famof8
Famof8 + 1 = Famof9!
After combing the board, contemplating the ease of Seek's Hidden Hitch install, and debating on the design of the different add-on hitches, I settled on the Curt Class III Hitch for my 140" Passenger Sprinter. I like the fact the Curt design has am extra set of bolts at the front of the hitch to distribute the load better.
As others have stated, the Curt Class III is rated for 6,000 lbs trailer weight with 600 lbs of tongue weight or when equipped with a weight distribution hitch, 10,000 lbs trailer weight and 1000 lbs of tongue weight. Both are over the Sprinter's recommended max tow capacity. I have heard others recommend installing the Class IV since it is just a few bucks more. I figured the III is overkill, why do I need the IV.
When it arrived this afternoon I was glad that I ordered the Class III and not the IV as this baby is HUGE! I could not imagine the additional size of the tubing and braces for the IV. The Class III receiver tube juts out about 6.5" from the bumper. If you have the rear step bumper, no problem, it will cover it similarly to Seek's pictures of his Hidden Hitch. If you do not have the rear step bumper (I do not), then be prepared to bump/scrape your knees and shins.
Overall, the hitch was easy to install and includes all of the necessary parts required. I do recommend having an extra set of hands available, especially during templating and installation. The hitch does require drilling two new holes and enlarging two existing holes (two on the driver's side beam and identical on the passenger side beam.) Drilling the frame was easily accomplished with a 1-1/8" Uni-Bit (step bit). You must then fish (included) a carriage bolt and associated brace into the enlarged 1-1/8" holes, across the existing bolt paths in the frame and out the new 9/16" diameter holes. Patience is a virtue for this part! I used an extra piece of wire I had laying around to simplify the fish process. Once the wire is through, put the bolt and brace on the included fish and tape the free end to the piece of wire. Pull through while working the brace into the hole so it will lay in the proper position when installed (short end at rear of truck). I was able to complete this process in about 10 minutes. A word of caution... be certain that you go between the bolt paths and not below or above them. The carriage bolt will not fit through unless you are in the middle. I know from experience. It sucks to pull out and try again once the bolt and brace are in the 1-1/8" hole. With the carriage bolts in place, lift the hitch into position and place the included spacer plates between the hitch supports and the frame. The spacer will need to have a corner removed if you have the step bumper. The brace is prepared to make this alteration. I found it helpful to install one bolt in each side of the frame to support the hitch while I installed the nuts on the carriage bolts. Be sure not to push these bolts back into the frame during this period. Finish installing the remaining bolts, washers, and nuts. Tighten each to the described torque and relish in the delight of a job well done!
I will be posting pictures of this process within the next few days.
As others have stated, the Curt Class III is rated for 6,000 lbs trailer weight with 600 lbs of tongue weight or when equipped with a weight distribution hitch, 10,000 lbs trailer weight and 1000 lbs of tongue weight. Both are over the Sprinter's recommended max tow capacity. I have heard others recommend installing the Class IV since it is just a few bucks more. I figured the III is overkill, why do I need the IV.
When it arrived this afternoon I was glad that I ordered the Class III and not the IV as this baby is HUGE! I could not imagine the additional size of the tubing and braces for the IV. The Class III receiver tube juts out about 6.5" from the bumper. If you have the rear step bumper, no problem, it will cover it similarly to Seek's pictures of his Hidden Hitch. If you do not have the rear step bumper (I do not), then be prepared to bump/scrape your knees and shins.
Overall, the hitch was easy to install and includes all of the necessary parts required. I do recommend having an extra set of hands available, especially during templating and installation. The hitch does require drilling two new holes and enlarging two existing holes (two on the driver's side beam and identical on the passenger side beam.) Drilling the frame was easily accomplished with a 1-1/8" Uni-Bit (step bit). You must then fish (included) a carriage bolt and associated brace into the enlarged 1-1/8" holes, across the existing bolt paths in the frame and out the new 9/16" diameter holes. Patience is a virtue for this part! I used an extra piece of wire I had laying around to simplify the fish process. Once the wire is through, put the bolt and brace on the included fish and tape the free end to the piece of wire. Pull through while working the brace into the hole so it will lay in the proper position when installed (short end at rear of truck). I was able to complete this process in about 10 minutes. A word of caution... be certain that you go between the bolt paths and not below or above them. The carriage bolt will not fit through unless you are in the middle. I know from experience. It sucks to pull out and try again once the bolt and brace are in the 1-1/8" hole. With the carriage bolts in place, lift the hitch into position and place the included spacer plates between the hitch supports and the frame. The spacer will need to have a corner removed if you have the step bumper. The brace is prepared to make this alteration. I found it helpful to install one bolt in each side of the frame to support the hitch while I installed the nuts on the carriage bolts. Be sure not to push these bolts back into the frame during this period. Finish installing the remaining bolts, washers, and nuts. Tighten each to the described torque and relish in the delight of a job well done!
I will be posting pictures of this process within the next few days.
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