The S2 Tech Desc Doc specs the max exhaust total length of 2M. Pict shows total length includes muffler and both exhaust tubes.
Need help finding the Aux Battery connection point on a 2019 VS30 please
- Thread starter kinjachris
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FedEx just delivered the Espar and I wil check on the Documentation, but I believe what you described. Just looking at the exhaust pipe in the package it is not 2m nor will it reach the edge on the driver’s side, if started under the passenger seat.
Having the exhaust fumes accumulate under the van is, I assume, not recommended. So, I am guessing that what people have done is buy more exhaust pipe to reach the edge, as long as it stays under 2m.
Thanks for the info.
autostaretx
Erratic Member
Remember that that 2 meter specification is for the "default" narrow exhaust pipe.
If you increase the diameter (or probably simply used smooth instead of corrugated tubing) you can usually increase the length.
You're trying to minimize (or keep within some range) back-pressure.
Since the T1N Espars seem to work with the exhaust pipe rusted/corroded away (hence very short), i can't see a problem with a 50% increase in diameter. Even if it only gets that big after a foot or two of "narrow".
--dick
If you increase the diameter (or probably simply used smooth instead of corrugated tubing) you can usually increase the length.
You're trying to minimize (or keep within some range) back-pressure.
Since the T1N Espars seem to work with the exhaust pipe rusted/corroded away (hence very short), i can't see a problem with a 50% increase in diameter. Even if it only gets that big after a foot or two of "narrow".
--dick
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Wreckingcrewsdad
Member
F150 is direct from aux battery
Ek1 is from starter battery
Here’s a quick post w/ pics as to not high Jack this post.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=849605#post849605
Hey Guys,
So I am starting to hook up my house battery system and so far this thread has been pretty informative. I got a 2019 Sprinter and it has the EK1 and F150 boxes that are in the the manual links above, but I dont think that I have an auxiliary battery that came with it though. I dont see one underneath the hood or underneath the passenger seat.
I will be running two 100 amp Hr lithium batteries with a Renogy DC to DC 20 amp changer. What would be the best place to hook up the positive cable to the van? Seems like one of the F150 blocks should do the trick but I'm not too sure.
Thanks for any input.
So I am starting to hook up my house battery system and so far this thread has been pretty informative. I got a 2019 Sprinter and it has the EK1 and F150 boxes that are in the the manual links above, but I dont think that I have an auxiliary battery that came with it though. I dont see one underneath the hood or underneath the passenger seat.
I will be running two 100 amp Hr lithium batteries with a Renogy DC to DC 20 amp changer. What would be the best place to hook up the positive cable to the van? Seems like one of the F150 blocks should do the trick but I'm not too sure.
Thanks for any input.
Wreckingcrewsdad
Member
Post a picture of the inside your f150 connection box. I’d be interested to see what feeds it? It’s fed off a direct line from the aux battery typically. Also what other connections yours has?
Hey,
I attached 5 photos. Looks like I dont even have the F150 box most people have been using on this thread...aka the F150/5 box.
For my system that I got all I need is 20 amps of pull and a D+ or ignition wire to tell the charger when to be on.
I do have open terminals on the F150/4 fuse box and according to the fuse manual it should have plenty of amps, but i'm no super comfortable making that decision on my own.
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Wreckingcrewsdad
Member
That makes more sense, the f150 box goes w/ the aux battery. Wish I could be more help but I didn’t get into any power on the starter battery side. The EK1 has constant and ignition for relays.
autostaretx
Erratic Member
I think you DO have the F150/5 box ... i've highlighted it in your photo:
Basically, it's "on edge" and you need to open the snap-latches that are exposed on the top.
--dick
Basically, it's "on edge" and you need to open the snap-latches that are exposed on the top.
--dick
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Hey Dick,
I got that box open and its just a circuit board with no terminals to attach to.
I'm still thinking that large bus bar underneath everything might be where to i need to go. So far I got an 8 Awg wire with a 30 Amp fuse (which is renogy specs) coming from my charger that needs to be attached. I'm not sure exactly if I can just connect to that and be good to go though. don't wanna blow anything trying to set this up.
Also the charger says to hook up to negative terminal, but would the ground that I attached work? with an 8 awg wire?
Thanks for the input.
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autostaretx
Erratic Member
Another possible connection point is the "power distribution block" that's tucked in beside the battery itself.
In the 2019 fuse allocation book, it's listed as F150/1:
....
As for the negative ... well, it gets complicated.
If you connect directly to the starter battery's negative post, you're bypassing the "master disconnect" that's located by the accelerator pedal.
If you connect to the frame, then the disconnect will still remove the starter battery from the system (helpful when servicing airbags, for instance), but would leave the "house" systems still alive.
If none of your house loads are using the frame as their negative connection, then it bubbles down to *only* the charging (alternator) system is using the frame.
If it were me, i'd lean a bit towards using the frame, not the starter negative post, as my connection ... since it would leave the Master Disconnect still properly operating.
(you may tell the service writer about it, but will that info filter down to the poor mechanic)
As a help, you can add a label (such as wrapped on the cable at the disconnect) warning about the 2nd "ground" connection.
--dick
In the 2019 fuse allocation book, it's listed as F150/1:
....
As for the negative ... well, it gets complicated.
If you connect directly to the starter battery's negative post, you're bypassing the "master disconnect" that's located by the accelerator pedal.
If you connect to the frame, then the disconnect will still remove the starter battery from the system (helpful when servicing airbags, for instance), but would leave the "house" systems still alive.
If none of your house loads are using the frame as their negative connection, then it bubbles down to *only* the charging (alternator) system is using the frame.
If it were me, i'd lean a bit towards using the frame, not the starter negative post, as my connection ... since it would leave the Master Disconnect still properly operating.
(you may tell the service writer about it, but will that info filter down to the poor mechanic)
As a help, you can add a label (such as wrapped on the cable at the disconnect) warning about the 2nd "ground" connection.
--dick
So I have attached a crude drawing of what my system will look like. On the power distribution block can I just plug it on any open terminal? And is the way I have it drawn good enough to attach it and be done?
Also in the drawing my house system has its negative bus bar going to a ground bolt in the frame that I installed. Hoping that doesn't cause issues, this stuffs all new to me.
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Hey Dick, just a second follow up. just realized that the picture of the 150/1 box is pretty much where I am gonna go with the hook up. You used a 150 Fuse, was there any reason for that? and what should I use? the charger only draws 20 amps and there is a 25 or 30 amp inline fuse already on the wire I will be connecting.
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autostaretx
Erratic Member
To be clear: that is NOT my fuse block (i have a T1N, not an NCV3/VS30).
It's just a photo grabbed from another thread by another member.
You may certainly fuse it as you wish... it's quite likely that the photo was feeding a 2nd battery, so needed "full charging" current capabilities.
(if i was only adding a load, i would also fuse with a suitable-for-load smaller (fewer amps) fuse.
If i was planning "future expansion", i might go bigger ... or use the small and install a bigger fuse only when required)((if/when i ever got around to the "expansion"))
--dick
It's just a photo grabbed from another thread by another member.
You may certainly fuse it as you wish... it's quite likely that the photo was feeding a 2nd battery, so needed "full charging" current capabilities.
(if i was only adding a load, i would also fuse with a suitable-for-load smaller (fewer amps) fuse.
If i was planning "future expansion", i might go bigger ... or use the small and install a bigger fuse only when required)((if/when i ever got around to the "expansion"))
--dick
Dick, you have been more than helpful to everyone that has and will read this post. Thank you, so much.
Do you happen to know if the fuses in the F150/1 block are mini ANL or a mega series fuse? I dont have access to the van today but wanna get some parts before hand
autostaretx
Erratic Member
I don't know the fuse size, sorry ... a call to the MB parts desk (say, for the 50 amp) might get an "authoritative" answer.
--dick
--dick
I don't see an answer to this in this thread. And in my 2019 there is not a ground stud in the location labeled "1" on page 252. I do see the three ground bolts over by the large hole in the floor, one in front of it and two behind it. They have some other wiring grounded there. Are they OK to use as long as there are no more than 4 terminal lugs per ground stud, as specified in the BEG? Anyone know where the approved ground point is for 2019s? Here is the picture from the 2019 BEG:
erik.wahlstrom
Well-known member
You can use any of them. I used this one.
@familytruckster11 do you have a pic of your completed connection? I'm a newbie, following this post and trying to connect my 12 circuit fuse box using the aux battery. Did you connect your positive cable to one of the open bolts (A1 or A2), or onto the aux battery (A3 position from the diagram)? I'm trying to connect this secondary fuse box such that when the engine is on, I get the power straight from the starter battery, and when the engine is off the power comes from the aux battery.