Need a photo of 2005 exhaust tip

I can't find a photo of the rear of the exhaust on a 2005 3500. My lemon failed an inspection and the rough French translation is that the exhaust must pass beyond the open cabin area. Not sure exactly what this means but I am guessing the exhaust tip has too much burnt off and does not meet regulations.

A photo of the rear exhaust pipes (on the car) would help me compare the two.

Thanks. :thumbup:
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” SHC U.S. T1N
There are two styles.
One style (as on my 140”) terminates forward of the rear axle, bending 45 degrees from behind the muffler and blowing out towards the curb, inches aft of the sliding door “C” pillar. The other style continues straight aft from the muffler and blows straight out below the rear bumper. In both cases I believe it’s still under the van, so may get written up by a grumpy inspector?

I’ll snap a shot of mine in the morning and add it to this thread.

-dave
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Can you just add a chrome or stainless 'finisher' from a local parts store or the likes of Fleabay?

That's what my side exit has to extend it past the bodywork!

Keith.
 
Thanks. Though slightly roached, yours is several inches longer. Hard to believe mine was considered non-regulation though...wonder if the guy meant something else.

Can a tip be welded on or do I need to weld a new stretch of exhaust pipe?

:cheers:
 

BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
You might be best off cutting a few inches back and clamping on a new tip and hanger. I’d say you’re missing at least 12”-16” of pipe there
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” SHC U.S. T1N
Here’s my “short” exhaust. Van was built as a cargo. My finger marks the rear edge of the sliding door frame.

I’d say there’s no need to weld on an extension, in fact I’d avoid heating the stainless tubing.
Just cut it back to sound metal and sleeve on the extended tailpipe with clamps. It will probably outlive the van...

-dave

Added: if your van is registered as a “truck” you may be exempt from the exhaust exit requirement?
 

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autostaretx

Erratic Member
My 118" wheelbase passenger wagon is similar to Nautamaran's, but has a kink along the way to avoid the spare tire lift handle.

TailPipe.jpg

The parts catalog shows a few variations (including a side-dump behind the sliding door)

TailPipeNumbers.png

--dick
 
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Nautamaran

2004 140” SHC U.S. T1N
If you can match the *inside* diameter of the exhaust, then you can slit a short length of new pipe and make an internal sleeve to fit and splice the new piece on. Then secure with pop-rivets, screws, tack welds, etc. Insert 2x diameter on each side of the splice.

-dave
 
To understrand....I fashion a short section sleeve, or internal coupling if you will, and connect it to existing exhaust pipe, then add the tip on the end of that sleeve?
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” SHC U.S. T1N
Exactly. That will save you fashioning a new hanger (for now).
You may need to trim back the formed lip on the top half...

-dave
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
We should form a betting pool on how long/far (months/miles) that pipe will hang in there.

Critical question: are those steel or aluminum Pop Rivets?

--dick (guessing an upper limit of 20,000 miles ... but could see 1,000 too)
p.s. i'd avoid muffler tape ... the inspector would suspect a hidden hole
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
We should form a betting pool on how long/far (months/miles) that pipe will hang in there.

Critical question: are those steel or aluminum Pop Rivets?

--dick (guessing an upper limit of 20,000 miles ... but could see 1,000 too)
p.s. i'd avoid muffler tape ... the inspector would suspect a hidden hole
:idunno:

Steel or aluminum rivets will outlast the original rusted pipe.

My guess is that the next failure will be the rusted remnants breaking loose from the hanger assembly. That will cause the pipe to drop down and stress things further back.

I would add some loops of monel or ss wire as backup. I carry braided ss picture wire for similar on the road repairs.

T1NTailPipeWire.jpg

:cheers: vic
 
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Nautamaran

2004 140” SHC U.S. T1N
I like Vic’s safety wire suggestion.
He gets bonus points for not taking the wire to the body/frame, just reinforcing the free end of the hanger. :thumbup:

-dave
 
My rivets are aluminum...doubtful they all would pop off simultaneously so I will just have to periodically check. All they get is vibration so what would make them break?

Wiring the hanger sounds like a good ounce of prevention. I just worry that an inspector might determine that the tubing is relying on the wiring for support. The hanger is indeed a bit flakey but isn't it considerably thicker than the tubing? I got some POR15...would that be a good idea for the hanger?
The tape is something to consider also but again, inspector.

I tried the clamp but realized it wouldn't clamp down because of the hanger.
 
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