leaking injector?

No actually your not,figured id finish up tomorrow morning.i did see that document.what i guess has me a little tripped up is after unlocking the clip and removing do you return it to the lock position and then push it on?or do you leave it unlocked push it down and then push the lock down?thats where im stuck,and yes iv got the round connector as well.hope i'm explaining it correctly
 

manwithgun

Active member
From my previous post, you may have missed it: "You should feel a "click" with your thumb when the return line connector fully seats on the injector nipple. Make sure that the little o-ring is still on the nipple and not damaged. I've had one come off in the connector. As far as the locking clip, there are two types. I've only seen the ring type and it should easily snap down into the locked position if/after properly seated on the nipple. (so lock ring last)"

Check o-ring, lock ring up (open), press connector down with thumb until you feel/hear a "click", snap lock ring down, drink beer...
 
ok this might be a long one,got the passenger side done and thought might as well do the drivers,after the passenger side was done took her for a ride to heat it up got back home turned it off to remove the piping and such before i did went to start it to pull up a little farther and it would not start just click click.,thought to myself whats the chance of the starter going out,Removed the starter took it in to be checked and it would just make a buzzing noise.Ordered one and went back home to attempt to remove the injectors without it running to help push them out.it was still pretty hot upon removing the piping and covers discovered front drivers cyl had a small leak(not near as bad as the passenger side)got the front and middle injector out but the rear by the brake booster will not budge soaked it over night with kroil no luck.now im thinking just put it back together and wait for the rear cyl to start leaking and deal with it later.It was not leaking.i have noticed the leaking injectors seem to come out easier that the non leakers for some reason.if i can leave the rear injector in do i use another new stretch bolt(which i have)and torque down as normal or put the old bolt back in tighten and see what happens as far as leaks go.sorry to be so long winded on this but this stuck injector has thrown me for a loop.not to mention a starter going out.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
ok this might be a long one,got the passenger side done and thought might as well do the drivers,after the passenger side was done took her for a ride to heat it up got back home turned it off to remove the piping and such before i did went to start it to pull up a little farther and it would not start just click click.,thought to myself whats the chance of the starter going out,Removed the starter took it in to be checked and it would just make a buzzing noise.Ordered one and went back home to attempt to remove the injectors without it running to help push them out.it was still pretty hot upon removing the piping and covers discovered front drivers cyl had a small leak(not near as bad as the passenger side)got the front and middle injector out but the rear by the brake booster will not budge soaked it over night with kroil no luck.now im thinking just put it back together and wait for the rear cyl to start leaking and deal with it later.It was not leaking.i have noticed the leaking injectors seem to come out easier that the non leakers for some reason.if i can leave the rear injector in do i use another new stretch bolt(which i have)and torque down as normal or put the old bolt back in tighten and see what happens as far as leaks go.sorry to be so long winded on this but this stuck injector has thrown me for a loop.not to mention a starter going out.
YOU MUST use a new bolt every time--don't risk it for 3 bucks !
Dennis
 

Jbernielh

Member
Remove the cover, many do!
Dennis
it sure is a lot easier to keep an eye on things with the covers off.. I'm just changing the seals on the turbo resonator.. the inlet was weeping a bit.. I think it was removed when the glow plugs were done at a shop in SoCal a couple years ago and then reassembled with the original seals..

I haven't driven it yet with both covers and insulation pads removed but I'm interested to see if any engine noise becomes more noticeable..

Dennis I'm assuming from your comment above that you don't see anything detrimental in operating sans covers? I've noticed a couple lines, wires hoses etc that I'll secure with them removed

Bernie
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
As a rule, we fix anything under the covers, leave them off and do test runs .
Once passed off as "good" then its install the covers, do a quick test finalize everything then ship it!
Dennis
 
it sure is a lot easier to keep an eye on things with the covers off.. I'm just changing the seals on the turbo resonator.. the inlet was weeping a bit.. I think it was removed when the glow plugs were done at a shop in SoCal a couple years ago and then reassembled with the original seals..

I haven't driven it yet with both covers and insulation pads removed but I'm interested to see if any engine noise becomes more noticeable..

Dennis I'm assuming from your comment above that you don't see anything detrimental in operating sans covers? I've noticed a couple lines, wires hoses etc that I'll secure with them removed

Bernie
i noticed no real noise difference but keep in mind that i had 3 leaking injectors that make a fair amount of noise chuffing(as dennis puts it)i had no idea how loud it was until new injector seals were installed.not to mention exhaust smell.id like to thank everyone that helped me through this surgery.
 
Thought i would update my injector lower sealing ring experience,drove about 300 miles runs great but noticed a diesel smell,well the leak lines are exactly doing their job LEAKING.if i were ever to do this again get new injector o rings 2 are leaking id replace them all.dont be fooled by them not leaking at first, my experince they probably will later.
 
Just wanted to chime in on this thread. Thanks to this thread and some youtube videos I successfully pulled the 4 leakers today, without breaking bolts or having to deal with stuck injectors.

The black death build up was pretty bad. I spent one day soaking with carb cleaner and scraping and wiping. Next day 4 hours of repeated soaking with PB Blaster and repeated taps on the injector bolts (no idea if the taps helped, but I did it anyways) . With the engine cold, I loosened just enough to hear it break the torque then a little back and forth until the bolt felt free then backed out.

Success. Back together tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

IMG_8043.jpg
 

sparkplug

Active member
I'm sure you've done your research - but just in case here's my advice from my first (and only to date) attempt at removing/replacing injectors....

1) New bolts and washers all round are a must!

2) Make sure those bolt holes are properly clean. I thought mine were, but they weren't and it threw my torque settings off. Use a proper cleaning / chaser bolt or make one by grinding a flat on one of the old bolts. Lots of brake cleaner / PB Blaster and tighten the bolt, loosen the bolt, wipe the bolt clean and repeat until the bolt feels smooth all the way in and out and there's no more dirt being picked up by it.

3) Small dab of grease on the washer will help stick it to the injector and make life easy when putting it back in (as always credit to Dennis for this excellent tip)

4) If using OEM washers they are slightly curved. I followed advice from others that they should be fitted so that there's no gap when the washer is fitted to the injector (hard to describe but if you imagine the washer as a bowl then the injector comes in from the top of the bowl and pokes out the bottom)

Don't know if it works the other way round or not - but 'top of the bowl' method worked for me.

5) Injectors should go back into the same hole they came out of. This might be too late if you didn't number them as they came out.

6) Use a torque wrench. 7Nm initially (which is actually not very tight) on each bolt. Then go back and turn each bolt a further 90º. Then repeat and turn each bolt 90º a second time.

7) Given how inexpensive they are - replace the o-rings on your injectors so you don't get leaks on the fuel return line. DAMHIK

8) Don't put the cover on to start with. Fire up the engine and check the injectors for any puffs of smoke and the return line for any leaks. If it's all good then put the cover on and give yourself a pat on the back!

Good luck - and let us know how you got on.
 
Looks like I pulled it off. The only thing I am not totally confident in is the torque on the high pressure connectors. I'll order the Snap On crows foot referenced above and follow up with that torque.

I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the top of the head, and each bolt hole and injector bore and seat. I used a small caliber rifle brush for the bolt hole and lots of cleaner and chasing it with a bolt followed by compressed air. I used the factory plug, bore brush and seat brush to clean the injector bores. I was able to use the factory puller on two of the four injectors, but had to use some prying and luck to get the other two out. I saw a good video of someone using unistrut across the head with a through bolt to the injector which was my back up plan. Everything clean, greased (maybe too much) and assembled. Couple of good hard test drives just now and seems to be running great.

I was quoted $2000 - $5000 by the dealer for this job. Seemed simple, but risky with the bolts potentially breaking. I spent lots of time prepping and it all came apart ok.

I think I have $350 in tools, parts and consumables. It took about two days to do the job, with lots of back and forth with prep and cleaning. Probably 8 hours total labor.

Thanks a lot to everyone in this thread, and the Sprinter YouTube contributors.

One of the worst offenders, after cleaning the surfaces and pulling the injector -
Before.jpg

After final cleaning and prep. You can see the brass plug still in the injector opening -
After.jpg

Tools -
Tools.jpg
 
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Trying to order the crows foot for the fuel line nuts. I used an 18 mm box end wrench to remove and reinstall but I could not get a good torque on a couple of the ends. I am trying to order the Snap On 3/8" Drive 12-Point Metric Deep Flank Drive® Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench 18mm and it does not exist. I called Snap On and they don't make it in an 18mm.

Will the 17mm fit?

 

sparkplug

Active member
Different engine to you so possibly different sizes but the solution might still be OK for you.

I needed a 17mm and could only find one as part of a set of 6 fuel line specific wrenches in the UK.

This seemed like wasting money on tools I'm not likely to ever use again so I thought I'd try a DIY solution which worked perfectly in the end.



Just a standard ring spanner with a notch cut out with an angle grinder (hacksaw would have worked just as well)

I was concerned that this would 'open up' when applying force and while there was a bit of flex it managed to do the job without issue.

5000 miles later and no problems to report.

Cheap solution which worked for me.
 

manwithgun

Active member
Did the same with an offset box wrench set from Harbor Freight. On the V6 OM642 it’s 17mm @injector and 18mm @rail. I even cut down and notched the 22mm to use on various exhaust sensors. You may need to grind away a bit of the casting to get full range when working around the injector. The complete metric set is under $20...


E184238F-DBEE-4284-8F22-ED1A9CBFA166.png
 

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