Stuck transmission plug connector

[Jmcgrath003]

Hello All,

I own a 2003 Dodge 2500 Sprinter that currently has a stuck transmission plug connector. I noticed the transmission leaking and first thing I thought to switch out is that connector as it is a common place to leak fluid. When I tried to unscrew the tiny bolt inside the connector plug the bolt just kept spinning. My first thought was that the female part on the inside was just spinning with the bolt. Now I’m stuck with trying to figure out how to get this part out and replaced. Any info or tips would be greatly appreciated!

-Joe

 

[billintomahawk]

Will the bolt gently re-tighen?

Or is it stripped in both directions?

bill

 

[Patrick of M]

If memory serves once that bolt is loose it does not come out of the connector. Once it is loose, you pull the connector out. If you have the replacement on hand it is quite obvious. An oring is pressed in there and resists movement.

 

[Larry M]

Maybe this will help. Credit goes to Million Mile Sprinter.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4VWi5rBXDJ/

If you can’t open it, go to his web site. He has this video and you shouldn’t have to join instagram to open.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

The screw/bolt is captive to the connector housing. Loosen it, then pull the entire thing off. It can stick a bit with the O-rings.

 

[Nautamaran]

The bolt screws into a threaded insert on the conductor plate. There have been a couple of accounts of the plastic around the insert breaking free during installation (no doubt with a soul-killing “crack!”). If the bolt is spinning freely, then try gently prying the socket out of the metal housing. If that fails, I believe you’ll have to drop the pan to investigate.
(parking the van pointing down an incline has been said to slow the flow of fluid during socket swaps)

-dave

 

[220629]

The bolt screws into a threaded insert on the conductor plate. There have been a couple of accounts of the plastic around the insert breaking free during installation (no doubt with a soul-killing “crack!”).
...
-dave

If the bolt is spinning and spinning without pushing the connector out at all, my bet is that the threaded piece has already broken free from the circuit board.

If the threaded part has broken free, the real repair requires replacement of the conductor plate. It may be possible to epoxy the broken part back into place, but everything must be EXTREMELY clean. That may be a bit problematic because the transmission fluid has soaked into everything.

The O-ring seals don't need the small OEM screw to work. The connector body will seal as long as it is held into place. An alternate fix could be to install some sort of mechanical part external on the connector which will keep the connector body in place. (I would not be inclined to replace the conductor plate if I could stabilize the connector into place.)

There is no video, but I explain how I used leverage to move the connector body into place and avoid stress on the rather fragile small bolt keeper assembly.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=763466#post763466


There's a bunch of information related to the connector body here.

Change Leaky Transmission Connector
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19076

FWIW.
I jacked the front end of the Sprinter up high and installed jack stands for the connector change. Very little fluid was lost.

vic

 

[Jmcgrath003]

Will the bolt gently re-tighen?

Or is it stripped in both directions?

bill

It is stripped in both ways it seems. It just turns forever in both directions and is actually quite difficult to turn.

 

[Jmcgrath003]

If the bolt is spinning and spinning without pushing the connector out at all, my bet is that the threaded piece has already broken free from the circuit board.

If the threaded part has broken free, the real repair requires replacement of the conductor plate. It may be possible to epoxy the broken part back into place, but everything must be EXTREMELY clean. That may be a bit problematic because the transmission fluid has soaked into everything.

The O-ring seals don't need the small OEM screw to work. The connector body will seal as long as it is held into place. An alternate fix could be to install some sort of mechanical part external on the connector which will keep the connector body in place. (I would not be inclined to replace the conductor plate if I could stabilize the connector into place.)

There is no video, but I explain how I used leverage to move the connector body into place and avoid stress on the rather fragile small bolt keeper assembly.


https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=763466#post763466


There's a bunch of information related to the connector body here.

Change Leaky Transmission Connector
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19076

FWIW.
I jacked the front end of the Sprinter up high and installed jack stands for the connector change. Very little fluid was lost.

vic

So you are saying just leave the old connector in and try to push it farther in to seat the o-ring better and don’t replace the part with a new one? Also any ideas about what to use as the “mechanical part” to keep the connector in place. I’m a long way from home and I have limited resources at the moment.

 

[Patrick of M]

The contact plate is not that expensive and they are prone to failure of the VSS anyway, you could just get a new one. Then have this one for spares (last time I looked the VSS weren’t for sale separately but really changing a VSS is all I needed to fix my contact plate.

 

[Jmcgrath003]

The contact plate is not that expensive and they are prone to failure of the VSS anyway, you could just get a new one. Then have this one for spares (last time I looked the VSS weren’t for sale separately but really changing a VSS is all I needed to fix my contact plate.

When you say contact plate your talking about the conductor plate right? And what is the VSS?

 

[Patrick of M]

When you say contact plate your talking about the conductor plate right? And what is the VSS?

Yes conductor plate, I have some kind of mental block when naming it. VSS is Vehicle Speed Sensor, (which are actually gear speed sensors/may be called GSS for all I know, given my issues with nomenclature ) there are 2 on the conductor plate, one for 2nd one for 3rd gear.

 

[Jmcgrath003]

Will the bolt gently re-tighen?

Or is it stripped in both directions?

bill

Seems stripped both ways

 

[Midwestdrifter]

If its spinning, you should be able to lever the plug out. Worst case you need to replacing the conductor plate (150$), which requires dropping the valve body.

 

[220629]

So you are saying just leave the old connector in and try to push it farther in to seat the o-ring better and don’t replace the part with a new one?
...

No... YES!!!!!!!

Also any ideas about what to use as the “mechanical part” to keep the connector in place. I’m a long way from home and I have limited resources at the moment.

Don't screw around. You are far from home and have limited resources.

Assuming no vehicle operating issues...

Best would be to check the transmission fluid level. But that requires a proper dipstick which isn't included with your Sprinter.

As long as everything is running properly, don't worry about fluid level leave things alone until it gives symptoms or you return home.

Go back to the post and click the links which I gave you. There are some ideas there for stabilizing the connector body using cable ties. Use that method.

Screw around with new parts and conductor plates after you are back where you can work effectively.

vic

 

[Midwestdrifter]

I agree, if your away from home, check the level and drive.

 

[Nautamaran]

I agree, if your away from home, check the level and drive.

+1 to this.

I purchased a plumber’s snake to dip my ATF fluid, snipping the bell-end off to leave the 1/4” spring. The snake pushes in 40-something inches to the cone on the conductor plate, then another five to the bottom of the pan. Note that there are two NAG1 fluid level charts circulating. One is for the MB style tool with “stop ears” and indexes against a cone in the conductor plate, measuring from the dangling end of the tool. The other chart is for “Tool 9336” which lacks ears and bottoms out against the pan, extending about 10mm further than the “eared” tools.

-dave