Mother of all L Track threads.

[220629]

The long(er) length wheelchair L-track I've purchased has 82 degree pre-drilled holes on 4" centers.

Aluminum Aircraft Grade L-Track - WLL 2,000 Lbs
https://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/Heavy-Duty-L-Track

Added:
I noticed an interesting comment.

"INSTALLING L-TRACK
There are many types of L-track installations and each one can be quite different. Thus, we no longer carry installation hardware. We also cannot provide any instruction for installations for the same reason."
That comment goes along with some of the discussions found here in Sprinter-source threads.


I believe that 82º countersunk is a standard for aircraft type L-track. There is no standard which I'm aware of that says L-track for general vehicle use needs to conform to aircraft standards. Short(er) L-track sections have been reported to often be a lesser quality/grade. Some may have a different angle.


This product mentions 82º 1/4" fasteners.
Standard-Duty L-Track Working Load Limit:1,000 Lbs
https://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/Standard-L-Track
Added:
Maybe the 1/4" pre-drilled hole size/fastener is what determines the 1000# vs 2000# rating? (2000# has 5/16" pre-drilled holes.)


That doesn't mean that other fasteners with different angles won't still work on 82º countersunk. It may compromise the designed strength, but can be fine for typical RV vehicle use.

vic

 

[gltrimble]

I used stainless tapered head countersunk 8mm bolts for my L Track. Fit perfectly. Available in various lengths.

Bolt Base 8mm A2 Stainless Steel Countersunk Csk Hex Head Socket Screw Allen Bolts M8 X 30 - 50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3RLILY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QDR.CbXNPHPEA

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Looking back at my purchases I actually used 5/16-18 stainless 304 flathead bolts for all of my L-Track. My pre-drilled 100” long L-Track came with 5/16” holes. This supplier has every possible length available.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/161955998475

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[Chrisg225]

Does anybody know where you can buy the factory style l-track? My 2016 came with it on the walls. I would like to match what I already have

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[Garandman]

Bought my flanged track from US Cargo Control. There's a profile drawing on the page. 0.6" high and 1.97" wide.


https://www.uscargocontrol.com/96-Flanged-Airline-Style-Track-Aluminum

 

[dynaco1]

Has anyone found a domestic source for OEM-style flanged L track? Or, the style Adventure Van sells?

I'd like to use the factory holes in the belt-level, which are spaced roughly 15-3/4" and 16-3/4" (alternating).

 

[elemental]

Has anyone found a domestic source for OEM-style flanged L track? Or, the style Adventure Van sells?

I *think* Adventure Wagon uses Mac's VersaTie track.

 

[julie777]

I *think* Adventure Wagon uses Mac's VersaTie track.

Yes they do, but they call it RUV track just to confuse things.

 

[wtofd]

Has anyone found a domestic source for OEM-style flanged L track? Or, the style Adventure Van sells?

I'd like to use the factory holes in the belt-level, which are spaced roughly 15-3/4" and 16-3/4" (alternating).

Did you have any luck? I am interested if the factory holes worked. I think this could be drilled to accommodate whatever spacing you needed.

 

[JUSTAGUY]

I got my track from Mac's. They drilled the holes to my specs
Or, you can get the track without holes and drill your own

 

[CheckMax]

Ugh - never ending details.
Good discussion here but I haven't seen any strong opinions on material or sizing for that matter.
1) I am seeing Plusnuts in zinc and stainless. Any preferences? Stainless risks galling but I am guessing this is a non-issue for most interior van uses other than someone really cranking down on the insert.
2) My preference is to keep the bolts metric, preferably an allen head. Is 1 inch long enough? I am thinking yes. I have decided to use Versatrack which is marginally thinner than the other products.
3) Finally - where does someone source these items? I have had luck with Grainger and Amazon for imperial hardware. Are the eBay vendors reliable?
Thanks in advance

 

[Hodakaguy]

We installed a lot of L-track in our build, basically making our own version of the awesome Adventure Wagon interior. I have a couple pages worth of details on installing the track and fabricating the braces behind the track on my build thread here: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/85562/

Hodakaguy

 

[220629]

My opinions.

...
1) I am seeing Plusnuts in zinc and stainless. Any preferences? Stainless risks galling but I am guessing this is a non-issue for most interior van uses other than someone really cranking down on the insert.

For interior use I see no advantage for ss inserts. They are more expensive and as you mention can gall.

2) My preference is to keep the bolts metric, preferably an allen head. Is 1 inch long enough? I am thinking yes. I have decided to use Versatrack which is marginally thinner than the other products.

If you think it is critical (I'm not so certain it is), you may have a problem with the angle of the countersunk pre-drilled track. It is not standard. 1" long enough for what? For using with bulb head inserts? Probably ok as long as you have clearance/depth behind. I would include some thru bolts where convenient.

I'm not Inertiaman.

It doesn't need to be all or nothing.

If I were installing L-track again I would use a combination of thru bolts and pop rivets or rivnuts. The through bolts with large backing washers would be installed where access is convenient. The pop rivets would fill in where access was not.

Keep in mind that the Mercedes OEM length of L-track is installed using only 3 ea. fasteners per length. Those 3 ea. fasteners are not just attached to body metal like rivnuts or pop rivets would be. They are fastened into reinforced areas, as are the OEM tie down rings.

A few proper thru bolts combined with pop rivets will make a strong installation.

vic

3) Finally - where does someone source these items? I have had luck with Grainger and Amazon for imperial hardware. Are the eBay vendors reliable?
Thanks in advance

McMaster-Carr is generally a good source.

If you attach to the ceiling ribs nut inserts or pop rivets are probably fine. The ceiling ribs are relatively light gauge steel and not really that strong. They depend upon shape and bonding the roof skin for strength.

vic

 

[Chronicpenguins]

Great idea. Just don’t forget that some of us use it not only on the floor, but walls and ceilings, too!

Cheers,
Greg

How did you attach the l track to the roof ribs? I put some rivnuts in the existing holes, but it doesnt match the 4" width of the l track

 

[gltrimble]

How did you attach the l track to the roof ribs? I put some rivnuts in the existing holes, but it doesnt match the 4" width of the l track

You can purchase undrilled L-Track and drill holes as needed. I used 5/16” Rivnuts to attach L-Track to the ceiling ribs.

 

[Fletch9871]

One of these will save a ton of time and produce aesthetically pleasing results. Click.

Keep Rolling...Chris

 

[CThompsonX2]

rivnuts in the existing holes

5/16” Rivnuts to attach L-Track to the ceiling ribs

I don't want to get off track here but for you guys using the existing roof rib holes, are you boring them out to allow for a larger rivnut/plus nut?
In my '23 144 the holes are too small for my M5/6/8 hardware and I'm a little concerned about ripping that hole apart to make it larger, it usually doesn't end well...

 

[Chronicpenguins]

I don't want to get off track here but for you guys using the existing roof rib holes, are you boring them out to allow for a larger rivnut/plus nut?
In my '23 144 the holes are too small for my M5/6/8 hardware and I'm a little concerned about ripping that hole apart to make it larger, it usually doesn't end well...

I used 1/4 20 rivnuts so widen the existing hole to 3/8. It’s not much of a size difference

 

[JIB]

I don't want to get off track here but for you guys using the existing roof rib holes, are you boring them out to allow for a larger rivnut/plus nut?
In my '23 144 the holes are too small for my M5/6/8 hardware and I'm a little concerned about ripping that hole apart to make it larger, it usually doesn't end well...

Use a stepped drill. I opened up holes as needed, all over my van for Plus Nuts in both 1/4 and 5/16ths. The stepped drill is quick and easy, even the Harbor Freight one held up amazingly well.

Don't forget to get some paint, etc. on the raw metal surfaces before you close it all up.

Jack

 

[gltrimble]

I don't want to get off track here but for you guys using the existing roof rib holes, are you boring them out to allow for a larger rivnut/plus nut?
In my '23 144 the holes are too small for my M5/6/8 hardware and I'm a little concerned about ripping that hole apart to make it larger, it usually doesn't end well...

Most of my holes, all 5/16” Rivnuts, do not use existing factory holes. I also used undrilled L-Track on the ceiling so holes are positioned directly over crossmembers.