Rear Door Bumper Replacement

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
One of my rear door magnetic door bumpers rusted, causing the bumper to split and fall apart.



So I ordered a replacement. 05104370AA NOTE that the part bag does NOT come with the underlying gasket nor screws.



You would think that the two screws (3 mm Allens) would come right out. But not so. The splitting magnets put a torque on the screws such that they will not easily turn - threatening to strip out the Allen wrenches. So I used a hacksaw blade to cut the plastic. I used the new bumper to figure out where to cut.



But here is the tricky part. As with other mounts on the Sprinter (think strike latch on the sliding door), the mounting plate is located inside the door's casing - but free floating. If you take out both screws at the same time, the plate will fall into the casing never to be found again. Two pictures above shows one of the screws removed and you can see the mounting plate inside the door casing.

Mount one side of the new bumper before taking out the second screw.



Then remove the 2nd screw and finish mounting the new bumper.

 
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Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Thanks for this. Very timely as I prep for some paint on my rear doors...

It appears you had to mangle the old mount to get clearance for the new part to bolt on...
would threading just the upper bolt back in prior to removing the lower bolt have been an option?

A bit of body sealant or even a drop of crazy glue down into the gap to stabilize a backing plate can be really helpful during this sort of blind re-assembly... you still want to always have a bolt (or two) holding the plate up, but getting the second bolt’s holes aligned is made a lot easier if the plate is stuck on and isn’t freely swinging around...

Assembling with a bit of grease on the exposed threads will help keep moisture out of the door.

-dave
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
It appears you had to mangle the old mount to get clearance for the new part to bolt on...
would threading just the upper bolt back in prior to removing the lower bolt have been an option?
Clearance was not the problem. Rather, I had to cut out the magnet part to relieve the tension on the screws. The rust expansion was bending the screws such that I did not trust the Allen wrenches to survive.
 

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