Replacement of front brake pads and rotor

Kiltym

'05 Westy
First, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I was able to change all four brake pads and rotors this weekend, in about 5 hours. I wrote up notes for me to follow since I was new at all this, and wanted to share here to hopefully help others.

Our van has Bosch dual piston front calipers and ATE single piston rear.

We adjusted the parking brake on both rear's, but did not change anything as all looked OK.

We used the following parts:
Front pads: Raybestos SP1136TR
Front rotors: Zimmerman 400647520
Rear pads: Rabestos SP1006TR
Rear rotors: Zimmerman 400646920

The pads came with wear sensors. All pads are DOT rated "FF". The rotors are "Z-Coated".


These are some resources I used to compile the below, as well as posts on this forum.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMMTQIr9nQs&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zFhaQ4I5sg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M39IyUw1PdM (good)




Fronts:

With car on ground, break lug nuts.
Chock rear wheels.
Raise car.
Remove wheel.
Turn steering wheel outward.
Spray PB Blaster around hub and into all 5 lug holes.
Tap on rotor near T-50 Screw to loosen. Remove T-50 Torx on rotor. (Apply brakes, use a long bar with wheel lug to ground, screwdriver between rotor and caliper.)
Disconnect the wear sensor at plug.
Remove 2 caliper guide pin/bolts. 13mm hex.
Use a C clamp against the front pad to release the calipers slightly before removing them.
Caliper should come off and leave pads behind. Rest caliper between frame and sway bar. Careful not to kink brake line
Remove the brake pads.
Tap with hammer, then remove 2 caliper bracket bolts. 19mm hex.
Remove caliper bracket.
Hammer the rotor, swap between top and bottom to free rotor.
Remove the rotor.
Wire brush the hub a bit.
Wire brush the pad guides on bracket, top and bottom.
Soft brush the caliper around the pistons, rubber boot.
Open cap on brake fluid reservoir.
Push pistons back in using old brake pad and C-Clamp. Must push both pistons at the same time! Use an old brake pad.
Close cap on brake fluid reservoir.
Wire brush and clean the caliper.
Apply thin coat of grease on hub/mating surfaces. Just general grease.
Clean and wipe down rotor.
Install rotor.
Install T-50 torx into rotor, with a little grease. Apply brakes or use lug nut and long bar to lock rotor. 17 ft/lbs.
Grease the pad guides on the bracket. Use brake grease.
Install the bracket. Use Loctite blue on threads. 125 ft/lbs.
Install wear sensor into the pad.
Grease the back side of both pads. Use brake grease.
Install the new pads into the bracket.
Clean the guide pins. Apply Loctite blue on threads, and brake grease on smooth section.
Install caliper using top guide bolt. Slide/drop caliper into position. 18.5 ft/lbs.
Install bottom guide bolt. 18.5 ft/lbs
Attach brake wear sensor.
Grease contact surface on rotor.
Install wheel. 138 ft/lbs.


Rears:

With car on ground, break lug nuts.
Chock front wheels.
Raise car.
Remove wheel.
Release parking brake and put in neutral.
Spray PB Blaster around hub and into all 5 lug holes.
Tap on rotor near T-50 Screw to loosen. Remove T-50 Torx on rotor. (Apply brakes, use a long bar with wheel lug to ground, screwdriver between rotor and caliper.)
Disconnect the wear sensor at plug.
Remove the metal spring/bracket on outside of caliper.
Remove plastic dust covers over the caliper bolts.
Remove 2 caliper guide pin/bolts (7mm allen). At minimum, these need to be clear of the caliper bracket. Can remove by sliding pins out with flat head screwdriver.
Use a C clamp against the front pad to release the calipers slightly before removing them.
Caliper should come off with pads. Likely need to pry them out with flathead screwdriver(s). Rest caliper on something. Careful not to kink brake line.
Remove the brake pads.
Tap with hammer, then remove 2 caliper bracket bolts. 18mm hex.
Remove caliper bracket.
Insert flat head and loosen emergency brake fully.
Hammer the rotor, swap between top and bottom to free rotor.
Remove rotor.
Wire brush the hub a bit.
Wire brush the pad guides on bracket, top and bottom.
Soft brush the caliper around the piston.
Open cap on brake fluid reservoir.
Push piston back in using old brake pad and C-Clamp.
Close cap on brake fluid reservoir.
Wire brush and clean the caliper.
Apply thin coat of grease on hub/mating surfaces (NOT THE PARKING BRAKE!). Just general grease.
Clean and wipe down rotor.
Install rotor.
Tighten parking brake through lug hole to lock rotor in place.
Install T-50 torx into rotor. 17 ft/lbs.
Loosen parking brake through lug hole 2-3 teeth. Confirm wheel turns freely. If not, loosen another tooth and re-check.
Grease the pad guides on the bracket. Use brake grease.
Install wear sensor into the pads.
Install the caliper bracket and bolts. Use Loctite blue on threads. 66 ft/lbs.
Grease the back side of both pads. Use brake grease.
Install the new pads into the caliper. One with the bracket goes into piston.
Place caliper into caliper bracket with the pads.
Clean the guide pins. Apply Loctite blue on threads, and brake grease on smooth section.
Install top and bottom guide bolts. 18.5 ft/lbs
Connect brake wear sensor.
Attach metal clamp/bracket onto outside of caliper.
Grease contact points on rotor.
Install wheel. 138 ft/lbs.
 
Very helpful thread! Thank you.

Started doing the front pads and rotors today on my '06 - got the first new rotor on, gave it a spin and noticed it was way out of spec for runout (wobble/warp). Dug out my dial indicator and rigged it up - that one was out 90+ thousandths. Same procedure with second rotor, 50+ out on that.

edit: Rotors were fine, see below.
 
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Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Just snugged up the torx bolt. I did compare on both sides as well as with the old rotors (and the hub itself) as a sanity check.
The single Torx bolt will often pull the disc off true. Try tightening two or three lug bolts, with washers under the heads if needed, to fully seat the disc then re-check.

Keith.
 
The single Torx bolt will often pull the disc off true. Try tightening two or three lug bolts, with washers under the heads if needed, to fully seat the disc then re-check.

Keith.
Good call. Just tried it with one lug through an oversized nut and washer opposite the torx, and it ran true. Whoops.
 
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