Baby Shamu - 170 4x4

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4


Can you talk a little about the wiffle balls in the water tank...I presume this is to reduce sloshing? Curious as to how effective you think this is (or to know if I'm completely wrong about their purpose).

Amazing build...thanks for sharing all the intel!
If you Google “Baffle Balls” you will find examples of some larger and more pricier ways of limiting the sloshing of tank fluids. These bigger balls are used on tanker trucks and such.

I initially filled my 46 gallon water tank with off the shelf Wiffle balls. Later I found food grade balls actually made by Wiffle. The balls cost probably double but they do not seem to form the bio-slime on the balls as quickly. The food grade balls come with certification numbers on each ball which quickly wash off. The certified balls cost more than my tank.

If the tank is completely filled with the wiffle balls then they do an excellent job of limiting water sloshing when braking and accelerating. My water tank is inside the van so the water noise was very apparent. With the balls the tank is silent. The balls reduce my water tank capacity by about 2 gallons or less than 5%. The balls also do not trap any significant amount of water.




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Dongoose

Member
If you Google “Baffle Balls” you will find examples of some larger and more pricier ways of limiting the sloshing of tank fluids. These bigger balls are used on tanker trucks and such.

I initially filled my 46 gallon water tank with off the shelf Wiffle balls. Later I found food grade balls actually made by Wiffle. The balls cost probably double but they do not seem to form the bio-slime on the balls as quickly. The food grade balls come with certification numbers on each ball which quickly wash off. The certified balls cost more than my tank.

If the tank is completely filled with the wiffle balls then they do an excellent job of limiting water sloshing when braking and accelerating. My water tank is inside the van so the water noise was very apparent. With the balls the tank is silent. The balls reduce my water tank capacity by about 2 gallons or less than 5%. The balls also do not trap any significant amount of water.




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Balls aside, I like the idea of the large access port for cleaning. What hatch (brand/size/model) did you use and how did you cut the hole in the tank?


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You mention "bio-slime" forming..... Whats that from and how often are you having to clean them..? Is the bio-slime a function of the material the balls are made of and unique to the balls and no bio-slime is forming on the inside of your water tank?

I've never noticed any slime on the interior of my water tank, and I've opened it up twice in five years to investigate the submersible pump.
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Balls aside, I like the idea of the large access port for cleaning. What hatch (brand/size/model) did you use and how did you cut the hole in the tank?

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I purchased a screw in deck plate from West Marine similar to this one:

Beckson DP80-W-C Screw-Out Deck Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXVEZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_d.ucEbCAGY4XN

I used a jig saw to cut the hole. Sealed it with silicone sealant. I did the same thing on my gray water tank using a 4” inspection port.

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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
You mention "bio-slime" forming..... Whats that from and how often are you having to clean them..? Is the bio-slime a function of the material the balls are made of and unique to the balls and no bio-slime is forming on the inside of your water tank?

I've never noticed any slime on the interior of my water tank, and I've opened it up twice in five years to investigate the submersible pump.
The bio slime I referenced is just normal biological growth in any water tank that sits for long enough time. Nothing visible but you can feel the slippery feel on tank interior walls. Nothing related to the Wiffle balls. I shock the water tank at least once a year with a few ounces of diluted bleach to eliminate any growth in the tank.

All water has some small amount of bacteria present. Once the chorine in the tap water evaporates/reacts then the bacteria will multiply. Turnover of your water supply or occasional shocking will limit the bacteria.

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Coolmaxt

Member
I was reading through this awesome build (again) and want to do a 16 gallon grey tank like yours. Where did you get it and what are the dimensions?
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
I was reading through this awesome build (again) and want to do a 16 gallon grey tank like yours. Where did you get it and what are the dimensions?


This is the tank I purchased. Measures 26x11x14. I initially wanted to fit a larger 20 gallon gray water tank but could not find one with the proper dimensions. A 20 gallon tank would have been a tight fit. Turns out I rarely fill the 16 gallon tank more than halfway.

https://www.plastic-mart.com/product/3187/16-gallon-rv-water-tank-rvb526


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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
REFRIGERATOR

I decided early in my van build that I wanted a larger size fridge with a separate freezer. Other users have complained about the difficulty in maintaining temperatures in combo fridge/freezers. Either the lettuce is frozen or the ice cream is soft or melted. Also most of these fridge/freezer combo units have extremely small freezers. My target was a refrigerator/freezer between 6-8 total ft3.

My choices came down to three, the Norcold 6.1 ft3, Vitrifrigo 8 ft3, and an Isotherm 7 ft3. The Norcold and Isotherm were both narrower at the top which allowed them to sit closer to the Sprinter’s curved wall. The Vitrifrigo would have protruded further out into my aisle. The Isotherm 195 prevailed primarily because it was actually two separate units each with its own compressor. Temperature control would not be an issue. The tall/slim dimensions also work well in the Sprinter. The Isotherm did cost more but the added features and quality build were worth it. The separate freezer can also be powered down when not in use.





To secure the fridge in place I built a tubular steel frame from 1” thin-wall tubing. The steel frame is secured with 5/16” bolts and Rivnuts to the chassis in 9 locations, 4 in the floor, and another 5 into the horizontal wall beams. A thin layer of foam was used between the frame and chassis mounts to minimize any squeaks.

The steel frame tucks in just below the upper horizontal wall beam to take advantage of the window recess. Any higher and the fridge would sit another 2-3” into the aisle way. This height puts the fridge at about eye level and the freezer sits about 5-6 inches off the floor. So no bending over on my hands and knees to get a cold beer.









I glued some Teflon like plastic on the bottom of the steel frame to allow the Isotherm 195 to slide easily in and out for maintenance. I removed the condensate tray from the backside and plumbed the condensate line directly to my sink drain.



I covered the two sides of the steel frame with 1/4” prefinished maple ply using construction adhesive. I trimmed out the front with solid maple. The solid maple trim is grooved on the backside to slip over the 1/4” maple ply. The solid maple is held in place by the refrigerator which is bolted solid via the stainless flange using 1/4” bolts.

The finished cabinet using steel tubing and 1/4” ply was both stronger and lighter compared to using solid 3/4” ply. The 1” void between the 1/4” ply and the fridge was filled with 1” poly iso insulation. I also glued the same poly iso insulation to the backside of the Isotherm leaving a couple of vertical air flow channels. All of the wiring was secured for topside access.





I also attached some small wire leads directly to each compressor fan. Each lead powers an 80 mm computer fan on the top of the cabinet to assist in air movement when the compressor operates. I also left sufficient space for normal ventilation at both the top and bottom.



The upper portion of the cabinet was sized perfectly for a larger microwave. On the bottom I added a full width drawer.









Dimensionally the aisle way is about 23” wide. The refrigerator measures 22” deep. The removable maple trim provides an additional 3/4” of room. Across the aisle from the refrigerator is a 25” deep shower/bathroom. The maple trim surrounding the shower is also easily removable if additional space is needed to remove the Isotherm.

The added poly iso insulation appears to have a small impact on the power usage of the Isotherm, reducing average consumption by 2-3 watts per hour. Surprisingly the Isotherm refrigerator consumes as little as 15 watts on average per hour if the door is not opened. Under more typical use it consumes around 20 watts per hour. The freezer uses a similar amount of power but when both the fridge and freezer are on combined power usage drops slightly because of the shared walls.

The Danfoss compressors are also very quiet. They are barely audible at night even though they sit inches away from the bed.

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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
PROPANE SYSTEM

My propane system consists of a Manchester 6813 tank which feeds a standard two stage propane regulator. The low pressure propane feeds my Force 10 two burner range and oven as well as my outdoor portable fire pit.



The Manchester 6813 propane tank is perfectly sized to fit under the Sprinter. The tank measures 10”D x 23”L. The space on my drivers side measures approximately 12”W x 13”H. This tank has a volume of almost 7 gallons and can reportedly hold 5.5 gallons of propane. I have managed to get a maximum of 5 gallons into the tank which has lasted me for well over a year before refilling.



Manchester Tank 6813 10 x 23 Horizontal 6.9 Gallon Capacity LP Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GY9UHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4fGhEbG80Y4FZ

On my 170 van this propane tank fit just behind my Isotemp water heater and forward of my driver’s side batteries. The gauge protection shield hangs down just below the van sheet metal providing just enough room for refilling at my local propane distributor.



I looked at a few 8” diameter propane tanks but most were longer and had a smaller volume. I modified the hanger brackets on each end of the tank to provide an optimum amount of up and down adjustment. The custom made brackets holding the tank are secured to the van crossmembers using 5/16” Rivnuts. The forward mount is shared with the Isotemp water heater.



To monitor the propane level I installed a snap on magnetic dial gauge. The tank comes with a built in level indicator. The magnetic dial has a two wire feed which is connected to my See Level tank monitoring system.



Manchester Tank G12653 LP Gas Tank - Snap-On Dial Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GY9UTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_O3GhEb1GX6PK7



I used a 10’ long high pressure propane hose to supply my regulator which is mounted to the backside of my slider door step. I wanted both high and low pressure propane available on the passenger side to feed my portable campfire pit. The hose is rated for 350psi.



Bayou Classic 10' Stainless Lpg Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LXNYN9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_xzGhEb14CQ478

The regulator is a standard horizontal two stage propane unit.

Camco 59323 Horizontal Two Stage Propane Regulator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6TQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_tDGhEbW12WBGA

I used an assortment of low pressure hoses to supply my range and a quick release for the campfire pit. I installed a valve just upstream of the quick release just in case it leaks. The low pressure hose supplying my range follows a circuitous route thru the slider step and then up and over my water tank. The propane connection is accessible via the downdraft vent at the rear of the range.

Camco 59913 3' Propane Hose Assembly - 3/8" Female Flare x 3/8" Female Flare https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HG7Y7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wFGhEbB7D8KPY

GASPRO 3/8 Inch Natural Gas Quick Connect Fittings, LP Gas Propane Hose Quick Disconnect Kit, 100% Solid Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV458B1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5FGhEb00TG8W9

Homewerks VGV-1LH-T2B Premium Gas Ball Valve, Flare x Flare, Brass, 3/8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046HAANU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pHGhEb0DX41QH

I purchased a Camco portable fire pit and a 12’ long low pressure propane hose which allows me to position the fire pit along the passenger side. I have plans for an alternate high pressure propane connection for the fire pit in the future.



Camp Chef Gas Fire Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L4HSH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_YQGhEbD5MWWZ5

DOZYANT 12 Feet 3/8 inch ID Natural Gas Grill Hose with Quick Connect Propane Gas Hose Assembly for Low Pressure Appliance -3/8 Female Pipe Thread x 3/8 Male Flare Quick Disconnect - CSA Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CLJFSIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_eQGhEb1JQ3HS5

The interior range/oven is a Force 10 two burner. It is very compact measuring 16”D x 19” W. The oven is 0.7 ft3. Made for marine use, the oven door retracts beneath the oven when open. I installed a stainless backsplash and a downdraft fan along the wall.













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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
NEW TABLE TOP

The wife asked for a larger table and I wanted something more in tune with the maple that covered much of the interior. The Springfield Thread-Lock white plastic marine table had worked well until now. It rotated and could be quickly disassembled and stowed out of the way. I have two wall mounted clips that hold the removable table leg while the table slides into the overhead storage between the window covers.



Took about an hour to assemble a new larger table. Not sure why I waited so long. Found a leftover piece of 1/2” pre-finished maple ply buried in the garage. Used the existing marine table as the pattern but enlarged it by 6 inches in width from 18 to 24 and added an inch to the previous 30” length.

Ripped a 24 x 31 piece from the leftover maple ply. Covered the cut lines with painters tape to avoid shredding the veneer and used a fine tooth jigsaw blade to make the curved corners. Sanded out any undulations on my 80” belt sander.

Applied a 3/4” solid maple “iron on” edge band veneer using a household iron and then trimmed it using a veneer edge band trimmer. Finished the edge with a couple coats of wipe on urethane.

Drilled four 2 3/4” holes in opposing corners for the stainless cup holders I purchased earlier. Wrapped the top of each cup holder with two passes of electrical tape to provide a snug insert into the ply table.

I removed the post mount from the bottom of the plastic table and screwed it into the bottom of my new maple table. The new table rotates 360 degrees and stows flat since the cup holders are removable.

And the best part is now there are four beer holders instead of two. Cheers!









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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
OVERHEAD CABINETS

My goal in fabricating my overhead cabinets in my van was to mimic airline overhead bins. I wanted the face of the cabinet to match the slope of the van’s outer walls. I also wanted to keep them as light as possible but have natural maple cabinet fronts to match the interior.







To minimize the weight I used a frame and panel design which incorporates 1/4” ply wherever possible surrounded by 3/4” solid maple. The cabinets have a front and bottom but no top or backside. The driver’s side overhead is approximately 60” long while the passenger side is about 18” in length. The same construction techniques were employed for both the driver and passenger side.





Each cabinet consists of three horizontal wood stringers, one on top, one on the back, and a third at the lower corner. The wall and roof stringers were mounted first using 5/16” Rivnuts. The driver’s side wall stringer is positioned directly above my window such that the Rivnuts are located in the double thick sheet metal overlap for maximum strength. The roof wood stringer is mounted to a continuous piece of 1.5” aluminum angle for added strength. The angle is bolted to the OEM roof supports.







The wood for the stringers was ripped at approximately 9 degrees to match the slope of the van’s walls. An 1/8” deep dado allowed me to easily align and glue the additional wood support needed for the exposed faces. A close look at the cross section reveals added reliefs to accept the lighting panel and the factory headliner. The bottom corner stringer was rounded over using a 3/4” radius shaper cutter to eliminate any sharp edges. A thin layer of foam was also placed between each stringer and the wall or roof sheet metal to minimize any creaking.







Once the wall and roof stringers were mounted, I used some temporary braces to position the bottom corner stringer using clamps. Once properly aligned I added vertical support braces using a Kreg tool. The horizontal tie to the wall stringer consisted of 1/4” pre-finished maple ply glued to the wall and corner stringer. This piece also doubled as the bottom of the cabinet interior.









Once assembled in place the entire cabinet assembly is rigid enough to be removed and finished. The bare wood was coated with two or three coats of a rub-on oil based satin urethane. I used some scrap headliner material to fit the rear contour of the van wall and cabinet interior. The visible end panels are made from 3/4” pre-finished maple ply that have been banded on the edge. The non-visible ends are only 2 inches wide to again minimize the overall weight of the cabinet.









A set of Blum self closing hinges combined with an adjustable support leg are used to attach the doors. The doors can be easily and quickly removed if needed. Southco plastic latches were used. A full length 12 volt LED strip light was installed along the top edge of each cabinet. The lighting in all of the cabinets is controlled by a single “night light” rocker switch. An electrical quick disconnect allows the cabinets to be removed if needed.





On the bottom of each overhead cabinet is a lighting panel. The panel is made of 3/16” floor underlayment covered with 1/8” landau foam and a simulated leather that matches the front seats. 2” holes were drilled in the panel for the LED lights. The lights are connected to a dimmer switch mounted in a recessed 3x5” metal panel. The entire lighting panel recesses into the cabinet underside. A positionable reading light is also included on the drivers side while the passenger side includes a variable speed exhaust fan control.









Prior to building the new overhead cabinets my Blue Sea breaker panels were temporarily mounted in a piece of wood veneer that was hinged to the wall. I fabricated a new aluminum panel for the breaker panels and reoriented the hinge so the entire panel assembly would swing out without hitting the overhead cabinet or door. I also made a second smaller aluminum panel for a battery combiner and multiple relays.













I utilized the rearmost portion of my driver’s side overhead cabinet to house most of my gauges and controls. This includes my Espar D2 thermostat, Victron battery and solar gauges, SeeLevel tank level indicator with integrated pump and heater switches, CO/propane alarm, water heater thermostat, inverter remote, battery ACR remote, and a Weboost control switch. The panel is made from aluminum and uses magnets to hold it in place. The edges are trimmed with a black door edge guard. Al of the aluminum panels were sprayed with a black Plasticoat.

















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steved57

Member
Wow what a beautiful well thought out build - that is awesome !!

If you don't mind my asking what wheel well covers are those ?
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Wow what a beautiful well thought out build - that is awesome !!

If you don't mind my asking what wheel well covers are those ?

The rear wheel well covers are factory. The fronts are from Terrawagen. The fronts have faded faster than the factory plastic. Hopefully Terrawagen has improved the plastic resistance to UV.

 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Oh sorry I meant the foil looking covers inside the van over the wheel wells


Ohhh....those wheel well covers. The foil stuff is Noico sound deadner. I then covered the Noico with 1/4 thick mini-cell foam and finished it off with some Mercedes factory rubber wheel well covers. All of this was aimed at minimizing road noise and thermal losses. I had the added room for the mini-cell foam because I had raised the factory floor by 1/2”. This allowed the OEM wheel well covers to fit snugly over the mini-cell. I used 3M spray adhesive to attach the mini-cell foam and rubber wheel well covers.

 
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steved57

Member
Thanks for reply

Any chance of having part # for factory wheel covers - just curious if they are less expensive than the Terra Wagen wheel covers
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Thanks for reply

Any chance of having part # for factory wheel covers - just curious if they are less expensive than the Terra Wagen wheel covers

The part number mentioned in this forum is 906 684 09 59 7K26. Yes, the inner fender liners are much cheaper from sources other than Terrawagen. I found my pair online for about $100 delivered. I purchased them from a Mercedes dealer in Michigan.
 
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