Is this bad? Does it need to be replaced?

travisap

Member
Rust looks bad- not sure if I should be concerned or if that is... normal? Ha. Appreciate your input.

2008 Dodge Sprinter, 144WB High Roof 31K miles
 

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CJPJ

2008 3500 170"ext. 3.0 V6 OM642.993
Yes it will fail and come apart
 
Rust looks bad- not sure if I should be concerned or if that is... normal? Ha. Appreciate your input.

2008 Dodge Sprinter, 144WB High Roof 31K miles
That's probably going to break after a few bad pot holes but here is a possible fix:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-exhaust-clamp-18101745190

I am not suggesting that this is the exact part to fit but something like this of the correct diameter would probably work well. You have to cut the pipe cleanly and ensure the two pipe pieces butt closely together. This type of clamp is found on VW/ Audi as well and comes in many sizes usually in 5mm increments.
 

Mickyfin

Member
Thats at the end of its service life, best to renew before it blows off.
 

showkey

Well-known member
You guys need to get out more...........that’s a normal pipe and bad clamp in the salt belt.
Wire brush and evaluate the pipe, clamp and joint.
Often it’s the clamp material with less or no stainless content causing the corrosion and the pipe is really not damaged to point of replacement. Clean and test the pipe with a pick and replace the clamp.

By the looks of the pipe and muffler away from the clamp area .......it’s probable this truck never saw winter use.
 
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srt4ny

Member
Just cut off the rusty part and reinstall thats what i did you will shorten it about 2-3 inches but its not a problem plenty of room to do so
 
The clamp in your photo looks like the same clamp that broke loose on my '07 last November leaving 12' of tailpipe still attached at the terminus near the bumper and the front portion of the tailpipe dragging down the road from the area near the junction with the resonator. Although it luckily ended well for me, whenever you're pushing a a long section of tailpipe down the road, it's only pure chance that prevents it from hooking into a crack in the road and acting like a pole vault before folding itself up into the floorboard and taking out brake lines (or lord knows what else) at highway speed.

In other words, my experience suggests it's not a matter of 'if' the tailpipe is going to break where you found the rust, it's a matter of 'when' it's going to break.

I'm glad you noticed the weak spot before it broke and hope all's been well since.

Best of luck! :thumbup:
 

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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
You guys need to get out more...........that’s a normal pipe and bad clamp in the salt belt.
Wire brush and evaluate the pipe, clamp and joint.
Often it’s the clamp material with less or no stainless content causing the corrosion and the pipe is really not damaged to point of replacement. Clean and test the pipe with a pick and replace the clamp.

By the looks of the pipe and muffler away from the clamp area .......it’s probable this truck never saw winter use.
I agree with Showkey FWIW.

It's criminal to replace an entire pipe for such a localized problem. I have been smearing copper anti-seize on similar areas of the 2006 in hopes to slow down similar localized damage.

I agree with inspection and repair. Pipe cutting/separation might not be necessary. This style clamp might fit right over the damaged area once the rusted clamp is carefully hacksawed loose and removed. I apply anti-seize before installing similar clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-lis...?ie=UTF8&condition=all&qid=1558790265&sr=8-15

If most any pipe breaks the pipe, muffler and other parts become unsupported and there is risk of falling apart.

I would also suggest adding a support or two. One support on the downstream side of the pipe and one close to the muffler will be best. I have used simple monel baling wire looped to trucker bungee hooks hung in existing frame holes or other support. Rubber donuts can be included of you're concerned about noise transfer. I've found that unnecessary though.

There are also vibration isolating commercial hanger units which can easily be adapted to other parts.

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-36274-Exhaust-Hanger/dp/B001AX9WJ6

Rubber noise insulator.

https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-Insulator-Bracket-Diameter-Universal/dp/B07MQKPS8W

I often pick up this style from the roadside while walking the dog.
https://www.amazon.com/Walker-35352-Exhaust-Insulator/dp/B000CQBG82

Before failure I installed a ss strap sling to support the muffler. It's saved loss of muffler a couple times now.

:2cents: vic
 
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