what is max boost

[220629]

If you don't find any leaks, check very closely as they can be difficult to pinpoint, a wonky sensor or harness problem can be involved.

The turbo vane actuator moving is a good sign. That could still be involved though. There have been reports of just a small "catch" in the operation causing intermittent LHM. Unfortunately there are many things which can trigger LHM and not necessarily trigger a DTC.

vic

 

[Nautamaran]

Leaks at the hose clamps at the sensor manifold/splice on the riser hoses (battery side of radiator) were giving me an occasional no-code LHM for two years... that’s GONE since the hose replacement. The worm screw on the clamp had stripped, reducing the clamping pressure. It’s hard to inspect the lower one, but worth getting a mirror out to do so. Beware of cheap hose clamps: many have sharp edges that can slice into the soft rubber when the hose inflates under boost. The factory ones have a nicely rolled edge and so should any replacement. If you’re stuck, put a shim of tough plastic (cut a strip from a milk jug) under the cheap clamp to protect the rubber.

-dave

 

[Midwestdrifter]

An exhaust leak at the manifold or turbo flange can cause overboost codes.

You need to check the ambient and MAP sensor readings with key-on-engine-off. They should match within 0.5psi.

 

[cpumechanic3]

Leaks at the hose clamps at the sensor manifold/splice on the riser hoses (battery side of radiator) were giving me an occasional no-code LHM for two years... that’s GONE since the hose replacement. The worm screw on the clamp had stripped, reducing the clamping pressure. It’s hard to inspect the lower one, but worth getting a mirror out to do so. Beware of cheap hose clamps: many have sharp edges that can slice into the soft rubber when the hose inflates under boost. The factory ones have a nicely rolled edge and so should any replacement. If you’re stuck, put a shim of tough plastic (cut a strip from a milk jug) under the cheap clamp to protect the rubber.

-dave

The new hose on the battery side of the intercooler was installed as one piece last year, I will follow your advice and remove and inspect... heck.. I may just buy a second new one, and install since those parts are not very expensive and having a backup is always useful.

Thanks to all for the helpful feedback.. I am hoping that the issue goes away, or remains intermittent enough to travel. Will update this thread.

Sure are a lot of potential causes of LHM.. but hey.. I am learning, and it is fun.

CPU

 

[cpumechanic3]

An exhaust leak at the manifold or turbo flange can cause overboost codes.

You need to check the ambient and MAP sensor readings with key-on-engine-off. They should match within 0.5psi.

Just an update.. Spent 1/2 hour in the cold with my new Autel AP200 and got lots of codes.

When I go to live data I see that 3 pressure sensors all agree within 10 Millibars. Autel help screen says that is what is required (see attached.)

1.0 Atmospheric pressure =993 mB
2.0 Intake pressure = 993mB
3.0 Boost pressure = 991mB

All three readings are with ignition on, engine off.

I then went ahead and did an autoscan and got lots of codes.

On my Instrument Cluster unit I see five (5) Error Codes
B1040-000 CAN communication to the Engine control unit is faulty
B1041-000 CAN communication with the brake system module is faulty
B1042-000 CAN communication to control module electronic transmission control is faulty
B1470- Fuel level sensor has short to ground
B1010 -SRS malfunction indicator lamp is faulty

See image of scan for that module attached. Funny thing is,, my fuel gauge works just fine, and when I turn on ignition , the SRS lamp comes on, the goes off as expected.

I also get some codes from the transmission module (don't recall exactly which one).

They are
P1876 No or incorrect CAN message from ABS
P1817-002 Reversing light has short circuit to positive or open circuit.

The 1817-002 is valid, as I just checked and confirmed that the back up lamps are not coming on when I shift into reverse.

So.. now that I have all theses codes, can anyone suggest on how best to address the CAN related codes from the instrument cluster.

My current problem is when I search for P1040 I get many threads, but don't see that code in the thread. I tried searching with quotes "P1040" but that also did not improve my search results.

I have no check engine lamp , and with the exception of random LHM and the overboost code, rig is running fine.

I have also checked the cable exiting the transmission for external visible leaks or evidence of fluid and it looks perfect and dry.. and was replaced a couple of years ago as a proactive measure to prevent the leak that wicks up the wire and damages the ECU.

Last question is when I try to scan the Transmission I get "unknown version of control module" but when I scan the item above transmission (electronic transmission control) it scans that just fine.

Any ideas why the Autel AP200 wont scan my Transmission module?

Thanks in advance to all the experts

CPU

 

[marklg]

Just an update.. Spent 1/2 hour in the cold with my new Autel AP200 and got lots of codes.

I then went ahead and did an autoscan and got lots of codes.

Last question is when I try to scan the Transmission I get "unknown version of control module" but when I scan the item above transmission (electronic transmission control) it scans that just fine.

Any ideas why the Autel AP200 wont scan my Transmission module?

Thanks in advance to all the experts

CPU

Which vehicle did you pick? I found the AP200 scans different modules when you choose the 901 line or the YD line for my 2006. I think I can scan all the modules if I choose both and scan what is available on each. You may not actually have all the modules they list. I think the issue is that Autel does not have a selection that exactly matches the set of modules installed in a Dodge or Freightliner badged Sprinter. So, I believe it thinks modules should be there that don't exist or are a different version it can't talk to.

If you had the T21 recall, there will be stored CAN communication errors in several modules. Whey they reprogram the engine control module, it stops responding and the other modules record communication faults. The dealer is only instructed to clear them from the engine control module. Since you have recorded your faults, try clearing them all and see if they come back.

Regards,

Mark

 

[cpumechanic3]

Hi Mark

I tried to follow your suggestion on what vehicle to pick from the other thread
Per your post I copied and pasted below.
It tries to read VIN and fails after I select Manual, so I just wait, then selected
Sprinter and YD option.

=============================================
Get Benz_Sprinter and select it:

Autel_4.png

Choose Manual Selection:

Autel_5.png

Choose Sprinter:

Autel_6.png

Both 901.6.... and YD.... work but YD... works with more modules:

===========================================

If I then try to select the transmission module directly, it gives me the error.
If I select the "electronic transmission option just above transmssion" it reads.

Since I have had this vehicle for several years, and never had any issues, except the random LHM stuff.. I am likely going to try your suggestion of just deleting the stored codes and then driving the rig to see which ones re-appear.

I did notice that my backup camera was getting confused and staying on after I shift from reverse to drive and now that the Autel told me to check my backup lights, I find that both sides are blown... so those will get replaced.

Did you ever get rid of your LHM issue?

Thanks again for the fast reply.. will keep updating this thread as I slowly trouble shoot my LHM issue.

CPU

 

[marklg]

Hi Mark

I tried to follow your suggestion on what vehicle to pick from the other thread
Per your post I copied and pasted below.
It tries to read VIN and fails after I select Manual, so I just wait, then selected
Sprinter and YD option.

=============================================
Get Benz_Sprinter and select it:

Autel_4.png

Choose Manual Selection:

Autel_5.png

Choose Sprinter:

Autel_6.png

Both 901.6.... and YD.... work but YD... works with more modules:

===========================================

If I then try to select the transmission module directly, it gives me the error.
If I select the "electronic transmission option just above transmssion" it reads.

Since I have had this vehicle for several years, and never had any issues, except the random LHM stuff.. I am likely going to try your suggestion of just deleting the stored codes and then driving the rig to see which ones re-appear.

I did notice that my backup camera was getting confused and staying on after I shift from reverse to drive and now that the Autel told me to check my backup lights, I find that both sides are blown... so those will get replaced.

Did you ever get rid of your LHM issue?

Thanks again for the fast reply.. will keep updating this thread as I slowly trouble shoot my LHM issue.

CPU

Can't hurt to try 901 also.

My LHM happens every 1000 miles or so. Very hard to reproduce. I have one more hose to replace, but happening so rarely, it is hard to know it is fixed.

Regards,

Mark

 

[cpumechanic3]

Ok so based on reading your prior threads, you have a 2006 Dodge like I do, and are able to read BOTH of the transmission options under YD, while it appears that I am NOT able to do that with my 2006 Dodge.

I'lll try some other options as you suggest.

You also asked about the T21 recall.. Called Dodge 800 number who referred me to local dealer who said they could do it. When I tried to get them to explain agree to cover a worst case scenario (ECU no longer working), or other .. they said.. Well.. you may go home with a check engine light on after we do the recall. I said that's not a good outcome, they agreed and said "doing the recall is completely up to you" unquote.. and if you have issues, you can call the dodge 800 number.

They also could not tell me how many of these recalls they had successfully completed.

So.. I wasn't impressed, and the T21 recall for my rig in on hold.

Thanks for your fast feedback.

CPU

 

[Nautamaran]

Since none of your canbus errors are current, I too would simply make a note and clear them. These can be set by a low voltage event, but engine wouldn’t start if the canbus wasn’t functioning...
I also subscribe to MWD’s boost overshoot theory, so I would keep looking for a leak in the induction hoses and joints. A small leak wouldn’t necessarily show up as a “abnormal” MAF value, and the turbo setting can compensate to a point, though the hunting behaviour I experienced demonstrated how broadly the ECM can search for a turbo/egr setting before it sets a code?
It’s possible you’ve got a wiring fault that is messing up the turbo actuator command, but that’s a pulse-width signal and pretty robust. Still, like the EGR command the ECM sets the pwm value and assumes it is being obeyed, watching for feedback in the MAF and MAP sensor values. There’s no direct position signal back to the ECM. If the turbo overshoots so would the MAP and the ecm would notice and stop using the turbo.

-dave

Added: both my AP200 and MD802 list many extra modules. I assume the “transmission” option is for the semi-automatic Sprintshift controller, while the “electronic transmission” option targets the NAG1 module. (similar to ABS appearing alongside ESP, you’ll have one or the other, not both)

 

[cpumechanic3]

Ok just a quick update, I took the advice here, and deleted all of the odd codes, and then went out on some local errands, multiple starts and stops, some freeway driving up and down hills, and no more LHM issues. Not at all sure if the one small lower passenger side hose I replaced that connects to the intercooler, or just installing and re-installing the Dorman Turbo Resonator and re-tightening things had any impact but for now.. I am happy with no more LHM symptoms after burning through nearly 1/4 tank of fuel.


The bad news is I experienced a check engine lamp after the first short trip.
That is a first in the 25k miles I have driven.
Ap200 says they are

2032-02 R25 component Oxygen sensor is implausable
2195-1 O2 sensor heater short circuit to positive
2026-1 Signal from component R25 Oxygen Sensor is faulty, the signal voltage is too high.

I assume this means that this oxygen sensor needs replacement, and assume that clearing codes will not make this one go away and stay away.

None of the other odd codes Canbus related re-occurred so I am happy that the odd codes I found on initial read were just ghost codes stored from many moons ago that were not valid or real.

I did replace/repair one backup lamp socket, and both backup lamp bulbs, so the code for that issue was valid.

Finally I am finding the communication to the electronic transmission control module to be "hit or miss" I sometimes works under the YD vehicle category, and then it will stop connecting, If I switch to the 906 option and US, then select ODB2 as pinout, that selection (at least for my 2006) appears to work the best for electronic transmission temp.

I have a deep pan and now have some data that the deep pan T/C probe is nearly 50-55F cooler when compared to the Autel Electronic Transmission live temps. I thought the difference would be much smaller (like 20F) but it is 50F hotter going down freeway at 65 on a 50 degree day.

So.. looks like I will be ordering and installing an 02 sensor soon, unless someone tells me otherwise, thanks again for all the excellent feedback and advice here.

Cpu

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Check the wiring harness first. I would suspect harness damage before a sensor for a short to positive.

Note that the sensor is a wideband type, so a generic narrowband type won't work.

 

[cpumechanic3]

Check the wiring harness first. I would suspect harness damage before a sensor for a short to positive.

Note that the sensor is a wideband type, so a generic narrowband type won't work.

Hello

I searched the forum and my Sprinter Factory service manual for the pinout of the Oxygen sensor and the pins it connects to on the ECU. I see that they should all be 10 ohms or less for continuity. I guess I can also check each pin for short to ground or short to 12 V.

=================================
2195-1 O2 sensor heater short circuit to positive
=================================

I assume this is the code you are referring to as unusual.

I have a good meter, just curious how folks test for OHMS between a harness pin in the engine bay and the large connector to the ECU (I assume under the drivers seat?).

Do you just take some 14 gauge wire and solder some alligator clips to a long (10 foot) piece to reach from the engine bay to the ECU?

Sorry for this display of my ignorance.

I re-read the factory service manual troubleshooting guide, and it looks pretty good, stating that the wires from the O2 sensor to the ECU are not spliced and are continuous and so each wire should be independent of the other wires, (when ECU plug is disconnected).. and there should be no continuity between any wire and ground.

I will just follow the FSM investigation path, and see where that leads.

Thanks in advance again for the expert help here

CPu

 

[Midwestdrifter]

The ECM/ECU is right above the drivers feet under the dash. Its held in with a spring clip.

 

[cpumechanic3]

Hello

I am attempting to check the wiring harness as suggested, I have disconnected the negative battery cable, pulled the ECM down, and removed the large and small connectors.

I have also disconnected the O2 sensor connector to check the harness.

I am following instructions from a different Thread
====================================
The diagnostic steps on page 120 (and following) are:
(a) check the wiring and connectors
(b) unplug the O2 sensor and verify that 12v is appearing on pin 4 of the cable harness
(c) check resistances ("cavity" is "connector pin"):
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the O2 Sensor harness connector.
Disconnect the ECM harness connectors.
Perform the following resistance measurements from the O2 harness connector to the
ECM harness connector.
O2 Sensor Cavity 1 to ECM Cavity C1-15.
O2 Sensor Cavity 2 to ECM Cavity C1-40.
O2 Sensor Cavity 3 to ECM Cavity C1-72.
O2 Sensor Cavity 5 to ECM Cavity C1-62.
O2 Sensor Cavity 6 to ECM Cavity C1-39.
Is the resistance below 10.0 ohms for each measurement?
========================================

I am getting open circuit on any/all of the O2 Sensor X to ECM Cavity Y measurements
I don't see any evidence of any rodent damage on the engine wiring harness from above or below.

Attached is an image of my paper clip connector inserted into (what I believe is ) O2 Sensor cavity 6. See attached.

This is supposed to connect to ECM Cavity C1-39.

Is C1 the Largest ECM connector, or is C1 the smaller connector on the back of the ECM?

Can anyone confirm that my Oxygen Sensor Diagram is connect, and I am connected to Pin 6 based on the image?

I have tested multiple pins on that connector, and can not get any resistance measurements, and I cannot believe that every single wire is open.

Sorry for yet another display of my ignorance here.

Thanks for any help anyone can provide.

CP

 

[cpumechanic3]

Ok... I had a friend take a look at my wiring diagrams, and he immediately pointed out that the pinout I was using for the O2 sensor was upside down, and with respect to the "smile" on the connector the actual connector has the " locking clip" on the bottom of the connector if the smile (curved portion of the clip ) is on the left)

See image..

The FSM has an image showing the smile on the left, and the clip on the top.

So.. my image below is wire connected to Pin 5, not Pin 6. And if you pull up the image in the connector pinouts section, the actutal image does not match the image in the FSM.

I believe that the FSM image for pinouts is one assuming you have the connector disconnected and are looking at the connector side, not the wire side. (But I may have that wrong.)

In any event.. I did get less than 0.5 ohms on Pin 6 to ECM 1-39.. so I can proceed with my diagnosis.

Sheesh.

 

[turtletail]

Upon acceleration my 2004 with mechanical boost gauge will spike up to around 22 psi briefly, and then immediately settle back to the 19 psi mentioned, or typically even lower. When in the correct gear, even when climbing grades the boost pressure settles back.

The mechanical boost gauge reading is not affected by altitude like the MAP reading is.

vic

Where did you plumb you mechanical gauge to pick up the boost preasure?