Baby Shamu - 170 4x4

[VeloVan]

Very nice. Can you tell us about your inset cabinet hinges- how thick are the cabinet face frames? Did you use a jig or just a forstner bit to mount the door side?

Here’s a tip you won’t see in the Blum hinge catalog on how to do an inset door and have it be zero-protrusion ( door edge clears the cabinet opening and drawer guides)...

Reverse the hinge = drill the hinge cup into the side panel, and put the mounting plate onto the door - works with a standard Blum 110 hinge and a 0mm plate

 

[gltrimble]

LITHIUM BATTERY UPGRADE

I recently replaced my four AGM house batteries with lithium. I had the opportunity to test the new batteries over the last few weeks on two camping trips to the local mountains.

My original AGM batteries are three years old but still have 95%+ of their original capacity. They are Fullriver 224 amp 6 volt batteries which are used by a number of the larger van conversion shops. They are a high quality but expensive battery. I went with the original AGM batteries at the time primary due to the cost of lithium and the cold weather limitations.

The biggest advantage of the lithium batteries over the AGMs in my opinion is usable capacity. I rarely could get more than 30% capacity from my AGMs before the reduced voltage caused larger devices to complain. This included the microwave, coffee maker, and water heater.

In the last few years lithium battery costs have dropped. I purchased four Lion 105 amp/12 Volt batteries from Costco during a limited sale. Each battery was $700 delivered. I had the option of installing these new batteries in my rear cargo compartments which I sized specifically to hold up to 8 GC2 sized batteries. However, I did not want to sacrifice all that valuable cargo storage for the four batteries. Instead I elected to replace my existing under mount AGMs with the lithium.





My four AGMs were mounted in a pair of steel cages that attach just forward of the rear wheels. I use a motorcycle lift to position the batteries heavy batteries before bolting the cage in place. Because the new lithium batteries were smaller dimensionally i was able to wrap the batteries with both a battery heater and a layer of 3/4” minicell foam for insulation. I also added 1” of foam insulation under the batteries and another layer of minicell foam on top. Once installed I added a layer of Refectix around each set of batteries, partly to minimize the heat from both the roadway and the exhaust.

The 120 volt battery heaters are rated for 80 watts but testing showed they put out about 60-65 watts. To control the battery heaters I installed a pair of Inkbird temperature controllers to turn on the battery heaters at a set temperature. The Inkbirds are DC powered. I have the two Inkbirds connected to a dual DC/AC relay to activate the heating pads.




I also installed two Victron Battery Sense bluetooth temperature monitors. These talk to the Victron MPPT, if temps drop below 41F then MPPT shuts down. I can also monitor the battery temps from my phone.


For most of my camping adventures the battery heaters will not be needed. For those few times the batteries are exposed to sub freezing weather I will energize my freeze protection circuit to use the heating pads.

My initial camping adventures have been successful with the lithium batteries. Under a 1200 watt load the batteries maintain 13+ volts. Under a 2000 watt load the batteries maintain 12.5+ volts. Another bonus is the weight. The new batteries weigh 23 lbs each compared to 68 lbs for one AGM.

I have reprogrammed both my Victron MPPT and Balmar voltage regulator (auxiliary alternator) for the lithium batteries. I changed the default lithium settings on the Balmar to more closely match those on the Victron. I also added the optional Balmar battery temperature probe so the alternator charging can be shut down for high battery temperature.

The new lithium batteries are now taking full advantage of both my 600 watts of solar and my 280 amp Nations alternator. The ability of the lithium batteries to take a large charging current is very apparent. The solar has repeatedly hit almost 500 watts peak. The auxiliary alternator will easily push over 100 amps even when the SOC exceeds 95%.

 

[downunder]

Very nice job on your screens!
Q. Did you buy exactly the same screen for the rear door area as what you purchased for the slider door?
I'd like to do the same. Amazon doesn't ship this item to Australia so i'll look for a US forwarder I expect?
Love your build and input too!

 

[gltrimble]

Very nice job on your screens!
Q. Did you buy exactly the same screen for the rear door area as what you purchased for the slider door?
I'd like to do the same. Amazon doesn't ship this item to Australia so i'll look for a US forwarder I expect?
Love your build and input too!

Yes, I used the same door screen for both doors. The slider is exactly 80” tall while the rear door is a few inches shorter. I recommend cutting the screen with some added slack in the middle. Can’t fix a screen that is too short but you can adjust the screen position on the Velcro slightly for the near perfect fit.



MAGZO Magnetic Screen Door 72 x 80, Fiberglass French Door Mesh Curtain with Heavy Duty Fits Door Size up to 72"x80" Max-Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YTBXZ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_JU45EbWVXZ00C

 

[RVBarry]

The Isotemp electric heating element is capable of reaching 165F. A mixing valve limits the discharge water to 140F.

Hi, are you referring to your Ambassador shower mixer, or another? Built into the heater?

Thanks, I'm really enjoying your posts!

Edit: I found it's built-in:

Indel Webasto: SPA

Indel Webasto SPA water boilers stand for high marine quality standards and optimized cost/quality ratio! They capture 15 - 40 liters of water.

www.indelwebastomarine.com

.

 

[erik.wahlstrom]

I'm very curious how using a trim router with a follower bering worked for cutting the window panels. I'm equipped to do the same thing but I'd love to hear how it went for you? Would you do the same thing again?

WINDOWS
I cut the openings in the wall panels using a small router equipped with a follower bearing. The wall panel was secured to the trim ring prior to installing the fabric.

The upholstered wall panels fit snugly against the trim rings. No additional screws were needed to hold the wall panels to the trim rings.

 

[gltrimble]

I'm very curious how using a trim router with a follower bering worked for cutting the window panels. I'm equipped to do the same thing but I'd love to hear how it went for you? Would you do the same thing again?

Using a flush cut 1/4” Or 3/8” diameter cutter with a similar sized end bearing makes for a perfect alignment of the wall panel and window opening. I started by positioning the wall panel in the appropriate position, in this case it rested on the lower L-Track. I screwed a couple drywall screws into the panel and the wood trim behind the panel to hold everything in place. I then drilled a hole big enough for the router bit to fit. The router bit depth is set so the bearing rides on the inner aluminum trim of the window, just deep enough so the blade does not make contact with the window. Then just gently run the router around the window trim inside perimeter. Yes, I would do it again.

 

[erik.wahlstrom]

Thanks. This is pretty much what my plan was. In another comment someone suggested scribing it from the outside but the router method seems more likely to be successful

 

[mtblove4ever]

This is an impressive build! I am just wondering - how did you mount the T-tracks on the ceiling going from front to aft? Did you have a steel bracer like the ones that Adventure Wagon sells with their interior kits?

 

[gltrimble]

This is an impressive build! I am just wondering - how did you mount the T-tracks on the ceiling going from front to aft? Did you have a steel bracer like the ones that Adventure Wagon sells with their interior kits?

I assume you are referring to the ceiling mounted L-Track. Each one is attached to the 3 or 4 van ceiling cross ribs using 5/16” Rivnuts. Plenty strong to hold a few hundred pounds with little or no deflection. No reinforcement necessary.

 

[bchpyr]

Hi George, really like how you thought out and planned your build. Thanks so much for all the photos and explanations. I have two questions:

For the insulation around your lithium batteries isn't it good to allow waste heat to escape during lithium battery use and charging. Is there a trade off with insulating for the cold and trapping heat when batteries get hot?

Do you have a picture of how your bed panels are stored over your cargo boxes? Your cargo area is really nice!

 

[Midwestdrifter]

LFP batteries produce little heat with charge/discharge currents under 0.5C. However the BMS does dissipate heat, and depending on the design that can be 20-50W at 1C. At typical low current applications this is a non issue, below 0.2C I don't expect the battery to get more than a degree or two above ambient, even with some insulation.

 

[gltrimble]

I agree that the LFP batteries produce very little heat on their own. When not driving the batteries are close to ambient temperature. Most of the battery heat appears to come from the hot asphalt and exhaust system on a hot day while driving. The passenger side batteries, exhaust side, always seem to run a few degrees hotter than the driver side when the van is moving. I recently tested them successfully on a 2500 mile trip up to Oregon which included a 42F night in Lassen and a 105F day in Ukiah. I have a Balmar temperature probe on the passenger side battery that will shut down my auxiliary alternator if the batteries get too hot. My Victron MPPT senses the driver side battery temperature and will shut down if it gets too cold, currently set to 41F. I plan to add an ignition lead kill switch that will allow me to also disable the auxiliary alternator if needed. Also with four batteries the chance that all four BMS will disconnect at exactly the same time is unlikely.

 

[gltrimble]

Do you have a picture of how your bed panels are stored over your cargo boxes? Your cargo area is really nice!

I sized the rear cargo boxes on each side to hold two bed panels vertically and still allow the compartment doors to open. I have honestly not tried this configuration yet since we leave the bed in place full time. Each bed panel is approximately 1.5” thick, 19” wide, and 62” long. The cargo compartment has just over 3” of non-hinged top to accommodate each pair of bed panels. The wall mounted L-Track is used to retain/strap the bed panels in place. I will try to get a picture soon.

 

[bchpyr]

Thanks guys for the great explanations, ideas, and sharing your experiences! Hopefully when I get through my build I can help pass on the wisdom gained as you are doing here. Awesome to have folks like you around!

 

[bchpyr]

In the picture below the two wires from the ambient temperature sensor, located behind the front grill, are connected to one pair of the outer terminals of the DPDT switch. The two wires from the ECU that previously were connected to the ambient temperature sensor are connected to the center pair of terminals on the switch. Between the remaining pair of terminals is a resistor.

Your choice of resistor will determine what temperature the ECU will see. The various Espar D5 run times associated with the outside temperature are documented in the owner’s manual. In the pictures I initially attached a 22k ohm resistor. This should represent 5F on the dash but as you can see it occasionally reads 4F. This was a problem because the temperature cutoff for a 40 minute versus 50 minute D5 run time is 5F. I wanted it to cycle 40 minutes and not 50 minutes so I changed the resistor to 15k ohms which represents 18F.

I recommend you only utilize this switch to fool the ECU while the van is stationary with the keys removed from the ignition. Switching it while the ECU is “awake” could cause a momentary interruption which the ECU might interpret as a fault. Not a big deal if you have an Autel to clear the fault.

I am using this switch, the factory D5, and an Isotemp Spa marine heater as another option to heat my water.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

In the picture below the two wires from the ambient temperature sensor, located behind the front grill, are connected to one pair of the outer terminals of the DPDT switch. The two wires from the ECU that previously were connected to the ambient temperature sensor are connected to the center pair of terminals on the switch. Between the remaining pair of terminals is a resistor.

Your choice of resistor will determine what temperature the ECU will see. The various Espar D5 run times associated with the outside temperature are documented in the owner’s manual. In the pictures I initially attached a 22k ohm resistor. This should represent 5F on the dash but as you can see it occasionally reads 4F. This was a problem because the temperature cutoff for a 40 minute versus 50 minute D5 run time is 5F. I wanted it to cycle 40 minutes and not 50 minutes so I changed the resistor to 15k ohms which represents 18F.

I recommend you only utilize this switch to fool the ECU while the van is stationary with the keys removed from the ignition. Switching it while the ECU is “awake” could cause a momentary interruption which the ECU might interpret as a fault. Not a big deal if you have an Autel to clear the fault.

I am using this switch, the factory D5, and an Isotemp Spa marine heater as another option to heat my water.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That looks like a great work around with the factory D5 to heat your Isotemp for hot water. Now that you have had a chance to use it are you satisfied with the end result going with the factory installed D5 vs a DIY installed D5 for heating water? If the 40 minute heating intervals work well it seems that factory options H88 and H12 and your slick work around are a very good setup and maybe easier to install.

 

[gltrimble]

That looks like a great work around with the factory D5 to heat your Isotemp for hot water. Now that you have had a chance to use it are you satisfied with the end result going with the factory installed D5 vs a DIY installed D5 for heating water? If the 40 minute heating intervals work well it seems that factory options H88 and H12 and your slick work around are a very good setup and maybe easier to install.

I recommend ordering the van with the H12 and H88 options if you want a hot water system. A DIY D5 is an option but it will likely cost as much or more as the Mercedes options. Engine heat provides most of my hot water needs. Electrical heat is occasionally used to “top off” the hot water. If camped/stationary for more than a day in the shade then I use the D5 to heat water. A 40 minute cycle will yield about 40F gain in hot water. I can then cycle it a second time if needed or top it off with the electric heater. The key is having multiple energy sources to give you options. I did install a simple bypass in my coolant loop which improved my heating cycle times. This is also documented in my build thread.

Having hot water has been a welcome luxury on my van. I use the indoor and outdoor shower on my van multiple times each week, following MTB rides, surfing, or hiking.

 

[bchpyr]

Nice efficient water system. Did you use the standard Shurflo 3.5 gpm 45 psi pump? Did you use an accumulator?

 

[gltrimble]

Nice efficient water system. Did you use the standard Shurflo 3.5 gpm 45 psi pump? Did you use an accumulator?

Yes, I used the standard Shurflo pump. I purchased two accumulaters but never found a need to install one. I normally turn the pump off when it is not being used.

 

[gltrimble]

MINI-BAR

In an effort to make use of every inch of space in my van I added a triangular shaped cabinet behind my two-person Transit seat. The small cabinet would serve multiple purposes. On the bottom I had mounted my 3000 watt Go Power pure sine wave inverter. This particular location for the inverter was chosen to be close to the batteries, less than 3 ft, and out of the way. I had purchased the Go Power remote panel to control the unit. Above the inverter I added a tall drawer perfectly sized for wine bottles. The top of the mini-bar would serve as a narrow shelf. Just above the drawer but below the shelf I had room to incorporate a USB and 120 volt outlets.


Similar to other cabinets in my van I wanted to keep the weight to a minimum by using frame and panel construction. The finished cabinet straddles over the inverter and is held in place by four bolts accessible by removing my sliding trash receptacle. I also spaced the inverter off the floor slightly for better air flow and in case of a water leak or spill.


The inverter has two built-in fans for cooling and the cabinet is vented at both the front and rear. I also incorporated a Blue Sea 4 way rotary switch into the top of the cabinet. The AC selector switch selects either shore power (front or rear), inverter, or off. The switch is mounted directly to the van wall and the mini-bar slides directly over the switch. The switch is accessed via a small plastic cover. Feeds to the USB and 120AC also incorporate quick disconnects should I need to remove the cabinet.



The drawer for the cabinet is made from 1/2” Baltic birch. I built the half blind dovetail drawer 6” tall on all sides and then trimmed one side down to fit the cabinet. Blum self closing drawer slides and a Southco latch were also incorporated.