Solid state check engine light question

IPT

Member
2018 4x4 Sprinter, 2500 with about 6000 miles. My wife was driving the van today and noticed the yellow engine light on, in a steady manner. She felt like at some point she floored the van and it wouldn’t go over 20mph (this occurred after the light was on – the light did not go on at this time). However, she then thought maybe her foot just wasn’t on the accelerator pedal all the way because she moved her foot to better press the accelerator and couldn’t reproduce it. So as of now, the light is on but the van is/was driving (an accelerating) seemingly without any issue.

According the manual it could be one of three things.

1- A fuel issue (though tank was filled recently and should have ¾ of a tank – Chevron station in a busy local so hopefully good gas). Am I interpreting the instructions correct in the manual where it says to turn the van on and off for 3-4 times to see if it resets (presumably after re-fueling – which I shouldn’t need to do)? It suggests the van is running in “emergency mode”. How would I know, just because the light is on?

2- An injection malfunction. As noted the van is seems to currently be running fine. This is less likely (I think, but what do I know?). Also apparently running in emergency mode.

3- It’s an emissions issue. This seems most likely because it seems to be the bane of this van. I did have the “add DEF fluid” message a week ago. No light per say, just the message. I added DEF and after a start or two the message was and has been gone.

Currently there are no “messages”. I am going to call the dealer, but anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? The light is not flashing, and the van seems to run fine. I think it’s safe to drive, but I’d hate to cause damage. Input here?
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Keep on driving for now. I suggest getting a scanner which speaks sprinter (there are several). I believe the Autel AP200 works with the NCV3 and is fairly cheap. Even if you are under warranty, its a good tool to have.

Scan the van to see what code is stored. If the original issue is no long present, the check engine light will clear after a 2-5 drive cycles. The code will remain stored for later retrieval.

There are a myriad of minor and major things which can cause the CEL to illuminate. Since you are not in LHM and there are no messages on the cluster, its safe to assume that its a minor issue for the time being.
 

Bobnoxious

Adeptus Trollarium
Strong probability caused by interrupting DPF regenerations.

As recommended by MWD, imperative to drive vehicle on highway, mixed with some stop and go, until CEL extinguishes. This can require several hundred miles. Otherwise, vehicle may default to Limp Home Mode.
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
If I read you correctly, the engine is still on, but you are no longer experiencing the 20 mph speed limit as had initially occurred, correct?

You were in Limp Home Mode when the speed was limited.

From my experiences, LHM can occur at any time, with or without the engine light on.

LHM may also occur as, but not limited to, a) reduced/capped engine RPM's, b) decrease in engine performance or power.

All said, rarely is this a 'one-off' occurrence. Best to get it scanned.
 
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IPT

Member
Thanks all. Yes, warranty and it will go to the shop. It was more of an issue of if there was a suggested quick fix, or something to look at to do so. it will go in either way to have the code scanned and see what's up. I did cal the dealer and they said as long as it's driving fine, it was fine to keep driving. It's going in next week so it will be interesting to see if it clears between then and now.

Thanks for the thoughts and input!

On scanners, the Autel AP200 was recommended. ANyone have thoughts on this or other suggestions? I am not likely to do a lot of wrenching on this thing (just due to my limited skills and knowledge) but it seems like a decent tool to have just to see what's up, if it throws a code. Maybe give me enough info to know if I can press onwards or if I should just call a tow truck and park it. Since I'm not going very deep into diagnostics seems like I could find something simple and adequate to do what I need and not break the bank. Or am I just wasting my time in that if its a blinking engine light **** it down and park it, if it's solid keep on?
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
The AP200 is cheap and should do what you need. Its also small enough to fit in your glove box for emergency needs. Knowing how to read the codes from the various modules could save you $$$$ and provide peace of mind if you have something funky happen away from the dealer.
 

IPT

Member
2 days of driving and the light is gone. It also got warmer outside too. Maybe DEF froze or something. Will be interesting to see what code they pull when we bring it in for the driveline clunk issue.
 

b_gons

New member
My bet the code was P2002 for diesel particulate filter efficiency. I've had that code with the CEL a couple of times and a sensor was replaced under warranty. I have a cheap Autel reader and have not felt the need to invest in a better one yet. I may go ScanGauge for info while driving.
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
My bet the code was P2002 for diesel particulate filter efficiency. I've had that code with the CEL a couple of times and a sensor was replaced under warranty. I have a cheap Autel reader and have not felt the need to invest in a better one yet. I may go ScanGauge for info while driving.
Many years ago and in the infancy stage of ownership, I triggered a onetime CEL immediately after I over filled the fuel tank. I read somewhere that it is possible if the vent tube gets filled with fuel. Since then, I never 'top up'.
 

Whistler74

New member
My one time LHM and engine light was a cold (-20) day when I left the engine running while I fuelled up. After reading the manual and the sequence to clear it all was good. Didn't leave any codes to find.
 

IPT

Member
So, the dealer said the check engine light was due a sticking of the throttle body. They said it's not uncommon for the throttle body to get ice and freeze up if one idles for a long period in certain temps. We don't idle, however on the day in question the traffic was at a crawl. So, essentially maybe it was prolonged idling. Might also the brief loss of power until she got on it, maybe breaking the ice build up? Not sure about all this, but that's what they said.
 

IPT

Member
Thought I would add to this. Issue happened again at above freezing temps. It went into limp mode and stayed that way with check engine light on. Dealer said throttle body failed (or something associated with it) and replaced it under warranty. Tech said in the 3 years he's worked there he's never seen one fail before, so I guess I was the lucky one. Anyway, all fixed now and no issues since.
 

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