Van Electrical Diagram & Misc Electrical Questions!!!

[seven_osavage]

Hey ya'll, I want to start off by saying I TRUELY appreciate any help/advice you have to offer, and will pay it forward by documenting + sharing my electrical install on youtube here on my channel once it's complete https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSLSw5fhejqXKbTwe6N1qBA.

First off, I've attached my electrical system diagram below and would like to know if you see any dangerous flaws. I've included links to the products & tried to make it as easy as possible to read but please ask if you have any clarifying questions.

High Res Electrical Diagram: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5h7uXaZMtUtajM3YW9kcGFIYzhqbGJjeld0U2w0dXJROUJJ/view?usp=sharing

Second, I have some miscellaneous questions that I could not find answers to via the search feature here:
1. Can I connect the output of my solar controller to the + and - bus bars instead of directly to the battery terminal?
2. Is the inline AC fuse between the inverter & the AC fuse box appropriate?
3. Can I connect the ground AND the negative input to the inverter to the negative bus bar (since the negative bus bar is grounded)

Once again, thank you for any help!

 

[hein]

1. All negative loads should converge on one side of shunt and only battery negative connected to the other.

2. You need a main (terminal) fuse on/near the battery positive post to protect the cable going from there to the switch and beyond to additional fuses. Wires/cables are sized for loads and fuses protect wires. Big load - big wire - big fuse; small load - small wire - small fuse. Having a large fuse on a small wire can cause the wire to become the fuse and that is a fire hazard. Fuses and breakers need to be as close as possible to the voltage source and anywhere that you are dropping down to a smaller gauge wire.

3. If you use an A,B A+B switch then you'll be able to supply power to either the inverter, 12V fuse panel or both. Common is connected to battery; A-inverter; B-12V panel. This also may eliminate the need for the positive buss and associated cables because you will be able to distribute connections to the two posts on the switch.

4. The type inline fuse you show at the chassis battery are normally junk. Get a better one. There may be an unused position on the fuse block next to the chassis battery. You can put an ANL fuse there.

5. Consider a DC to DC charger to limit current draw on the alternator to ~50A. MB limit is 40A. We offer the Kisae DMT-1250 which combines an MPPT solar controller with a battery combiner which limits alternator charging to 50A.

6. You don't show a shore power connection. You will need a 2-pole breaker between that and the inverter charger.

7. Inverter charger likely needs to have a dedicated chassis ground. Check your manual.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan

 

[seven_osavage]

@hein Thank you, this is extremely valuable info. The only point that confuses me is:

> If you use and A,B A+B switch then you'll be able to supply power to either the inverter, 12V fuse panel or both. Common is connected to battery; A-inverter, B-12V panel. This also may eliminate the need for the positive buss and associated cables.

I have it set up so that the 2 way switch just turns my electricity (after the batteries) on and off as I never have a use case for only turning on the inverter and not the 12v system. I have an inverter switch to turn the inverter on/off in isolation. I essentially plan to keep my electricity turned on 100% time of the time (unless the van is in storage).

In this case are there any advantages to the 3 way switch?

 

[hein]

@hein Thank you, this is extremely valuable info. The only point that confuses me is:

> If you use and A,B A+B switch then you'll be able to supply power to either the inverter, 12V fuse panel or both. Common is connected to battery; A-inverter, B-12V panel. This also may eliminate the need for the positive buss and associated cables.

I have it set up so that the 2 way switch just turns my electricity (after the batteries) on and off as I never have a use case for only turning on the inverter and not the 12v system. I have an inverter switch to turn the inverter on/off in isolation. I essentially plan to keep my electricity turned on 100% time of the time (unless the van is in storage).

In this case are there any advantages to the 3 way switch?

The 3 way switch is for convenience and to eliminate need for positive buss.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan