Weekender 4WD Crew Build for family

RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
Ugh... This is bad news. I was just trying to solve this problem myself and I'm no pro audio installer. I was thinking I could run the wires for rear speakers from the center channel that I plan to disconnect. Any reason that won't work?
Hi,
1. Won't get a stereo signal that way, in the rear.
2. Two (or more) speakers in parallel would lower the impedance, increasing the load on the head unit/amp.
Wiring in series would be safer but if the impedance is too high, the rear volume would be reduced.

Note some sprinters have optional rear speaker prewiring under the driver's seat.
 

erik.wahlstrom

Well-known member
The approach I took, and others is to use the front R&L spreaders as the only high level inputs. I split these wires and ran them into a small amp. This way there is a full spectrum stereo signal pumped to both the front and the rear.

The amp is powered aux battery. Fader controls don’t work, but balance does. You can also put a DSP Inline to improve the signal. You can use the amp gain as a set it and forget it poor man’s fader

I’ve never done a stereo before so it can’t be that hard.

Bonus: There are some amps (marine ones) that have built in BT streaming. With the amp on the house battery you can stream forever without the key on.
 

Esses

New member
Hi,
1. Won't get a stereo signal that way, in the rear.
2. Two (or more) speakers in parallel would lower the impedance, increasing the load on the head unit/amp.
Wiring in series would be safer but if the impedance is too high, the rear volume would be reduced.

Note some sprinters have optional rear speaker prewiring under the driver's seat.
Thanks for responding.

Well, that's a bummer. I was hoping it was wired like this guy explains...


He says the speaker wire colors for the center speaker are:
  • Left + Brown/Purple
  • Left – Brown/Green
  • Right + Brown/Orange
  • Right – Brown/Blue
But, this is an old post so definitely not a 2019. I guess MBZ has changed it since. Have you actually taken that zone apart to look at it?
 

Esses

New member
The approach I took, and others is to use the front R&L spreaders as the only high level inputs. I split these wires and ran them into a small amp. This way there is a full spectrum stereo signal pumped to both the front and the rear.

The amp is powered aux battery. Fader controls don’t work, but balance does. You can also put a DSP Inline to improve the signal. You can use the amp gain as a set it and forget it poor man’s fader

I’ve never done a stereo before so it can’t be that hard.

Bonus: There are some amps (marine ones) that have built in BT streaming. With the amp on the house battery you can stream forever without the key on.
Thanks. I should be able to make this work. What amp did you use?
 

RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
Thanks for responding.

Well, that's a bummer. I was hoping it was wired like this guy explains...


He says the speaker wire colors for the center speaker are:
  • Left + Brown/Purple
  • Left – Brown/Green
  • Right + Brown/Orange
  • Right – Brown/Blue
But, this is an old post so definitely not a 2019. I guess MBZ has changed it since. Have you actually taken that zone apart to look at it?
Hi, my understanding is that currently one set of terminals is for the emergency assist speakerphone, with only a single channel for the radio.
I have not looked at one personally.
 

erik.wahlstrom

Well-known member
Thanks for responding.

Well, that's a bummer. I was hoping it was wired like this guy explains...


He says the speaker wire colors for the center speaker are:
  • Left + Brown/Purple
  • Left – Brown/Green
  • Right + Brown/Orange
  • Right – Brown/Blue
But, this is an old post so definitely not a 2019. I guess MBZ has changed it since. Have you actually taken that zone apart to look at it?
This will work for a sub, which takes a mono signal, but won’t help for the fronts/rears. Even if it was stero, you’d still need to run new wires to the fronts unless your amp is buried in the dash.
Got it. I think I'm going to try the route Erik suggested.
Just make sure to run 4 conductor wires to the doors. Better yet, 6 conductor. It’s cheap upgrade insurance.
 

Fanto

Member
Finally got my Sprinter after 8 months of waiting due to COVID delays.

Successfully removed and reinstall front headliner today.

Next up, removing and insulating the front doors.

I find it quite daunting because of all the electrical components.

Any tips for removing the front door panels?


Bit more done today, insulated and sound deaden the front and back doors, swapped the front speakers out using 3D Impacts speaker adapters. (disconnect that center speaker, that alone makes a huge difference). The doors alone take more time than the entire rear walls to do but do make a big difference, its a must do if you are insulating your van. You can tell from the before/after pic...I am pretty thorough when I do insulation/sound deaden in a van. This is just a small example of what I do and I use superior materials as mentioned so the end result is better than what most do. (Also takes a lot more material and time) I use over 120 square fee just in sound deadener alone. (not including the floor).

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RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
Any tips for removing the front door panels?
Hi, something like this should work:
All auto parts stores should have at least a basic trim removal tool.

Make sure to keep the rain seal sheeting in place.

Congratulations on your new van!
 

sbpoint

Member
Any feedback on having the roof fan up front? I have factory air so it’s my only option but I’m worried about noise. After going through all of the trouble of deadening and insulating....
 

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