VS30 Under Seat wiring Diagram F150/1, F150/4, F150/5, EK1 Goal Zero Yeti Charging

I made a couple diagrams that I think might help others...once I get this figured out I will make a final one.

First here is a quick ref for under the seat
What is under my seat2.jpg

Second here is the F150/1 labels. Guys have said to tap off there. Not super sure on these, but I think so. The open spot is #2, seems like a logical tap, but it isn't hot. Needs a bridge/jumper?
F150:1 diagram.jpg

Or could just screw on to top terminal of battery too?

Here is the F150/4. Read a lot about this location, just not any useful instruction. The Fuse Assignment Supplement 2018-11 does not appear to be accurate. I heard there is another one?I have a 2019 4x4 and this supplement was included in my stuff, but does not appear to match up. I just focused on 1-7 as I think this appears to be a logical place to tap. No idea what, if any fuses are attached? Why not tap in here? If so, where?

F150:4 diagram.jpg
F150:4 supp pg.jpg

For lower voltage...there is the EK1 also..
EK1.png

Im trying to achieve two things:
1. Tap the Goal Zero Yeti alternator charger
2. Tap for a fuse panel when GZ is not in van.

Thanks

Matt

Im in Minnesota, and have yet to find a knowledgeable pro within a days drive. For all of you that are in areas that have them, consider yourself lucky.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Thanks ... does the F150/1 stud (2) that you've attached "my cable" to attach to anything, or is it just embedded in the block's plastic?

...and probably a follow-on question is what/where does the "battery sensor (1)" stud go?

Are both of those just bus-barred to the battery +, simply out-of-sight?

nice photos...
--dick
 
Stud 2 & Stud 1 just appear to be embedded in the block plastic. Good question about simply out of sight. Curious to why some would be embedded and others connected through surface mounted plates?
 

dynaco1

Member
Studs imbedded in plastic are probably the provisions for the far end (down stream) of the Fuse termination. Install fuse and land cable lug here??
 
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I made a small bus bar out of copper tubing to give power to stud #1 and a Midi fuse to connect to stud #2. This connects to my Sterling B2B charger which is limited to 30A. Seems to work well.

 

kitebeard

New member
This is very useful. So is this working for charging your goal zero? Curious if you ever found more information on tying in under the seat and not at the battery. I'd prefer to tie in under the seat but like you I cant find very useful info.

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I ended up using slot 2 and 7 as labelled in my diagram of f150/4. (slot 6 did not have power) Works perfect.

I decided to put a battery switch in. I ran slot 2 to 50 amp breaker then to battery switch (the starter battery) and ran the goal zero to the battery switch. From the battery switch I went to a fuse panel for all of the circuits. This way, if I don't have the goal zero, I can use the starter battery for all circuits.

I ran slot 7 to a 100 amp breaker and then to goal zero for charging.

I have been very pleased with this set up. Hope that helps
 

kitebeard

New member
Thanks for the response! So for simply recharging the GZ tie into #7 with 100 amp fuse?

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kitebeard

New member
Forgive me. I threw a voltmeter (+) on #7 in F150/4 and (-) on the seat base bolt and there is nothing when the van is running and after running for about 30 minutes. I see #7 in your picture with your added connections and have circled it below for reference. Am I oversimplifying this?


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kitebeard

New member
#7 isnt hot when off or on. From what I can tell, the F150/4 is the same. I'll do some more testing tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

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kitebeard

New member
I spent the last few days trying to sort this out. I ended up just tying directly to the + terminal on the battery. Works great. Thanks for your help!

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fourbeer

Member
This thread has been incredibly helpful.

I plan on running a 4 gauge wire from under the seat to the rear of my van to connect a DC/DC charger. Would I need to run a ground wire in parallel or would I be able to just connect to the ground input to the chassis in the rear and avoid the cost and hassle of running two 4 gauge wires?
 
That Im not sure about....I ran everything to the factory grounding location under the seat. I did notice a ground location in the back driver side upper corner.
 

fourbeer

Member
Would one of these terminal fuses fit in stud #6 location? terminal_fuse.jpg

It would save some lug connections, but not sure if it would be best to just go with the resettable fuses I see people attaching with 3M tape.
 
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