T1N dying @ idle

JoeyB

Active member
Hey guys.
My T1N recently started dying when idling. It seems to die about 1x per ~30 minute drive. There is no signs that it is about to die, it just shuts off with a very slight "jerk."

The first time it started right back up.

The 2nd time, it would not even try starting up and I had to put it in park, take the key out, and try again. It started right up after this.

The 3rd time it died it just kept trying to start. I pushed the gas pedal slightly and it started up.

I got a code scanner (Autel MD802 all systems) and checked the codes. There were some glow plug codes and CAN fault codes (P1927, P1925, 563E, and 5154 but they were labelled as "stored" not "current." The only "current" code was P1926 which I've read is to be ignored. I also had some RADIO codes).

The 4th time it died while I was in a parking spot, and I tried starting it 4-5 times to no avail. The CEL came on during this, but I thought it would still be on and I could read the codes later. I let it sit for about 30-40 minutes while I ate, then when I came back to the van I turned the key all the way over to the accessory position 3-4 times (to engage the fuel pump).

After that, it started right up again. The CEL also went away once it started up. :bash:



I am also not sure I am using the scanner 100% correctly. I noticed some of the stored codes had the mileage of 95,000 or so. I tried clearing them with the scanner, but when I ran the system scan (Scan->European->Sprinter->1.Sprinter->
3.YD.; WD.; XD.(KWP 2001-2006)->
3.USA, Canada->) they seemed to come right back but still showed as "stored" and not "current."
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
The "mileage" that's stored with the codes "rolls over" every 65536 km. (40772.182 miles)

So it requires a bit of math to equate your odometer reading to the code's number.

Example: if your odometer is showing 150,000 miles, you'd subtract 40772 as many times as possible:
150000-40772-40772-40772= 27684
then convert that to km: 44583 ... which would be the number that the code would record for a fault at 150k miles.
At 163088 miles, the code's "mileage" number would roll back to zero. (that's the next 40772 increment).

--dick
 

JoeyB

Active member
The "mileage" that's stored with the codes "rolls over" every 65536 km. (40772.182 miles)

So it requires a bit of math to equate your odometer reading to the code's number.

Example: if your odometer is showing 150,000 miles, you'd subtract 40772 as many times as possible:
150000-40772-40772-40772= 27684
then convert that to km: 44583 ... which would be the number that the code would record for a fault at 150k miles.
At 163088 miles, the code's "mileage" number would roll back to zero. (that's the next 40772 increment).

--dick
Thank you! I was not aware of this.

The van has around 185k and it had ~90,000 as the listed mileage on the code.

185,000-(4*40772) = 21,912 miles.
21,912 miles = 35,263.946 km.

Doesn't line up with when this began dying, but I am recalling this from memory. I'll have to use the scanner again later today after work and check again to be 100%.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Check if the scanner is reporting "miles" or km.

Either way, the Sprinter's P-code system only records *km* (internally) in a 16-bit piece of memory, so the largest number it's capable of is 65536. So i'm not sure of how the scanner can claim "90,000 miles"

(when i'm doing the above math for my own Sprinter, *first* i convert the odometer to KM, then i do the multiple subtractions using 65536),

good luck
--dick
 

JoeyB

Active member
Check if the scanner is reporting "miles" or km.

Either way, the Sprinter's P-code system only records *km* (internally) in a 16-bit piece of memory, so the largest number it's capable of is 65536. So i'm not sure of how the scanner can claim "90,000 miles"

(when i'm doing the above math for my own Sprinter, *first* i convert the odometer to KM, then i do the multiple subtractions using 65536),

good luck
--dick
I didn't think before I spoke there! I get what you're saying. I'll take a look again today after work. Thanks Dick!
 

JoeyB

Active member
I updated the Autel MD802 software and checked the codes again today, a code that was not showing before is now showing:
2045-004
"The signal from component B73 (Crankshaft sensor) is faulty. Unknown fault: -1"

I could not find the sub-fault 4 in the Complete Sprinter Fault Code Guide (and no mention of this sub fault on the forum). I am suspecting the crankshaft sensor may be what is causing the issue, and luckily I already have one as I got a spare parts kit from MMS.

I also noticed that the van's battery was basically dead after I pulled the codes and it has only been sitting for a week and a half, I am suspecting I may have a bad battery (from the other multiple times the battery has been dead after sitting for just 2 weeks). I did not try to start the van before reading the codes again, so I believe that the crankshaft code was not caused by the dead battery as I know trying to start the van with a dead battery can throw all kinds of crazy codes.

I also looked over some parts of the wire harness, one of the main points I've seen short out on this forum is by the fuel filter. I was looking at it and it looks like the sleeves are still OK:


Should I cut them back and inspect anyways just to be sure? or leave it as is? I figure the cables should be fine if the sleeves haven't been damaged, but wanted to be sure.

Also noticed this ground looks a bit rough:


I plan to clean it up soon. Any other grounds I should check out and clean up?
 

leafy

New member
Crank sensors don't last forever ...when there time is up it will make the vehicle cut out all of a sudden at anytime,I would definitely change that to begin with.Those earth wires on the bulkhead were common on my 312d for corrosion so had to clean mine, I then sprayed with a bit of grease in a can,spray a bit on your battery terminals too.As for the other wiring cables in the sleeves I would leave those as you could do more damage inspecting them ,and I only ever find problems with cables on tight turns to be honest .
 

JoeyB

Active member
I also noticed it looks like this hose is leaking some oil all over this connector, is there a gasket here that may be leaking or is it just the clamp on the hose? Thanks guys



Crank sensors don't last forever ...when there time is up it will make the vehicle cut out all of a sudden at anytime,I would definitely change that to begin with.Those earth wires on the bulkhead were common on my 312d for corrosion so had to clean mine, I then sprayed with a bit of grease in a can,spray a bit on your battery terminals too.As for the other wiring cables in the sleeves I would leave those as you could do more damage inspecting them ,and I only ever find problems with cables on tight turns to be honest .
I'll try to clean it all up with a wire brush and maybe break cleaner on a rag, then hit it with some grease. Thanks!
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
I also noticed it looks like this hose is leaking some oil all over this connector, is there a gasket here that may be leaking or is it just the clamp on the hose? Thanks guys
Looks to me more like a turbo air leak spraying the entrained oil (there will be some) on to the side of the sensor.
I'd look *really really* carefully at the edge of the big rubber hose (and hose clamp) that are there.

(perhaps clean, and/or cover that sensor area to catch the *next* squirt of oil or fuel.)

That's the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor.

--dick
 

JoeyB

Active member
Today I got under the van and changed out the crankshaft sensor.

It actually went incredibly smoothly! The only hiccup I had was I read to use a small 1/4" rachet with a 3" extension, well, 3" ended up being a hair too long (maybe my socket is longer than normal) so I had to run back out and get a 2" extension.

After that the bolt came out really easy. Getting the connector off was pretty easy too, though I had to squeeze it higher up than I first thought (right below the cabling, my first few times I was squeezing closer to the middle).
The sensor was in there pretty well, I couldn't even get it to budge with my bare hand. I threw on a latex glove so I could get some better grip and it came right out. It had a bit of rust on it, I tried to clean out the hole a bit, reinstalled the new sensor and so far so good.




We took the van on a 60 mile test drive and didn't have any issues at all. :bow:

I got some pretty good video of this, so I plan to piece together a video to help others in write ups section here soon.

I noticed quite a few spots of rust on the frame I need to address soon. :yell: I am about burned out on treating rust on this van, but I know it will ensure a long life time!

My battery was dead, again, so I need to get it tested and probably replace it here in the next couple days. I should had just went ahead and bought one when I was out today. Oh well, just another thing to add to the to-do list.
 
Last edited:

220629

Well-known member
The removed sensor clearly has Bosch on the body.

The molding of the plug connector looks a bit different. Is the replacement a Bosch sensor? If no, what brand?

T1NcrankshaftPic.jpg

The length of the sensors appears a bit different, but that is likely camera angle/perspective.

:cheers: vic
 

JoeyB

Active member
The removed sensor clearly has Bosch on the body.

The molding of the plug connector looks a bit different. Is the replacement a Bosch sensor? If no, what brand?

View attachment 112728

The length of the sensors appears a bit different, but that is likely camera angle/perspective.

:cheers: vic
I am unsure, I bought it from MMS as part of his spare parts kit. On the sensor all it says was "Made in Germany."

On his website, he has it pictured in a bag labeled Bosch.

 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
I'm not at all suggesting that you go under, pull it out and *look*...

But for other folks, the Bosch logo is kind'a an H inside a circle.

BoschLogo.png

(the "H" is supposed to represent the armature of a generator)

--dick
 
Last edited:

JoeyB

Active member
I'm not at all suggesting that you go under, pull it out and *look*...

But for other folks, the Bosch logo is kind'a an H inside a circle.

View attachment 112737

(the "H" is supposed to represent the armature of a generator)

--dick
I'm not going to pull it out :lol: I think I have some close up video on my camera of the new sensor too I haven't looked at it yet.
Looking at the pictures I took on my phone, these are the markings:
On one side: "Made in Germany"
On the other: "7NE 4440", "B-T214" (could be an 8 instead of a B, the 2 may be a Z, it's just out of focus :thumbdown:)

I'll try to check the video later today, about to cut a big hole in the van for our 3rd slider window
 
Last edited:

Top Bottom