08’ turbo replacement


New member
My 08’ NCV3 2500 needs a new turbo, according to my mechanic. The symptoms: loss of power, and a rattling/clicking noise coming from the engine bay/turbo area. Said to be an actuator or wastegate solenoid of some sort. My mechanic suggests replacing the entire turbo, which is fine but, they say it’s a 4K$ turbo. After asking around for some other opinions I’ve found a suitable turbo for much less. My questions are these: what is the deal with that particular turbo being so expensive, and who can I trust to install a turbo and still hold the warranty that comes with that turbo? I’m in the Seattle area so anyone who’s got some local info would be greatly appreciated because my current mechanic seems to believe that expensive option is the only option. I’ve done a little searching and found some suggesting that there may be holes in the intercooler piping. I haven’t found any. I’m also curious about what gaskets or hoses may need to be replaced while doing this service. If I go about the job myself I want to know I’ve got all possible bases covered. Thanks to anyone in advance for providing information.

Rob S

2008 Navion J on 2007 V6
If you search for replace turbo on this forum, you will find it is rarely the turbo itself, and only sometimes the actuator.

Not an easy DIY job if indeed it is required.

I would first take it to another Sprinter Specialist for some intensive diagnosis, and a second opinion.


2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
You didn't state your mileage but as above, mechanical failures of the turbo itself aren't very common. Do you know exactly how they determined that the turbo itself is bad? It's not impossible of course but I'd agree that you should get a confirming diagnosis before throwing parts at it.


Mine was 2200 installed for a rebuilt from MB.
I’ve put 125k on it so far.
First gave up at 205k
You know your turbo is bad when the wheel is sideways


Well-known member
Sounds to me as though the impeller wheel failed which IS quite a frequent failure point at or around 175,000 mile plus.
Originally made from an extrusion cast manufacturing process, the part has a failure prone stress raiser within its structure and its splits in two parts before disintegrating.

About 18 months to two years ago now, a new machined from a solid billet impeller was introduced on production, which as not shown to demonstrate the same failure propensity.

What I will state is that high exhaust back pressure conditions, such as a partially plugged DPF with only hasten such failures which of course need to be investigated.,


Well-known member
If the DPF, the EGR. the MAF the pressure sensors adrift (MG/Hub) , even the pressure intake system and the wiring harness is suffering it won't work either !
Diagnoise diagnose & diagnose !
Treat the cause NOT the symptom.

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