Tail light, taillight, brake light, rear light circuit, rear lamp, running light
Have more information? Feel free to add to this Write-up.
Have Questions? Please take questions to a new thread or tag on to another appropriate thread.
A quick search didn't reveal a Write-up thread specific to T1N Tail Lights. This is a compilation of some information. To see pictures/attachments related to the posts/threads just click on the blue arrow icon within any quote box. That will take you to the original post/thread.
This thread does have some repair info.
Rear Lamp Socket Assemblies
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51046
and here
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=591692#post591692
Thanks to Billintomahawk I have a Chinese copy of the circuit board lamp holder assembly. It looks very similar to the OEM units on my 2004 and 2006. One difference is that there is no jumper to include the lower position as a running light. I have ordered a Dorman lamp unit to compare the two aftermarket replacement parts.
For now the compilation.
From Cheap Tricks.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=99430#post99430
This thread contains some good general information.
How to remove plug from rear light assembly
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74884
I still recommend giving the assemblies a spritz of WD40 when installed, or as preventative maintenance for older assemblies. Spritz the connector with WD40 or dab/coat with Vaseline before installing.
Have more information? Feel free to add to this Write-up.
Have Questions? Please take questions to a new thread or tag on to another appropriate thread.
vic
Here's what I recommend for a NAS aka NAFTA T1N:
Top Lamp = Brake/Tail = 1157LL 12V 21W/5W)
2nd down = Backup = 1156LL (12V 21W)
3rd Down = Turn = 1156LL (12V 21W)
Bottom Lamp = Tail = 5007LL (12V 5W) - Do not use more watts or it will appear that the brake lights are on.
Aftermarket Units... All Units???
Before installing a new tail light unit inspect to assure that the circuit bar cross ties have been properly cut and spaced. If the clipped tie ends are left too close to each other they can short across with water. Brokecanadian found some of the ties hadn't been clipped. That caused odd electrical problems. (See Post #23.)
Have more information? Feel free to add to this Write-up.
Have Questions? Please take questions to a new thread or tag on to another appropriate thread.
A quick search didn't reveal a Write-up thread specific to T1N Tail Lights. This is a compilation of some information. To see pictures/attachments related to the posts/threads just click on the blue arrow icon within any quote box. That will take you to the original post/thread.
This thread does have some repair info.
Rear Lamp Socket Assemblies
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51046
and here
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=591692#post591692
Thanks to Billintomahawk I have a Chinese copy of the circuit board lamp holder assembly. It looks very similar to the OEM units on my 2004 and 2006. One difference is that there is no jumper to include the lower position as a running light. I have ordered a Dorman lamp unit to compare the two aftermarket replacement parts.
For now the compilation.
From Cheap Tricks.
ABS ESP Traction Lights On Brake Light Fuse (#5?) Blown Shift LockedABS ESP Traction Lights On Brake Light Fuse (#5?) Blown Shift Locked
20151130, 20160928. 20190330 edit: As of today... 8+ years now, what some may consider a temporary repair with inserting the insulation material in the light assembly is still going strong. I'm thinking that the repair is quite permanent for me.
*********************************
Yesterday my ABS, ESP and Traction (tire slipping symbol) lights came on. The van seemed fine except for the array of annoying lights on the dash. One caution I would give is that if those lights do come on you need to verify whether your brake lights are still working. Mine weren't and I didn't know ( or remember?) I needed to check the brake light operation. Therefore I didn't check the fuse immediately as I should have. (Fuse #5 under the steering column in my 2004 by the way.) Your cruise control will also not function. This is a Cheap Trick because I don't believe it is necessary to replace the tail light assembly to cure this particular shorting problem.
20100715 edit: I forgot to add that if the lights above come on the shifter will lock in Park. You will need to carefully use a small screwdriver or pencil pushed down through the little cover door below the "D" on the shifter to manually release the shift lever for Reverse-Neutral-Drive. Once the shifter is returned to Park it will need to be released manually again.
Revelation:
Your ignition key will work perfectly to release the shift lock. It is just long enough.
My method.
Use the ignition key to release the shift lever. Shift to neutral. Start the van and drive.
Revelations cease here.
I've read about people having trouble with the tail light traces. The traces are a galvanized metal array of conductors used in the rear light assembly to distribute power to all the tail lamps. They look too well designed to go bad. Well, the traces themselves don't go bad, but the other connections nearby may. There are two points on my 2004 NAFTA TIN dual filament tail/stop lamps which are close to the negative trace. In my case it was the right rear connector to the stop lamp pin which moved in and shorted the brake circuit to the negative (ground) trace. The metal end of the "stop" trace is pushed into that connection. The connection may have gotten hot and loosened the plastic holders? My inserted insulation in the form of nylon cable tie material trimmed to fit pushes that connection tight again. (At least that's the theory. I'll need to watch that it doesn't loosen and fail again.) In a pinch some slivers of whittled wood would also work fine as spacers/insulators.
This is where to look for the problems.
View attachment 24888
Both my photography and edit skills are marginal at best. The text above reads "Insulation Inserted In Two Places".
This is a picture of the entire parking light assembly traces.
View attachment 24887
I used paint sticks to color code the traces for another earlier troubleshooting session. It made it easier for me to follow what was going to where. I inserted insulation to all of my stop lamp potential problem areas (both sides = 4 total) to help avoid any future problems.
The colors I used on the traces were what I had that weren't dried up. The color scheme isn't logical. Yellow = tail lights. Red = stop light. Green = amber lens turn signal.
You may have noticed that I used some dabs of Goop glue to secure the plastic tie pieces in place even though they were tightly inserted. (You would notice that for sure if the picture was better.)
Too many fuses later after I finally successfully traced (pun intended) and repaired the problem, I figured I'd need my DAD to reset the codes for all the warning lights to go out. Fortunately I was also working on my steering column fuse block so I discovered that all you need to do is remove the added fuse block attached to the positive post for a minute or so. (Or disconnect the battery negative.) When it is reconnected the ABS, ESP, and Traction lights should all act normally, of course your radio and other toys may then need reprogramming too. The trouble codes remain in memory though.
Have fun. vic
A different failure mode on the 2004.
When my 2004 brake lights both failed I suspect that it didn't happen simultaneously. They both had similar corrosion on the spring/force fit interface between the steel trace and the socket brake filament/lamp connection (within the tail lamp assembly, not the external connector). One area probably corroded first going unnoticed and was followed some time later by the other failing.
My repair was to slip a hairpin of thin stiff wire - I used nickel wire approx. 20 AWG - into the compromised connection. That has been a permanent repair. I recommend that all T1N owners periodically spritz the tail lamp electrical parts with WD40. That should hold corrosion at bay. It is all covered in the link that I posted above.
Rear Lamp Socket Assemblies
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=493351
View attachment 110348
vic
20101006 edit:
There is more information related to troubleshooting the brake light system in this post starting about post #6. Thanks goes to all contributors.
Electrical issues - brake lights, cruise, ASR
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12715
Edit: Added misc info.
Another shift lock possibility with no ABS, Traction or other dash lights though.
Some general info on wire colors for the rear lights.I have had to replace 2 brake light switches on my 2005 for this same problem.
A different but similar problem: does the display tell you the transmission is in park?
If not, I just had and intermittent problem with mine doing the same thing and it turned out to be the transmission relay.
Dr. A gave me some starting places to do some testing of circuits and I stumbled upon the relay by accident.
It is the blue relay under the drivers seat at the front of the pedestal. When the trans wouldn't go into gear, I flicked
the relay with my finger and away she went. I do have to mention though that the display wasn't telling me which gear the
transmission was in when my problems occurred. After messing with the relay the display would work. Replaced the 15.00 relay
and now all is OK.
Wiring I found:
Tail/Park: L = Gray/Blk, R = Gray/Red
Stop: L = Blk/Red, R = Blk/Red
Backup: L = Wht/Red, R = Wht/Red
Turn: L = Blk/Wht, R = Blk/Grn
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=25838#post25838
View attachment 82001
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=99430#post99430
****************Tail lights on, turn signal on all the time
Here's a post related to trailer light modules and rear tail/brake lights.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7505
AP/vic
Edit: My "Cheap Trick" recommendation is to check the drain holes that were found plugged before they ruin your modules and cause problems.
Thanks for the input in your previous post Farm Bus
This thread contains some good general information.
How to remove plug from rear light assembly
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74884
I still recommend giving the assemblies a spritz of WD40 when installed, or as preventative maintenance for older assemblies. Spritz the connector with WD40 or dab/coat with Vaseline before installing.
Have more information? Feel free to add to this Write-up.
Have Questions? Please take questions to a new thread or tag on to another appropriate thread.
vic
Here's what I recommend for a NAS aka NAFTA T1N:
Top Lamp = Brake/Tail = 1157LL 12V 21W/5W)
2nd down = Backup = 1156LL (12V 21W)
3rd Down = Turn = 1156LL (12V 21W)
Bottom Lamp = Tail = 5007LL (12V 5W) - Do not use more watts or it will appear that the brake lights are on.
Aftermarket Units... All Units???
Before installing a new tail light unit inspect to assure that the circuit bar cross ties have been properly cut and spaced. If the clipped tie ends are left too close to each other they can short across with water. Brokecanadian found some of the ties hadn't been clipped. That caused odd electrical problems. (See Post #23.)
Last edited: