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mcjohnson5174- Thanks for the write up. Can you give any details on the mounted fuse box you installed. I am looking to do something simular to your set up. Thanks
Agreed! I would like to know as wellmcjohnson5174- Thanks for the write up. Can you give any details on the mounted fuse box you installed. I am looking to do something simular to your set up. Thanks
View attachment 141068
Not sure if this is too late for you, but at least on my 2019, there is already an 80A fuse prior to stud#6, under that plastic cover. I'm going to use stud #6 and don't plan to add another fuse or breaker under the seat. I'll put a disconnect closer to my DC-DC for convenience. If you wanted a 100A fuse you could just replace the 80A fuse that is there. Nice and clean, no tape needed.Would one of these terminal fuses fit in stud #6 location? View attachment 134355
It would save some lug connections, but not sure if it would be best to just go with the resettable fuses I see people attaching with 3M tape.
No worries. I ended up putting a 60 amp resettable fuse right after the post. It worked out well. I didn't need to purchase any of the MB parts quoted early in the thread since the EK1 was installed.Not sure if this is too late for you, but at least on my 2019, there is already an 80A fuse prior to stud#6, under that plastic cover. I'm going to use stud #6 and don't plan to add another fuse or breaker under the seat. I'll put a disconnect closer to my DC-DC for convenience. If you wanted a 100A fuse you could just replace the 80A fuse that is there. Nice and clean, no tape needed.
I posted a picture here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/82125/post-886342
You don't need to switch the (-) wiring. Electricity won't flow if there's only one wire attached to a power source.when connecting Aux battery and Goal Zero to a fuse box through a switch, can I hook up both the Aux & GZ to fuse box Ground ( - ) ? Or do I need to add another switch to isolate the gz negative cable from vehicle ground and vice versa?
That's more complicated: do you WANT the two batteries to see each other?Second, I see 3 position switches ( off, batt 1 or batt 2 ) and 4 position switches that also have batt 1 + 2 at the same time. Could the Aux Battery and Goal Zero be both connected at the same time to the Fuse box in the ( 1+2 ) switch location? They have separate grounding, one is lithium the other agm etc...
thank you dick!You don't need to switch the (-) wiring. Electricity won't flow if there's only one wire attached to a power source.
That's more complicated: do you WANT the two batteries to see each other?
If they're at different levels of charge significant currents could be trying to rush from one to the other to equalize them.
(there's no current regulation in that situation ... one may fry (or exceed the recommended charge rate) the other.
The usual reason for a 4-position switch is if there's a charger (or alternator) involved along with a battery on one side of the switch. (think "starting battery and alternator" on side 1, and "house battery" on side 2)
Like an isolation relay, using the 1+2 position allows the alternator to charge *both* batteries.
But it's usually recommended that the two sides be more-or-less equal (same chemistry at least).
--dick
Matt,I made a couple diagrams that I think might help others...once I get this figured out I will make a final one.
First here is a quick ref for under the seat
View attachment 121356
Second here is the F150/1 labels. Guys have said to tap off there. Not super sure on these, but I think so. The open spot is #2, seems like a logical tap, but it isn't hot. Needs a bridge/jumper?
View attachment 121357
Or could just screw on to top terminal of battery too?
Here is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?
View attachment 121358
View attachment 121359
For lower voltage...there is the EK1 also..
View attachment 121360
Im trying to achieve two things:
1. Tap the Goal Zero Yeti alternator charger
2. Tap for a fuse panel when GZ is not in van.
Thanks
Matt
Im in Minnesota, and have yet to find a knowledgeable pro within a days drive. For all of you that are in areas that have them, consider yourself lucky.
Happy new yearHere is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?
View attachment 121358
View attachment 121359
Can you take a photo? We are trying to solve this same problem. Thank you!I made a small bus bar out of copper tubing to give power to stud #1 and a Midi fuse to connect to stud #2. This connects to my Sterling B2B charger which is limited to 30A. Seems to work well.
I made a couple diagrams that I think might help others...once I get this figured out I will make a final one.
First here is a quick ref for under the seat
View attachment 121356
Second here is the F150/1 labels. Guys have said to tap off there. Not super sure on these, but I think so. The open spot is #2, seems like a logical tap, but it isn't hot. Needs a bridge/jumper?
View attachment 121357
Or could just screw on to top terminal of battery too?
Here is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?
View attachment 121358
View attachment 121359
For lower voltage...there is the EK1 also..
View attachment 121360
Im trying to achieve two things:
1. Tap the Goal Zero Yeti alternator charger
2. Tap for a fuse panel when GZ is not in van.
Thanks
Matt
Im in Minnesota, and have yet to find a knowledgeable pro within a days drive. For all of you that are in areas that have them, consider yourself lucky.
do you have a final close up photo of your factory fuse set up with slots 2 and 6 connected?I made a couple diagrams that I think might help others...once I get this figured out I will make a final one.
First here is a quick ref for under the seat
View attachment 121356
Second here is the F150/1 labels. Guys have said to tap off there. Not super sure on these, but I think so. The open spot is #2, seems like a logical tap, but it isn't hot. Needs a bridge/jumper?
View attachment 121357
Or could just screw on to top terminal of battery too?
Here is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?
View attachment 121358
View attachment 121359
For lower voltage...there is the EK1 also..
View attachment 121360
Im trying to achieve two things:
1. Tap the Goal Zero Yeti alternator charger
2. Tap for a fuse panel when GZ is not in van.
Thanks
Matt
Im in Minnesota, and have yet to find a knowledgeable pro within a days drive. For all of you that are in areas that have them, consider yourself lucky.
Thanks for sharing this info; very useful. I am going to repeat the same using terminal #6. I have a question about the location of your resettable fuse; is it accessible without removing the seat? I am trying to a find a location that is easy to access and I am thinking at the base of the driver seat from the outside on the back but would prefer inside the seat base if I can access it. ThanksNo worries. I ended up putting a 60 amp resettable fuse right after the post. It worked out well. I didn't need to purchase any of the MB parts quoted early in the thread since the EK1 was installed.
I attached mine to the inside front of the driver seat pedestal. You can see it in the upper left of this photo (left side of photo is toward the front of the van.) Plenty of room there and you can reach it to reset it if you need to. I also fit my 24/12 DC-DC converter in there.Thanks for sharing this info; very useful. I am going to repeat the same using terminal #6. I have a question about the location of your resettable fuse; is it accessible without removing the seat? I am trying to a find a location that is easy to access and I am thinking at the base of the driver seat from the outside on the back but would prefer inside the seat base if I can access it. Thanks
It is not accessible without removing the seat. In hindsight, this will be a pain if the fuse pops but I didn't have a good external solution. Ideally, it shouldn't pop unless there is a catastrophic failure. There are a lot of other fuses under the seat...so I just took that same approach.Thanks for sharing this info; very useful. I am going to repeat the same using terminal #6. I have a question about the location of your resettable fuse; is it accessible without removing the seat? I am trying to a find a location that is easy to access and I am thinking at the base of the driver seat from the outside on the back but would prefer inside the seat base if I can access it. Thanks