NCV3 Cheap Tricks - Y'all need 'em too!

dodgy

Member
TRANSMISSION CAP REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING THE LOCKING TAB

just a tip for getting your transmission cap off without breaking the security clip.
using the bent end of a scriber slip it up under the cap with the square end of the cap up the top and gently pull the scriber towards you at the same time pull up on the locking tab.

Pic here.

 

220629

Well-known member
Cabin Fan Blower running with ignition key switch off.

Pull a fuse to stop.
Thanks for the reply, Autostaretx.

I realize I should of provided some more data. It is a 2012 3500. It is fuse space #12 in the panel under the dash by the obd port. It is a 30A fuse.

Thank you,
-Andrew
It ended up just being a faulty blower motor resistor on the actual blower motor assembly. Replaced that and I am good to go.

Cheers,
-A
The thread has additional information. Thanks goes to all contributors.

vic
 

220629

Well-known member
Not a Cheap Trick, but possible cost avoidance.

Fuel heater/water sensor fuse location

Thanks goes to Jbernielh. :thumbup:

well hopefully this will help some poor owner some grief in the future..

using the mitchell manual wiring diagram for my vehicle was absolutely useless.. if anything, it was detrimental.. actually took me down the proverbial garden path.. I went to my local MB dealer and they were good enough to let me look at the MB wiring diagram and it was no better, same errors as the mitchell.. by errors I mean, wire markings, inaccurate locations and many errors and omissions..

In my head scratching I wondered why the 12 volt feed to the water sensor in the fuel filter was a much larger gauge than the 12 volt feed to other sensors in the engine bay.. then my epiphany.. they use a larger gauge because the water sensor may have a heater element in it as well, depending on the vehicle.. no harm in using a large gauge for just a sensor, that way that wire can be used with either application..

now the kicker..

looking through my mitchell download I go to the service bulletins.. under fuel, I find one that says "fuel heater fuse location"... hmmmmm I think, it doesn't say "moisture sensor" but if my epiphany says they use the same wire maybe, just maybe... so the bulletin goes on to say this fuse location is not marked in any manuals but it is located under the drivers seat and shows a picture.. soooooo out comes the drivers seat and lo and behold a fuse holder with no fuse.. looking closer I find the fuse laying down in the bowels below the drivers seat.. not only that, the spades are bent over 90 degree's..

I don't know about the regular van seats, but the fancy swivel leather buckets in the wife's RV must weigh about 75 lbs.. the cover over the electrical bay is made from a soft foam sheet.. no strength at all.. very easy to see some one humping that heavy seat up onto the pedestal and a corner of the mount nailing the fuse over 90 degree's and popping it straight out of the holder.. and voila, you have an ongoing fault code for the fuel heater/moisture sensor..

just to reiterate one of Dennis's comments..

vehicle comes into shop.. code says internal fault fuel heater/moisture sensor.. what do you do? replace the internal fault sensor and clear the code and send the vehicle on it's way.. don't bother to find the root cause.. in this case, it only would have taken a few minutes to ensure there was power to the sensor.. which there was not.. in my case, if they had, it wouldn't have cost me 200 bucks to replace a sensor that was probably just fine..

I suspect there's many a shop/individual that has no idea where that fuse is.. I certainly found it by chance.. according to the service bulletin it's position is not marked anywhere.. that along with it being easily dislodged with seat removal/installation I'm surprised it's not more common..

hopefully this will help somebody at some point..

Bernie
 

220629

Well-known member
Brake turn signal not working

A problem and possible fix for NCV3 rear lamp issues. So far it seems to be in RV models for Sprinters, but the "fix" shows it does have some history in MB models in general.

My bet is that the fix relates to a lamp monitor design flaw.

Interesting. The green wire used as an aux ground hints at a USA fix. MB or another Euro manufacturer would probably stick with brown wire for ground.

The lamp faults relate to either poor grounding somewhere, or possibly that the lamp monitor circuit negatively affects the intended ground path. (Pun intended.)

That unit is a simple pass through connector.

Mercedes w164 Tail Lamp harness REPAIR Kit

View attachment 93539

Added:
Assuming that the lamp socket is ok.

A cheap and easy copy of that fancy in-line connector would be to tap the brown socket ground wire and add your own aux ground. Saves time and money.

A Scotchlok tap would probably be perfect! :eek:

View attachment 93538
(Some people hate those taps.)

A simple test procedure would be to add a Scotchlok tap wire and ground lug. If the added ground doesn't correct the problem(s) remove it from the frame and isolate/tape it off until next problem.

Adding an aux ground may defeat the lamp monitor circuit if that is a concern. It depends upon what fails. (Losing the lamp monitor wouldn't be a concern for me. See below.)

:cheers: vic

Off topic.
We had a 1991 Toyota Celica that we loved. Mostly very reliable. The brake lamp circuit failed. I traced the problem to a undersized burned connection within a brake lamp monitor module. The module was expensive so not worth the price for the older Toyota. I bypassed the module. Problem solved. It seemed ironic that the safety lamp monitor caused my problem.
Clicking on the blue arrow icon will take you to the original post/thread and more detail.
 
Last edited:

Benoni

New member
Possible Relay Substitutes for NCV3 (and T1N) Sprinters

Some NCV3 specific relay information by position numbers and function is listed below. Function/position should be verified because it can vary vehicle to vehicle depending upon options ordered from the factory.

The information that I provide here is a bit jumbled. Sorry, but I'm not inclined to do any more organization. Even just this information took some time to put together.


https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=221060#post221060

General information: It appears that the starter relay in the T1N models is a one only position. In the NCV3 models it appears that the high amp relay is used in multiple (not all) positions.
**************************************
Misc. Relay Information (It is not as easy to identify suitable relay numbers as one would think. :bash:)

MB A0025427419
(High current large blades)

MB A0025427419
MOPAR 05101505AB
Desciption: RELAY

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=53999#post53999

BOSCH 0332204151
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...f=0332204151&gclid=CJnK1cmw2bYCFc1DMgodm0MA9Q

Relay # A0025422619
(Looks like high current large blades by one eBay listing picture, Amazon, and smallfleetparts?)

Other Part Number: 05120360AA, 5120360AA
Manufacturer Part Number: 002 542 26 19
Interchange Part Number: A0025422619
Stock Code 05120360AA ; 05103552AA; 05120358AA; 05129608AA

http://www.smallfleetparts.com/Relay-Multi-Function-2002-2012/dp/B007JY6TZU
Reference #'s: 002 542 26 19 28 & 05120360AA

http://www.amazon.com/Relay-Multi-Function-2002-2012/dp/B007JY6TZU

An NCV3 specific post that lists the relays at the driver position. Verify function for your vehicle because positions can change as to options ordered from the factory.


http://www.motorhomefacts.com/mo/po...pe=html&topic_id=122907&index=3&topic_index=0
I am troubleshooting an intermittent no-start condition on my 2007 NCV3 and picked up replacement relays from Seattle MB.

For the starter relay - position #5 - replacement, they gave me:
part number A0009828123
Made in China (instead of Portugal as others are noted), manufacture date 2023-01-30.

Mentioning here because I didn't see that part number listed previously.

I'll post back here once replacements are installed
 

Benoni

New member
I am troubleshooting an intermittent no-start condition on my 2007 NCV3 and picked up replacement relays from Seattle MB.

For the starter relay - position #5 - replacement, they gave me:
part number A0009828123
Made in China (instead of Portugal as others are noted), manufacture date 2023-01-30.

Mentioning here because I didn't see that part number listed previously.

I'll post back here once replacements are installed
For position #6, MB provided:
part number A0035421619

I have now replaced relays in positions 5, 6, 7, 8.

I have not experienced the no-start condition since these replacements. It is still early but pleased with the results so far.
 

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