This will be a compilation of posts/threads to give members an idea of some of the engine replacement options available.
I'll begin with posts from the thread that Dennis Lindenengineering started.
Sprinter Wallet Flush --Texas [Firm] part 2
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79037
Thanks goes to Dennis and all contributors.
Don't underestimate the overall costs associated with labor and additional sundry parts. Good shops don't have cheap labor rates. Additional MB parts can be pricey. Some unexpected costs are likely when properly installing a replacement engine.
This thread is closed to limit questions here.
My plan is to add info from other threads as I stumble upon it. I will gladly add posts/information provided by PM. Please include the post number link to the thread or separate full comments in text.
The single post number link is accessed by clicking the number in the upper right hand corner. Then simply copy and paste the Sprinter-source single post link to your PM. (An additional step would be to click on the thread title in the upper right corner of the single post. Clicking that returns you to the full thread at the single post number. Copying that link will take people back to entire thread vs the stand alone single number post.)
vic
Added:
Cylinder head cracks can happen from overheating.
I'll begin with posts from the thread that Dennis Lindenengineering started.
Sprinter Wallet Flush --Texas [Firm] part 2
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79037
Thanks goes to Dennis and all contributors.

The owner has hired us to conduct a post mortem on this engine from Sprinter Depot.
It seems like its going to be attorney time!
Dennis
Lets clear somethings up and STOP trying to criticise my business model because I clearly I do it better than you! I employ people and I am clearly not an employee like you.
When I give a quote to a customer for an engine in a T1N sprinter van, the BEST option is the MB rebuild.
Its great value for money for what you get @ $9540 .
Install is 15 hours which includes radiator cleaning & sundry installs at cost plus on parts like hoses etc.
Warranty is one year or 36,000 miles
Not surprisingly some owners budgets won't go that far!
The next step down is Jasper long block rebuild .
A Jasper long block rebuild option is $7428.
Again the same RnR labor charge of 15 hours but there is an additional 6 hours of labor to dress the engine by transferring existing ancillary parts to the new unit.
On this option there can be an additional $1750 for exchange MB injectors
The next step down is our own in house rebuilds which come out to about $6500 fully built plus labor turn key, but turbo is extra! This final pricing is dependent upon budgets which are tailored to a customer's requirements.
We warrant these engines for one year with unlimited mileage in that period. The end budget cost has to be conducive to the success of the rebuild or I won't build it .
Judging by the number we have built over ten years or so , it seems to be a good formula.
The last option is a take out used engine.
If I supply the unit, its between $4000 to $4500 per unit plus install.
Again the FIE is tested and the engine cleared for future use.
Warranty is limited to 90 days and it only covers major component failures.
In short I have to make a profit or I don't do it.
Dennis
Vic comment:... & sundry installs at cost plus on parts like hoses etc. ...
Don't underestimate the overall costs associated with labor and additional sundry parts. Good shops don't have cheap labor rates. Additional MB parts can be pricey. Some unexpected costs are likely when properly installing a replacement engine.
Does the MB reman come with the turbo?
Given the approximate $3k price spread, it doesn't seem to make much sense to choose anything other than the MB reman.... or am I missing something?
Yes!
The only thing short is the alternator, accessory belt and the PAS pump. If you can afford it, its the very best option and its priced right!
[NCV3 Engine Comment]
I might add that on the 906 [NCV3 models] Sprinter, the re-man engine range at about $9000 I 4 & $13,000 V6 respectively, (Ex MB USA works) and really its the ONLY way to go for a reliable re-power when you need a replacement .
Even Jasper doesn't do one of those.
As a footnote this year and the hot weather has (by coincidence) caused an abnormal amount of wrecked engine tow ins on T1N's.
We sold four MB re-man installs & two Jasper long block units to date .
I have offered two owners a used take out as a budget option, but being financially challenged those two are on sky hooks. The rest are in some form or another of "in house" rebuild programs. Two guys have towed theirs home for DIY attention.
As a comparison let's look at a Landrover LR4 and its Ford based AJ series engine.
A replacement 5 litre gasoline engine is a few dollars short of $16,000.
It has a $600 core which must be paid up front before delivery.
Then it attracts a 17,5 hours install labor charge !
I am about to do one of these next week.
I suppose the light of end costs in the dark tunnel has to be the post 2010 1750 cc Prius engine/powerpack.
Prone somewhat to head gasket failure from overheating & neglect the coolant finds it way on top of the piston. The super powerful electric starter motor has no truck for hydro locked engines so it rakes the pistons and rods, bending or breaking at least one.
On that car when a check engine light comes on YOU STOP!
BUT nobody does!
Everything is sensors and electric water pumps.
The most cost expedient repair is replace the the whole power pack from a later donor collision car !
Turn key out the door is $4500 plus tax engine & transaxle etc including labor all day, every day.
And it gets 3 months unlimited mileage warranty.
What can you say? They sell like hotcakes!
Its only money!
Cheers Dennis
This thread is closed to limit questions here.
My plan is to add info from other threads as I stumble upon it. I will gladly add posts/information provided by PM. Please include the post number link to the thread or separate full comments in text.
The single post number link is accessed by clicking the number in the upper right hand corner. Then simply copy and paste the Sprinter-source single post link to your PM. (An additional step would be to click on the thread title in the upper right corner of the single post. Clicking that returns you to the full thread at the single post number. Copying that link will take people back to entire thread vs the stand alone single number post.)

Added:
Cylinder head cracks can happen from overheating.
As always clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread.All these repair theories BUT!
The area is thermally and mechanically stressed.
It needs to changed.
Yes you can put something chemical to seal it in there but what happens in service if it leaks again? Then drops a significant amount of coolant into the affected cylinder, say overnight.
The next morning you come out to start it and a big clonk! You have bent a rod and maybe even worse!
Wrecked the engine.
These heads do cracks at the injector hole to valve seat anyway when heat distressed, rendering them scrap. Its the biggest cause of scrappage next to excessive warpage during overhauls . In both cases its destined for the scrap bin.
In fact on something like the later Prius with 1750 engine you have to be careful about the same problem. In the event of a head gasket failure and coolant entering the cylinder. The powerful MG1 electric motor rotates the engine to start NOT traditional starter motor. It has enough force to rotate the internal mechanical parts--any coolant in the cylinder results in a bent rod.
Better to seriously consider changing the head as a repair remedy.
Dennis
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