driver / passenger area, I think we're still getting a lot of road noise from the doors and front (another project). However, road noise is reduced (especially rear tire). The biggest difference is probably reduced resonance. A lot less tin canny noises on bumps and so forth. I also want to take a crack at the rear doors as well.
We installed Thinsulate and 95++% hushmat on our floor recently and I concur with this observation.
 

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