Front speaker upgrade

Mr Makai

Member
Hi Mr Makai

+ Three exposed screws along bottom edge
+ 5 circular plugs you need to pop out (trim tool) with screws behind them
_ 2 in lower cubby, 1 behind door handle, 1 in door pull pocket, 1 at top outermost (facing your elbow when seated)
+ Pop out small trim piece around door lock stalk where it meets glass

You can then start at the bottom and work your way around popping the plastic clips

The bottom edge of the door panel has hooks that hold it to sheetmetal
Once you’ve popped off all the body clips, the door panel will rotate out so you can unclip the wiring and the door rod from the door handle
Then the door panel can rotate down towards you a bit more and you can lift it out of the recess that the hooks sit in

There’s a couple YouTube videos if you need visuals
If I find url I’ll post it up
Thank you very much!

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

Silveringot

New member
Nice write-up. We are producing adapters for those who want to replace front speakers and retain factory grills. There is limited depth so choose a shallow mount speaker. Thinsulate behind the door panels is a great way to improve sound quality and reduce resonance.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
541 490 5098
Could you explain how the rings are supposed to be used? The speaker is screwed in from the back and the front grill does not appear to come out. Nothing like the ncv3.
 

Silveringot

New member
Adapter screws to backside of door panel
New speaker screws into adapter
So it decreases the amount of depth available? The door panel has only about 2.5”-2.75” of space between factory mounting and the actual door metal. Also there is a plastic tab that sticks out to locate the alignment for the factory speaker that would impede this ring. On top of that, why would one need to choose inside diameter of mounting speaker? I’m thoroughly confused. Pictures of its intended use would help. I’m currently planning my speaker upgrade and had the door panel off earlier to look at things and take measurements.
 

Eric B

Well-known member
All your questions will be answered if you search ...

MB factory speakers are 5" and change in diameter - everyone agrees they are pretty poor
Most nicer aftermarket speakers are 6.5" diameter - that's why you need Hein's adapter - he sells them in different sizes so you need to measure your aftermarket speakers to confirm which you will need

Yes there is a depth limit on the VS30 door sheetmetal - we are aware of this
Plenty of us have found speakers they like within this limitation and which proved to be a big improvement over stock
 

SMARTrides

New member
When I upgraded I went thru 3 sets of speakers all the way up to Rockford Fosgate's costing nearly $300 thinking that they would for sure sound good. All three sets sounded horrible until i decided to give these a try and WOW!

You wouldn't think that a set of $150 speakers would sound so darn good but they do. I use Spotify or Pandora to play high quality feed. I don't even need a subwoofer, the bass from them is that good.

I insulated the doors with 3M sound mat and added some dynamat to the inside skin of the doors. When I shut the doors they sound totally different now. They produce a very quality solid sound.

Here are the speakers I added and they come with a cross over network and tweeters. The cross overs and tweeters from the other sets of speakers were so harsh I could not listen to them but these sound awesome.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/jbl-gx...lene-cones-pair-black/6283670.p?skuId=6283670

These can only be purchased at Best Buy.

I also went with an Alpine Amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-F300-4-Channel-Amplifier-Watts/dp/B00BLQA9BM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=Q0PSDLIJ7QKB&keywords=alpine+amplifier+4+channel&qid=1577196561&s=automotive&sprefix=alpine+amp,automotive,198&sr=1-3

i also disconnected the center speaker.

The stock speakers are total garbage as most who read this probably know.
Thanks for all this info ! Yes the stock speakers are horrible ! One question , why did you disconnect the center speaker instead of upgrading it ?
 

eralimited57

Active member
Thanks for all this info ! Yes the stock speakers are horrible ! One question , why did you disconnect the center speaker instead of upgrading it ?
Most of the threads I read strongly recommended removing the center dash speaker because it would sound much better without it. Also the JBL speaker set I referenced comes with the two tweeters and the two bass/midrange speakers only so another reason to not put back a decent center speaker - just don't need it and it sounds incredible!
 

eralimited57

Active member
Hein, Are the JBL’s Eralimited57 posted shallow enough?
@Eralimited57 any pictures of your set-up?
I don't have any photos but the JBLs I am referring to fit fine within the doors of my NCV3 with room to spare behind them for 3M sound deadening insulation and dynamat on the door skins
 

eralimited57

Active member
Hein, Are the JBL’s Eralimited57 posted shallow enough?
@Eralimited57 any pictures of your set-up?
I used Hein's adaptor rings for the JBLs I refer to and everything fit great. Plenty of room behind them for the 3M insulation and dynamat I put behind them in my 2008 NCV3 Sprinter. Streaming Spotify or Pandora and the sound is amazingly good. BTW I used the Alpine amp I refer to in this post as well. No need for a subwoofer. Plenty of bass.
 

chipsterguy

Active member
Which JBL speakers did you purchase and what size adapter from Hein? Curious minds want to know... ;)
 

smittylube

Active member
When I upgraded I went thru 3 sets of speakers all the way up to Rockford Fosgate's costing nearly $300 thinking that they would for sure sound good. All three sets sounded horrible until i decided to give these a try and WOW!

You wouldn't think that a set of $150 speakers would sound so darn good but they do. I use Spotify or Pandora to play high quality feed. I don't even need a subwoofer, the bass from them is that good.



https://www.bestbuy.com/site/jbl-gx...lene-cones-pair-black/6283670.p?skuId=6283670

These can only be purchased at Best Buy.



The stock speakers are total garbage as most who read this probably know.
Do you think these speakers would be a decent choice without the amp using just the stock head unit?
Also did the tweeters fit in the stock location in the dash?
 

smittylube

Active member
I would also question if the stock speakers are 2 ohms or 4 ohms? I see the JBL that EL57 used are rated at 2.3 ohms. Many past stock systems I've played with were 2-ohm and aftermarket speakers rated at 4-ohm don't always sound that much better. The proper choice is critical. I like the comments on his trial and error. I'm totally willing to try them in our new Revel.
 

smittylube

Active member
Since we recently took delivery of a 2021 Revel, I've been doing my homework, ordered some dynamat, some insulation as well. I plan to dmat the front side and rear doors. I've put some sort of hushmat or dynamat in many previous vehicles to appreciate the product. But the more I think about it and the limited knowledge I have about speaker acoustics these speakers being placed only in the panel it seems pretty hard for me to imagine much base with little to no enclosure. It seems the insulation and such in the panel is more critical than the door itself. As I understand it creating an enclosure out of the panel is very much the key to proper sound in this situation. It makes me think what if you made or put in a tube (slightly larger than the size of the speaker) to contain the speaker and opened a hole in the metal part of the door behind it to acoustically utilize the space the door already has.
 

coss370

Member
I don't think I have the door speakers, is that standard or an option?

OP, do you mind showing how the center speaker is removed? Do we just get a pry tool and pop it up from the seat's side? Straight up?

Thx
 

Eric B

Well-known member
@smittylube insulation in the doors is going to be tricky because you don't want to get in the way of the power window tracks
insulation helped to lessen road noise coming in through the doors
dynamite/hushmat/noico helped to deaden vibrations in the doors from the speaker

@coss370 search tool is your friend - has been discussed at length - yes pry with a trim tool to remove mesh, pull up on speaker to free it, remove black connector, not white connector - you can't hear your door speakers because your center is overpowering them ... again, has been discussed extensively
 

smittylube

Active member
I used a credit card to pry up on the center speaker grill. easy and fast. Less time than trying to find my trim tool.

I'll post some pictures of the doors and panel when I get it sorted out.
 

smittylube

Active member
@smittylube insulation in the doors is going to be tricky because you don't want to get in the way of the power window tracks
Eric, I wasn't planning on insulation in the door but between the door panel and door. hushmat/ dynomat on/in the door. The normal procedure I've done on many of my cars in the past.
 

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