Schematic Rev 1 Review Please!

Rafrojack

New member
Hi fellow van nomads,


I've been knee deep in analysis over my electrical system for my van. Please take a look at the attached picture & let me know what needs to be changed! I've placed questions that I'm worried about in the same graphic. Positive criticism is needed! My main wickets to hit are:



1. More than enough power for two people.



2. Most up to date configuration on theory & parts.



3. Great quality parts & workmanship. Also, minimum # of parts/wiring without sacrificing safety & workmanship.



4. Shore power access & alternator b2b charger for emergencies.

Follow this link for the schematic!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8UmgEJ6jvUdvvnbL7

Thank you for coming to my TEDVanLife talk.
 

Attachments

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Rafrojack

New member
Hi fellow van nomads,


I've been knee deep in analysis over my electrical system for my van. Please take a look at the attached picture & let me know what needs to be changed! I've placed questions that I'm worried about in the same graphic. Positive criticism is needed! My main wickets to hit are:



1. More than enough power for two people.



2. Most up to date configuration on theory & parts.



3. Great quality parts & workmanship. Also, minimum # of parts/wiring without sacrificing safety & workmanship.



4. Shore power access & alternator b2b charger for emergencies.

Follow this link for the schematic!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8UmgEJ6jvUdvvnbL7


Thank you for coming to my TEDVanLife talk.
 

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Last edited:

hein

Van Guru
Please increase the size or resolution of your drawing. (link is broken) (fixed link)
I can't make out the smaller text. PDF format would be great.
You probably want a shunt based battery monitor in the system.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
541 490 5098
 
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hein

Van Guru
What are the appliances you plan to run using the inverter? 3000 watts is a lot and requires close to 300A on the DC side. You would need 4/0 cables or larger for that. As mentioned, you need a battery monitor. The DC wiring is confusing so not sure how you have things connected. Next revision would be to add shunt & monitor and revise to make the DC side more readable. Probably want a master on/off switch on the DC side as well.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
541 490 5098
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
First thing noticed: the "case ground" of your inverter/charger wants to go directly to the frame, not via the negative bus bar.
It's a safety thing ("earthing" any component failures inside the inv/chrg). Your shore power "third pin" wants to go to the frame, too.

I am amused by the thought of dual-chemistries and dual-voltages (24v AGM, 12v LiFePO4)
I assume your 180 amp alternator is a 2nd 24v alternator.

Since you're not using the Sprinter's native 12v system, you could isolate your entire LiFePO4-powered house system from the Sprinter's negative. The "ignition" switch input to the 24v charger could use a relay to separate it from the Sprinter ground, too.
You don't show the positive and negative feeds from your Alternator.

--dick
 

mikecol

Member
Batteries show a inline 200A fuse....not sure if this is a single fuse or one on each battery; can go either way, but I like to fuse each one with smaller fuse value (MRBF) and hope they
share current somewhat equally. For safety best to have this close to batteries. Wiring batteries is very important and not shown correctly on diagram. Pos feed should be at Batt1 and
Ned feed should be at Batt3; so the cable resistances are equal to each battery.

You show 2 temp sensors. Most LifePO4 batteries charge profile don't want/require temp adjustment....may not need them.

8 guage wires going to DC-DC charger are not protected....only 200A fuse (single?) from batteries. Likely need Pos buss bar and MRBF fuses for each branch to protect the wiring.

8 guage wires going to 12V DC fuse Box are not protected.....only 200A fuse...

Battery fuse and main Inverter fuse should be good quality i.e. MRBF or Class-T. need these to clearly disconnect when there is a problem.

120V AC panel shows 200A main breaker....wow!! prob needs to be 30A or smaller for 3000W inverter.

Wires between battery and inverter likely need to be 4/0 as others mentioned....and lug sizes need to match studs.

I'm sure you would want to add a battery monitor. This would require the shunt to be inline with the neg buss bar. Sure would
help keep track of the battery health. Many use Victron BVM712.

You don't have any switching/disconnects so it is going to be a mess/danger working on all the "live" circuits. At a min, I would have a main battery disconnect switch. For each disconnect added, must
verify what problems that creates on any power sources....i.e. may blow charge controllers, alternator diodes...
 

Robert-NE

New member
The two yellow tops are in series and not parallel.
The "Alternator" arrow is pointing at two 12v batteries in series.

... i have to believe what he provided. --dick
I am not aware of Renogy making a 24v B2B charger, and he included a note below the two batteries that they should total 200A @ 12V. If he intended it to be a 24v system, they would total 100A @ 24V. It is obviously a diagram error and the batteries should be parallel, not series.
 

wankel7

Member
I would go with a better solar controller. I had the tracer and while nice I wish I got the Victron SmartSolar at first.

If you stick with the tracer you don't need the temp sensor.the mt50 is a display not a controller.

I honestly don't think the b2b is needed.... assuming while alt charging you don't mind watching the charge, never plan on topping house batteries, and don't alt charge while using a heavily loaded inverter. Regardless, put fuses on both sides of the alt charging system close to the batteries for each side.

Have you looked at LifeBlue? They have a 300ah heated LFP battery. they also have a BT app that shows total cycles, temp, current, and faults.

You want a shunt based battery meter. I'm using a bmv712... spendy but I like it.

Use GFCI outlets

What are your loads that demand a 3k inverter?

Have you considered less panels at higher watts?

You want a CB between your panels and controller and between controller and batt. Look at the.Blue Seas and Bussman ones.
 

Rafrojack

New member
Alright so ground for MPPT & Inverter should be chassis grounds. IF for some reason I can't get a chassis ground then my neg bus bar would have to work right?

& So I'm getting the feeling that my 3500 Dually Diesel runs off of two 12v batteries in series? If that is the absolute case I can throw an converter between the two starting batts to step it down to 12v then run it through the DC2DC charger. That should work right?

I'm not completely understanding your last statement pertaining to the 12v native system & separating my grounds. Thanks!


First thing noticed: the "case ground" of your inverter/charger wants to go directly to the frame, not via the negative bus bar.
It's a safety thing ("earthing" any component failures inside the inv/chrg). Your shore power "third pin" wants to go to the frame, too.

I am amused by the thought of dual-chemistries and dual-voltages (24v AGM, 12v LiFePO4)
I assume your 180 amp alternator is a 2nd 24v alternator.

Since you're not using the Sprinter's native 12v system, you could isolate your entire LiFePO4-powered house system from the Sprinter's negative. The "ignition" switch input to the 24v charger could use a relay to separate it from the Sprinter ground, too.
You don't show the positive and negative feeds from your Alternator.

--dick
 

Rafrojack

New member
Okay so a MRBF on each battery, how large on amps?

So my pos end of the batteries will end at Batt one & the negative end will end at batt 3 which will be in parallel of course.

Okay so no temp sensors?

Add a positive bus bar with MRBF fuses on each branch instead of a 200a CB?

CB for 120v PDB should be 30amps instead of 200a?

Yup so batteyr monitor with a shunt is a def, just got to figure out which I'd like to use.

& disconnects will be placed into the system. Actual cutoff switches & not CBs correct?

Thanks!

Batteries show a inline 200A fuse....not sure if this is a single fuse or one on each battery; can go either way, but I like to fuse each one with smaller fuse value (MRBF) and hope they
share current somewhat equally. For safety best to have this close to batteries. Wiring batteries is very important and not shown correctly on diagram. Pos feed should be at Batt1 and
Ned feed should be at Batt3; so the cable resistances are equal to each battery.

You show 2 temp sensors. Most LifePO4 batteries charge profile don't want/require temp adjustment....may not need them.

8 guage wires going to DC-DC charger are not protected....only 200A fuse (single?) from batteries. Likely need Pos buss bar and MRBF fuses for each branch to protect the wiring.

8 guage wires going to 12V DC fuse Box are not protected.....only 200A fuse...

Battery fuse and main Inverter fuse should be good quality i.e. MRBF or Class-T. need these to clearly disconnect when there is a problem.

120V AC panel shows 200A main breaker....wow!! prob needs to be 30A or smaller for 3000W inverter.

Wires between battery and inverter likely need to be 4/0 as others mentioned....and lug sizes need to match studs.

I'm sure you would want to add a battery monitor. This would require the shunt to be inline with the neg buss bar. Sure would
help keep track of the battery health. Many use Victron BVM712.

You don't have any switching/disconnects so it is going to be a mess/danger working on all the "live" circuits. At a min, I would have a main battery disconnect switch. For each disconnect added, must
verify what problems that creates on any power sources....i.e. may blow charge controllers, alternator diodes...
 

Rafrojack

New member
Would a different solar controller work with the EPEVER MPPT I'm planning on using? The tracer is fully compatible out of the box. You mentioned the Victron Smart Solar, is that compatible with my MPPT or should I just make my whole system Victron or Renogy to help with ease of compatibility?

No temp sensors needed got it.

I wouldn't need to watch the alt charging with my b2b because the DC2DC charge controller automatically manages that all right?

Is Lifeblue what you're using? Better to just use one battery instead of Battle Born's?

By battery meter you mean a battery management type system right? Got it.

I don't anticipate a large load that I need 3k inverter but I'd like to allow for room to grow later on. Same reason I'm opting for a 40amp MPPT.

No CB but an actual cutoff switch between panels right?

Less panels & higher watts as in just "larger panels? I've seen panels with higher watts but don't know how well they actual produce their claimed 3#. Also, these panels are usually larger anyways & for the surface area to power produced don't do as well as these 12v 100w panels I believe. I'm open to ideas! Thanks!

I would go with a better solar controller. I had the tracer and while nice I wish I got the Victron SmartSolar at first.

If you stick with the tracer you don't need the temp sensor.the mt50 is a display not a controller.

I honestly don't think the b2b is needed.... assuming while alt charging you don't mind watching the charge, never plan on topping house batteries, and don't alt charge while using a heavily loaded inverter. Regardless, put fuses on both sides of the alt charging system close to the batteries for each side.

Have you looked at LifeBlue? They have a 300ah heated LFP battery. they also have a BT app that shows total cycles, temp, current, and faults.

You want a shunt based battery meter. I'm using a bmv712... spendy but I like it.

Use GFCI outlets

What are your loads that demand a 3k inverter?

Have you considered less panels at higher watts?

You want a CB between your panels and controller and between controller and batt. Look at the.Blue Seas and Bussman ones.
 

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