VS30 Under Seat wiring Diagram F150/1, F150/4, F150/5, EK1 Goal Zero Yeti Charging

907970

New member
mcjohnson5174- Thanks for the write up. Can you give any details on the mounted fuse box you installed. I am looking to do something simular to your set up. Thanks
1589378170486.png
 

Airtime

Active member
Would one of these terminal fuses fit in stud #6 location? View attachment 134355

It would save some lug connections, but not sure if it would be best to just go with the resettable fuses I see people attaching with 3M tape.
Not sure if this is too late for you, but at least on my 2019, there is already an 80A fuse prior to stud#6, under that plastic cover. I'm going to use stud #6 and don't plan to add another fuse or breaker under the seat. I'll put a disconnect closer to my DC-DC for convenience. If you wanted a 100A fuse you could just replace the 80A fuse that is there. Nice and clean, no tape needed.

I posted a picture here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/82125/post-886342
 

fourbeer

Member
Not sure if this is too late for you, but at least on my 2019, there is already an 80A fuse prior to stud#6, under that plastic cover. I'm going to use stud #6 and don't plan to add another fuse or breaker under the seat. I'll put a disconnect closer to my DC-DC for convenience. If you wanted a 100A fuse you could just replace the 80A fuse that is there. Nice and clean, no tape needed.

I posted a picture here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/82125/post-886342
No worries. I ended up putting a 60 amp resettable fuse right after the post. It worked out well. I didn't need to purchase any of the MB parts quoted early in the thread since the EK1 was installed.
 

Attachments

buildyourown

New member
Digging around under the seat looking for a place to attached my aux battery charger. That #6 stud with the 80amp fuse looks like the perfect spot.
Anybody figure out how to change this fuse if and when it blows?
Looks like I have to remove that whole cover but thats a lot of work for a fuse. It would actually be nice to put in a smaller fuse so I can run a smaller wire to my 30amp charger. Also, it looks like you can add a fuse to the #11 stud. (mine is unused)
 

zither99

Active member
How would one connect a Battery Selection switch to direct power from the Sprinter AUX battery to a Fuse Box or the GoalZero? Positive cables go to the Switch, but what about the ground/negative? Do they boy terminate at the Fuse box, since the goal zero isn't grounded with the vehicle...?
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
There is no negative attachment point at the VS30 Aux connections box.
The easiest answers are to tie to the frame metal where the Goal Zero is located, or use one of the seat pedestal attachment bolts as your negative "post". Cleaning away the Sprinter's paint underneath the negative cable's ring terminal will give a better connection.

--dick
 

zither99

Active member
620E4881-1852-40CD-B311-E04A02E0EBD9.jpeg
I have 2 details I wanted help with

when connecting Aux battery and Goal Zero to a fuse box through a switch, can I hook up both the Aux & GZ to fuse box Ground ( - ) ? Or do I need to add another switch to isolate the gz negative cable from vehicle ground and vice versa?

Second, I see 3 position switches ( off, batt 1 or batt 2 ) and 4 position switches that also have batt 1 + 2 at the same time. Could the Aux Battery and Goal Zero be both connected at the same time to the Fuse box in the ( 1+2 ) switch location? They have separate grounding, one is lithium the other agm etc...

thank you for you input!
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
when connecting Aux battery and Goal Zero to a fuse box through a switch, can I hook up both the Aux & GZ to fuse box Ground ( - ) ? Or do I need to add another switch to isolate the gz negative cable from vehicle ground and vice versa?
You don't need to switch the (-) wiring. Electricity won't flow if there's only one wire attached to a power source.
Second, I see 3 position switches ( off, batt 1 or batt 2 ) and 4 position switches that also have batt 1 + 2 at the same time. Could the Aux Battery and Goal Zero be both connected at the same time to the Fuse box in the ( 1+2 ) switch location? They have separate grounding, one is lithium the other agm etc...
That's more complicated: do you WANT the two batteries to see each other?
If they're at different levels of charge significant currents could be trying to rush from one to the other to equalize them.
(there's no current regulation in that situation ... one may fry (or exceed the recommended charge rate) the other.

The usual reason for a 4-position switch is if there's a charger (or alternator) involved along with a battery on one side of the switch. (think "starting battery and alternator" on side 1, and "house battery" on side 2)
Like an isolation relay, using the 1+2 position allows the alternator to charge *both* batteries.
But it's usually recommended that the two sides be more-or-less equal (same chemistry at least).

--dick
 

zither99

Active member
You don't need to switch the (-) wiring. Electricity won't flow if there's only one wire attached to a power source.

That's more complicated: do you WANT the two batteries to see each other?
If they're at different levels of charge significant currents could be trying to rush from one to the other to equalize them.
(there's no current regulation in that situation ... one may fry (or exceed the recommended charge rate) the other.

The usual reason for a 4-position switch is if there's a charger (or alternator) involved along with a battery on one side of the switch. (think "starting battery and alternator" on side 1, and "house battery" on side 2)
Like an isolation relay, using the 1+2 position allows the alternator to charge *both* batteries.
But it's usually recommended that the two sides be more-or-less equal (same chemistry at least).

--dick
thank you dick!

no I don’t want them tosee each other or work together. The 4-position switches are just cheaper so I figured I’d ask.

I just want to switch over to the Aux Battery when I remove the GZ out of the van and still want the lights/fan to function. Keeping in mind my lower aH capacity of the aux battery of course.
 

roadcycle

New member
I made a couple diagrams that I think might help others...once I get this figured out I will make a final one.

First here is a quick ref for under the seat
View attachment 121356

Second here is the F150/1 labels. Guys have said to tap off there. Not super sure on these, but I think so. The open spot is #2, seems like a logical tap, but it isn't hot. Needs a bridge/jumper?
View attachment 121357

Or could just screw on to top terminal of battery too?

Here is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?

View attachment 121358
View attachment 121359

For lower voltage...there is the EK1 also..
View attachment 121360

Im trying to achieve two things:
1. Tap the Goal Zero Yeti alternator charger
2. Tap for a fuse panel when GZ is not in van.

Thanks

Matt

Im in Minnesota, and have yet to find a knowledgeable pro within a days drive. For all of you that are in areas that have them, consider yourself lucky.
Matt,
I’m ready to install my Goal Zero.
Can you assist with where to locate driver seat removal instructions?
Thank you,
Joe
 

Eric B

Well-known member
@roadcycle
If you've just been driving your van, wait 10-15min for post shutdown emissions whirrs and bleeps to complete under the hood.

Then disconnect battery using quick disconnect located to the right of accel pedal behind removable plastic trim

Then remove the 4 torx bolts that hold the factory swivel to the metal pedestal, or if you don't have a factory swivel then the 4 torx bolts that hold the seat slider rails to the metal pedestal

Then prior to removing the seat off of the metal pedestal, unplug the wiring going up in to the seat (SRS airbag + electric seat functions and/or seat heater)

Then remove seat and set aside
 

ecrowe

Member
Slot 6 is listed in the fuse allocation as "Glow output stage (GZE)". Anyone know what that is? Or if it even matters? Seems to be working for others, so I'm guessing it's not connected to anything other than the battery
 

^Tom^

New member
Here is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?

View attachment 121358
View attachment 121359
Happy new year
This was very helpful to me, thank you very much.

I connected my extra battery to #3, but I think this is wrong, because then there is no fuse between the alternator and my relais (I have a 200A fuse) between the relais and my extra battery)

If I would connect it to #4 then it is a 300A fuse between, is this right?
See mcjohnson5174: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?attachments/121358/
 
Last edited:

PizzaCat

New member
I made a small bus bar out of copper tubing to give power to stud #1 and a Midi fuse to connect to stud #2. This connects to my Sterling B2B charger which is limited to 30A. Seems to work well.

Can you take a photo? We are trying to solve this same problem. Thank you!
 

PizzaCat

New member
I made a couple diagrams that I think might help others...once I get this figured out I will make a final one.

First here is a quick ref for under the seat
View attachment 121356

Second here is the F150/1 labels. Guys have said to tap off there. Not super sure on these, but I think so. The open spot is #2, seems like a logical tap, but it isn't hot. Needs a bridge/jumper?
View attachment 121357

Or could just screw on to top terminal of battery too?

Here is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?

View attachment 121358
View attachment 121359

For lower voltage...there is the EK1 also..
View attachment 121360

Im trying to achieve two things:
1. Tap the Goal Zero Yeti alternator charger
2. Tap for a fuse panel when GZ is not in van.

Thanks

Matt

Im in Minnesota, and have yet to find a knowledgeable pro within a days drive. For all of you that are in areas that have them, consider yourself lucky.
 

PizzaCat

New member
I made a couple diagrams that I think might help others...once I get this figured out I will make a final one.

First here is a quick ref for under the seat
View attachment 121356

Second here is the F150/1 labels. Guys have said to tap off there. Not super sure on these, but I think so. The open spot is #2, seems like a logical tap, but it isn't hot. Needs a bridge/jumper?
View attachment 121357

Or could just screw on to top terminal of battery too?

Here is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?

View attachment 121358
View attachment 121359

For lower voltage...there is the EK1 also..
View attachment 121360

Im trying to achieve two things:
1. Tap the Goal Zero Yeti alternator charger
2. Tap for a fuse panel when GZ is not in van.

Thanks

Matt

Im in Minnesota, and have yet to find a knowledgeable pro within a days drive. For all of you that are in areas that have them, consider yourself lucky.
do you have a final close up photo of your factory fuse set up with slots 2 and 6 connected?
 

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